Nicktrackside
Active Member
Don't replace the drive shaft nut with a Britpart on as it is 36 mm. A 36mm socket won't go through the wheel.
Didn't even get that far.
The damn hub-nut is seized. Tried heating it with gas-burner. Tried Plusgas. Damn thing is stuck solid! Has no stake through it either. Someone has just bashed in the rim into the slot. Bashed out again with a centre punch but that nut isn't moving! Sprayed more Plusgas on while I think.
Any ideas?
The damn hub-nut is seized. Tried heating it with gas-burner. Tried Plusgas. Damn thing is stuck solid! Has no stake through it either. Someone has just bashed in the rim into the slot. Bashed out again with a centre punch but that nut isn't moving! Sprayed more Plusgas on while I think.
Any ideas?
Stronger wrenching bar, longer handle on it. Steady pressure. I would be using a 3/4" socket set on that.
Castor
Trainee maniac
We routinely had nuts on a leyland truck to undo years back - the standard method became:-
- put 3/4" extension bar on,
- load that until it bends a bit by lowering a fork truck tines onto it and
- leave overnight.
I have also achieved similar results by replacing the fork truck with the wife.
I have found that anything can be undone. But it does depend entirely on the length of scaffolding bar used.
Those nuts are staked by 'bashing the rim in to the slot' so that's correct. Make sure you bend the stake out again before you start undoing.
Then you need a breaker bar, and maybe a scaffold bar to slip over the breaker bar, and me to stand on the end whilst you steady everything.
I'll bring mine tomorrow.
Then you need a breaker bar, and maybe a scaffold bar to slip over the breaker bar, and me to stand on the end whilst you steady everything.
I'll bring mine tomorrow.
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you dont need to bend stake back undoing nut will straighten it
Well, I had a 2 foot bar with my weight on it after bashing out the "stake" with a centre punch. Nothing.
Nipped round my local Indie who very kindly stuck his air-gun on it and got it off on the third attempt. He then said he'd do it up for me again when I'd finished if I brought it back. Very kind of him! When I said shouldn't it be torqued to 280Nm he just said "don't know about that, we just use the airgun and hammer it as high as it will go." Hmmmm.
Anyway, job done. Not as bad as I feared. Major panic at one stage when I saw the split washer lying on the ground having reassembled everything. Fortunately it turned out to be a new one that came with the CV boot. I'd definitely recommend the cable-tie over the jubilee clip!
Nipped round my local Indie who very kindly stuck his air-gun on it and got it off on the third attempt. He then said he'd do it up for me again when I'd finished if I brought it back. Very kind of him! When I said shouldn't it be torqued to 280Nm he just said "don't know about that, we just use the airgun and hammer it as high as it will go." Hmmmm.
Anyway, job done. Not as bad as I feared. Major panic at one stage when I saw the split washer lying on the ground having reassembled everything. Fortunately it turned out to be a new one that came with the CV boot. I'd definitely recommend the cable-tie over the jubilee clip!
All done. I've got a short length of scaffold pole but the breaker bar was bending like a banana and I didn't think it'd take much more.
Did the brake calipers too.
Only thing left to do before the MoT test is adjust that damn handbrake. I cannot imagine the pads wear out so cable must be stretched. I'll try to adjust the shoes first, of course.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
i think youll find very few use a torque wrench on stuff like that .and you never find a loose nut
