teddywood1 said:

I made my own roof rack and then I had it plastic coated at a cost of £30 and then I put 4 hella 9ins/23cms on it the brackets I had welded onto to it in the planning

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Nodge68 said:

HIDs will give you less light on the road that proper bulbs. This is because the lens can't focus the light. It allows light to simply scatter in all directions, little where it's needed. Here in the UK, HIDs in standard lights are also illegal.
If you want more dip power, and don't mind about legalities, fit Osram 65 Watt H7. They still work correctly so will pass vehicle tests and produce much more light than standard H7 bulbs.

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FlyingPete said:

You definitely want a dedicated spot light unit. A lot of them seem to be sold as "fog/spot light" or something similar but the two are actually very different things. Something with a focused beam, mounted high up would give you great long-range lighting.

The roof rack looks great

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Nodge68 said:

These are a reasonably priced upgrade bulb.
http://m.lightinthebox.com/en/2pcs-...ar-headlight-halogen-auto-lamps_p3318985.html
These should provide about 2000 lumens instead of the 1300 to 1500 of the standard H7.
Or here's the Osram Rally Amazon product
These kick out over 2100 lumens of light.
If used as a dip bulb, then I'd add a relay to feed the bulbs. This gives them maximum light without risk to the factory wiring.

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gstuart said:

I found that out when like an idiot I originally fitted the spots and fogs the wrong way round , lol

do like the LED bars , look very neat as well tucked away , seen some fitted in the lower grill valance

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Zejmjien said:

Thanks! They're in next month's list haha I think I'd go for the 2k ones though as I got enough people flashing back at me as I am without trying to be 'in your face'. My intention is good visibility not blinding anyone
it's the reason why I want a bar though I have to admit, them filament lamps do light up better I think

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Nodge68 said:

Lighting is all about accurate beam focus. The Freelander's headlights are reflector focused units. This means that the reflector is shaped to direct the light from the source (filament) to where it's needed. When the light source is undefined, like that of an LED or HID element then the reflector can't accurately direct the beam as intended. This makes a filament lamp (bulb) better where tight beam control is needed.
Both other light sources (LED and HID) require a focusing optional lens to direct the light in the correct direction. Without this lens the light simply spills in all directions. This gives very poor illumination of the road ahead and is dazzling for drivers coming in the opposite direction.
Fitting more powerful filament lamps into the standard headlight won't necessarily increase dazzle do other drivers but will increase light on the road.

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Zejmjien said:

That's some quality info right there, thanks mate will keep note of it for sure off to get the osrams haha

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Zejmjien said:

Am currently collecting all and when it is wiring day I will just start wiring all systems like crazy haha. Will get relays for lightbar too as I'd rather let it work freely

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Nodge68 said:

There's an auxiliary light switch available the fits in the switch panel to the outside of the steering wheel, above the fuse box cubby panel. I have a couple, ready for installation. The switches are avaliable in black or dark grey. I have one of each. I got the grey to check if it looked ok fitted. It costs a quater as much as the black switch but apart from a tiny colour difference, it's the same. There a connector available to attach the wiring to the switch too.
One thing I love about LR vehicles is the mix n match ability of components.

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Zejmjien said:

What I have in hand is this. I am looking for more switches like the one in place, then all I need is to somehow remove rhe print and print new symbols.

P.s. I think I might have hit jackpot. Check out the link below
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281988048671

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Nodge68 said:

Be careful with over exaggerated power outputs on these lights. The light linked does have lenses over the LED chips which should control the light better than the cheaper bars available. However my concern would be the claimed 390 Watts. That's a huge amount of dissipation in what is effectively a relatively small area. They claim to be using Phillips 5 Watt LED chips instead of the more usual 3 Watt Cree 5050 chips used. 5050 it simply the die size simply meaning 5mm X 5mm across.
It makes me wonder if they are either over driving the chips which will cut the life dramatically.
Be warned, there are fake Philips light bars on Ebay that aren't what the sellers claim. Many of these don't have high power 5050 chips at all. The reports I've seen recently showed some sellers are selling bars with 1 Watt 3030 chips but still claiming outputs of over 300 Watts.
I find it strange that the listing doesn't show the chips themselves without the front lense. This makes we wonder about the internal components used. Something doesn't look right in the close up picture of the lens. Use caution. When someone claims to be selling something that looks to good to be true, it usually is.

The switches you have are available cheaply if you look for them.

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teddywood1 said:

that is the parking sensors switch so you can turn them off.

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Nodge68 said:

There's an auxiliary light switch available the fits in the switch panel to the outside of the steering wheel, above the fuse box cubby panel. I have a couple, ready for installation. The switches are avaliable in black or dark grey. I have one of each. I got the grey to check if it looked ok fitted. It costs a quater as much as the black switch but apart from a tiny colour difference, it's the same. There a connector available to attach the wiring to the switch too.
One thing I love about LR vehicles is the mix n match ability of components.

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