Vote Kurt!
And also worn sensors.
If you have access to a Nanocom, you can watch the sensors as they sit in real time. Any jumping readings at any height then the track is worn and it's time to swop them for a new pair.
The pump will run with the doors/boot open or shut.
I agree vote @connectors Not for Kurt.Or connectors.
Hello, please can I ask for further help with my P38 cycling EAS, or dancing front end?
I've had massive improvements to the EAS since fitting Kurt's rebuilt valve block but some problems remain - mainly the cycling between the the compressor pumping the front end up, and then valves letting it down again. A complete cycle is perhaps 10 to 20 seconds and the cycling can last for any amount of time - but it can also stop!
I've plugged a Nanocom in and the live height readings do not fluctuate wildly, but by perhaps one digit ( 101 to 102 for example). During the cycling I can see the front end readings rise over perhaps 10 seconds, then the compressor switches off, the valve block clicks, the front falls over a couple of seconds, then the cycle starts again.
Because there is no wild fluctuations in the live height readings does this suggest that the height sensors (and connections) are sound?
The live readings show both the Lower Switch and Raise Switch remaining ON all the time. Is this correct?
The Park/Handbrake switch also remains ON, whether the handbrake is on or not.
The Valve Status on all valves are always CLOSED (although I may have seen one change to OPEN just once).
Any of the above suggest any problems to anyone?
I've never used a Nanocom (or any other fault code reader) before so this is a voyage of discovery for me, all suggestions welcome.
Happy New Year everyone, Cheers, Bertie
Couple of points to add:
- Front Left-Right target values should be within +/- 2bits of each other. Otherwise the ECU will try to adjust to targets, and after that op both front valves to equalise the front air bags. If the targets are too far out it causes cycling.
- To fix it put the car on blocks, and carefully bend the sensor brackets to get the bit values equal.
I'll start with the recording if I can find a record button on the Nanocom,
Good morning, and once again, many thanks for all your suggestions. It's snowing and -4 deg C here so I haven't done all the suggested tests yet but these are the results of some:
1) The cycling stops when a door is open.
2) I reset the height settings from Front Left 101 and Right 106, and Rear Left 110 and Right 102 to an average of the left and right - 103 both front and 106 both rear. The cycling continued and the actual heights shown on the Nanocom became:
Front left 98 - 101 (target 103)
Front right 106 - 109 (target 103)
Rear left 106 - 107 (target 106)
Rear right 107 - 108 (target 106)
So, the actual heights shown on the Nanocom for the front two wheels were 2 to 4 digits below target on the left and 3 to 6 digits above target on the right. These actuals were in fact little changed from readings given before the set heights were changed. They didn't change to follow the new settings.
The rear actual reading however changed to match the new settings. Could this suggest duff front sensors? I'll have to remove them to check resistance as soon as the weather warms a bit.
3) The handbrake light on the dashboard goes on and off as the handbrake is raised and dlowered.. But the live reading on the Nanocom says handbrake ON at all times. Any suggestions on how this could be checked.
4) Finally, when I first started the car this morning, the suspension had dropped a little overnight and would not rise - doors open or closed. Normally it rises almost immediately. After five minutes I pressed the "Raise" switch and it immediately rose to standard height. Could this suggest an electrical fault?
Phew, time for a coffee now.
Cheers, Bertie
Also if one corner raises it'll affect the opposing side and will influence the rears somewhat.Good morning, and once again, many thanks for all your suggestions. It's snowing and -4 deg C here so I haven't done all the suggested tests yet but these are the results of some:
1) The cycling stops when a door is open.
2) I reset the height settings from Front Left 101 and Right 106, and Rear Left 110 and Right 102 to an average of the left and right - 103 both front and 106 both rear. The cycling continued and the actual heights shown on the Nanocom became:
Front left 98 - 101 (target 103)
Front right 106 - 109 (target 103)
Rear left 106 - 107 (target 106)
Rear right 107 - 108 (target 106)
So, the actual heights shown on the Nanocom for the front two wheels were 2 to 4 digits below target on the left and 3 to 6 digits above target on the right. These actuals were in fact little changed from readings given before the set heights were changed. They didn't change to follow the new settings.
The rear actual reading however changed to match the new settings. Could this suggest duff front sensors? I'll have to remove them to check resistance as soon as the weather warms a bit.
3) The handbrake light on the dashboard goes on and off as the handbrake is raised and dlowered.. But the live reading on the Nanocom says handbrake ON at all times. Any suggestions on how this could be checked.
4) Finally, when I first started the car this morning, the suspension had dropped a little overnight and would not rise - doors open or closed. Normally it rises almost immediately. After five minutes I pressed the "Raise" switch and it immediately rose to standard height. Could this suggest an electrical fault?
Phew, time for a coffee now.
Cheers, Bertie