ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Is there no way of telling if the engine is in good nick from the photos then?
Click to expand...

Some things you can see on a picture, some you cant.
Cracked pistons and heads are fairly easy to see, other things you really need to feel it, and use measuring instruments.

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Took the cylinder head to the local engine place today who specialise in rebuilds and cylinder heads to have the glow plug thread repaired.

The bloke was trying to talk me into having the head skimmed, he said it's a better job if you do? I didn't buy it to be honest, as the workshop manual says different. But I had the engineer put a straight edge on it, and he said it's pretty flat and not warped.

What's your opinion on this chaps? Skim or no skim
Click to expand...

I don't have much to do with alloy heads. Cast I never skim, unless it is very bad.

Best opinion on that one would be @jamesmartin , I think.
 
rogerboy said:
I think you should always skim ,it is the professional way to do it ,they are only making sure your head is true,(flat) and get it pressure tested for cracks internally .
Click to expand...

I certainly wouldn't say that is true with iron head.

Alloy is more likely to benefit from skimming, but every time you skim it, you are removing metal, it can only go so far. So why use one up if it isn't really needed?
 
Turboman said:
I certainly wouldn't say that is true with iron head.

Alloy is more likely to benefit from skimming, but every time you skim it, you are removing metal, it can only go so far. So why use one up if it isn't really needed?
Click to expand...
We are talking about alloy head, when a head is skimmed it is very minimal ,only enough to true the face,you also get a thicker head gasket in relation to how much it was machined off to true it up.
 
rogerboy said:
We are talking about alloy head, when a head is skimmed it is very minimal ,only enough to true the face,you also get a thicker head gasket in relation to how much it was machined off to true it up.
Click to expand...

Different head gaskets are to do with differing piston protrusion.

And as above, you can only skim it so many times.
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Took the cylinder head to the local engine place today who specialise in rebuilds and cylinder heads to have the glow plug thread repaired.

The bloke was trying to talk me into having the head skimmed, he said it's a better job if you do? I didn't buy it to be honest, as the workshop manual says different. But I had the engineer put a straight edge on it, and he said it's pretty flat and not warped.

What's your opinion on this chaps? Skim or no skim
Click to expand...
looks a good head only skim if its warped or has damage ie fire ring has worn a groove ,pistons arent a 100% round till they get hot, theres no sign of cracks as theres no sign of coolant wash on head face
 
Thank you all very much for your replies. Sorry I've been late replying.

Pleased to hear the head looks good from you experts, I'll avoid the head skim I think as it looks good.

Going to be removing the sump at some point in the next week. Other than clean it out, anything I should inspect while in there?
 
Right chaps. Bit of an update, actually feel like I'm kind of rebuilding this engine now haha.
Removed the sump today, oil was well overdue a change that came out.

Anyway, removed the big end shells, off all 4 conrods. They look pretty good to me, but I'm no expert.


I took James' advise and checked the top shells as apparently they get the most wear. The top look no worse than the bottom to my untrained eye.

Now I'm this far, should I replace the shells. Why do I have to use new conrod nuts?

I then removed the main bearing cap on No.3. Again from the recommendation of JM, I'm led to believe the bottom shell wears the most. So just inspecting the bottom should be good enough to get an idea of the condition. This looks slightly worn to me....



What do you guys think? The engine has done 150k miles. Anything else I should do while in there?

Many thanks
 
I would say there is visible wear on those, but I am pretty fussy. And I take an engine apart once in a month of Sundays.
James is on it all the time, and may know better.

Have you tried to measure the wear, possibly using plastigauge etc?

I cant remember why you need new nuts, probably because they deform when they reach the specified torque. But if it says replace them in the instructions, do it.
 
Turboman said:
I would say there is visible wear on those, but I am pretty fussy. And I take an engine apart once in a month of Sundays.
James is on it all the time, and may know better.

Have you tried to measure the wear, possibly using plastigauge etc?

I cant remember why you need new nuts, probably because they deform when they reach the specified torque. But if it says replace them in the instructions, do it.
Click to expand...

Cheers for your reply again turboman.

Would you replace the big end shells with new standard size shells then. Originals are out on bench anyway. Is kings bearings a good make for the shells?

I haven't done any measuring in all fairness. I have got a micrometer set but that's it. The shells are only cheap though so I spose there's no point even measuring them.

Thanks.
 
Turboman said:
I would say there is visible wear on those, but I am pretty fussy.
Click to expand...

Agreed - I'd replace them too - daft not too IMHO, whilst you are able to.

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
The shells are only cheap though so I spose there's no point even measuring them.
Click to expand...

Measuring shells can be a good idea when you are looking at failure for an unknown reason, and for maintenance of high specific power output engines like race cars. In our "world", its not really necessary IME - though, you might like to try it just for the experience..

What are the crank journals like - any piccies of them?
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Right chaps. Bit of an update, actually feel like I'm kind of rebuilding this engine now haha.
Removed the sump today, oil was well overdue a change that came out.

Anyway, removed the big end shells, off all 4 conrods. They look pretty good to me, but I'm no expert.


I took James' advise and checked the top shells as apparently they get the most wear. The top look no worse than the bottom to my untrained eye.

Now I'm this far, should I replace the shells. Why do I have to use new conrod nuts?

I then removed the main bearing cap on No.3. Again from the recommendation of JM, I'm led to believe the bottom shell wears the most. So just inspecting the bottom should be good enough to get an idea of the condition. This looks slightly worn to me....



What do you guys think? The engine has done 150k miles. Anything else I should do while in there?

Many thanks
Click to expand...
Congratulations - you've dug deep enough and found a problem. Those shells are showing signs of wear.

As mentioned above replacing with new is the way to go. Before you do, however, measuring the crankshaft journals is necessary. Check the specifications in the workshop manual - measure at at least three different positions on the journals.

When you come to fit new shells (if the journals are still OK) use this stuff =>

http://plastigauge.co.uk/

To measure the bearing clearance to make sure everything is still in spec.

##########

Back to the head - have you looked at the valve seats for damage yet?
 
Disco1BFG said:
Agreed - I'd replace them too - daft not too IMHO, whilst you are able to.



Measuring shells can be a good idea when you are looking at failure for an unknown reason, and for maintenance of high specific power output engines like race cars. In our "world", its not really necessary IME - though, you might like to try it just for the experience..

What are the crank journals like - any piccies of them?
Click to expand...

Stretch said:
Congratulations - you've dug deep enough and found a problem. Those shells are showing signs of wear.

As mentioned above replacing with new is the way to go. Before you do, however, measuring the crankshaft journals is necessary. Check the specifications in the workshop manual - measure at at least three different positions on the journals.

When you come to fit new shells (if the journals are still OK) use this stuff =>

http://plastigauge.co.uk/

To measure the bearing clearance to make sure everything is still in spec.

##########

Back to the head - have you looked at the valve seats for damage yet?
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input, it's really appreciated.

I'm glad asked, as they looked not far off new to me. Is this sort of wear anything to worry about?

I take it, I can measure the crank in position, and if it's within tolerance I can fit new 'standard' big end shells.. Correct??

What should I do about the main bearings/shells? I didn't fancy taking the timing cover off I've got to be honest.

I'll get some pictures of the crank journals tomorrow hopefully, although to me they look unmarked and perfect.

Regarding the cylinder head, I've received it back from the engine specialist today with a repaired glow plug thread. I was going to leave the valves, mainly due to it running so well and good compression figures, is that wrong? I didn't want to disturb them and then it smoke or run rough.
 
shells are very good for a used engine,it shows its been well serviced if it was mine id fit new shells,though those would run again, but 2 sets of shell is only 40 quid ,when it comes to the mains just fit bottom shell leave top in,saves disturbing cam belt, id replace valve stem seals if nothing else
 
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