Bife

Bife

Active Member
Hi,

I've recently taken the prop off of my new to me 2001 Td4 5-Door (it has mismatched tyres with new ones on front, it doesn't get very icy in Lisbon, it felt a bit tight in reverse on full lock, to be safe, my choice etc)

Afterwards (it was probably there before I took prop off as well) I have noticed a slight clicking/clacking (more clicking than clacking) noise from front sometimes on full lock at low speeds under load, which I think is (are) outer C.V. joint(s). It happens more on left lock, so I think this means its probably the RHS joint.

Does that sound right?
Outer rather than inner?

If so, then how much should I pay for a CV joint?
I have seen prices after a quick search online of between £35 & £160
Is this something that should be Land Rover?
I just drive on the road, even if they are Lisbon roads.

Also, is this something that I should do at once, or can I wait a couple of pay checks?

Cheers

Leigh
 
CVJ - best to buy OEM or know reputable brands if possible. Cheap eBay parts have been known to last a very short time. LR parts have a 2 year? return to supplier warranty and can cost the Earth.

VCU test = OWUT [one wheel up test]. Do it with the prop' shaft on, h' brake off and in neutral. Search on here to find links to video or on youTube... Time it to check VCU condition, a time of around 30 seconds from 45º to horizontal is good, 2 + minutes is bad.
 
Outer CV joints don't normally fail. The inner VC generally fails first.
If it is the outer joint, then buy OE joints only. There are many instances where cheap joints cause more problems than they solve.
 
Thanks mucho,
Been driving around last few days and it very rarely does it, and only then on a very steep ful lock corner, so I will keep an eye and do it in the nearish future
I will also carefully check gaiters beforehand
A genuine Q: If it only happens on full lock, isnt this when the outer one is at a large angle (the inner only for up and down change of axis) so it is probably outer?
Also, why do inners fail first?
Like I said, I'm not arguing, just always interested in learning.
Also, what is the deal with OEM LR, cheap? How does that fit into the 'patent' parts as opposed to main dealer parts as I remember from being a student holiday worker in my dad's garage in the mid 80's?
 
I've often wondered why its the inner ones that go, but the feedback on here is that it is the inners that fail first.

The feedback is also that aftermarket drive shafts are often terrible and worse than the old ones coming off!

You also need to make sure you get the right drive shaft for the car, there are different ones - I know the ABS reluctors changed, not sure if there are other differences between model years and engines.

You should also be careful because if the inner CV is failing, they are known to damage their support bearing in the IRD which can take out the IRD itself.

OEM, LR should be essentially the same part, just with different labels and possibly different guarantees. Aftermarket are from other manufacturers but should serve the same purpose - in reality they may use different materials or even be not very good copies - it is a gamble. I'm sure some Bearmach parts are great, but I put one of their engine mounts on my Freelander, but it was so bad and had to take it off again and put the original back on.
 
The inner joint wears first because it's a different type of joint from the outer joint. There are two basic types of CV joints in common use.
The outer joint is a true constant velocity (CV) joint. "ball-and groove" CV joints (Rzeppa joint after the inventor).
Rzeppa CV joints, which are used as the outer joints on many FWD cars consist of a cup shaped outer housing, a centre race and cage assembly. These joints allow large angular changes and provide a constant velocity, hence the name CV. They have 6 steel balls running tightly in the housing, giving a large torque handling surface. Providing they have always had the correct lubrication and no contaminants, they have a very long life.

The inner joints are a modification of the more traditional UJ or universal joint. These are called tripod joints. The inner joints doesn't need to handle large angular changes, but does need to allow for some compression and extension of the driveshaft. This is where the tripod joint is useful. It has 3 bearing supported trunnions that run in 3 grooves. The trunnions allow for angular movements, while the grooves allow the trunnions to slide in and out. The shape of the trunnions and the fact that there's only 3 of them, gives a small total contact area, hence the higher wear rate.
 
Next question:
Why would an inner joint only make noise on full lock? Something to do with it being more extended or retracted on full lock?
 
Bife said:
Next question:
Why would an inner joint only make noise on full lock? Something to do with it being more extended or retracted on full lock?
Click to expand...

Possibly. But normally a failing inner joint causes vibration felt through the gear stick when accelerating.

Does the clicking joint have an original boot, or a replacement.
 
Will have a look when I get a chance.
Actually, I think I have a noise from both sides.
It seems to becoming from outer edges of front (subjective I know).
Will also have to investigate to see if I can feel any vibrations from gear stick.
 
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