Thanks. Going to plug back in...Nope, it's shut off in the software of the ECM.
Thanks. Going to plug back in...Nope, it's shut off in the software of the ECM.
But it still doesn't go so you have missed something. Needs proper diagnostics IMO.As a highly qualified IRTEC road transport engineer, workshop foreman and with 40+ years (yes... old skool with an absolute hate of all modern electrics etc... I trained with spanners...) My expertise lies within the HGV and agricultural sectors though and very different to cars. I am fully aware of a structured and linear approach to these things. I am also fully aware of likely causes, which often saves time and money to try those options first. Admittedly my diagnostic kit for home is a generic one, and only throws up general codes. P0088 in this case. Many of the things you have asked for don't seem to exist with this vehicle... fuel reset for a start. (According to the manual, there is no fuel reset, and it should start automatically) Every thing that needs to be tested etc has been... electrical readings etc and all fine. All new parts are fitted correctly, and timed correctly. All are brand new and genuine parts.
Have you looked at what P0088-nn actually means? it's overpressure.As a highly qualified IRTEC road transport engineer, workshop foreman and with 40+ years (yes... old skool with an absolute hate of all modern electrics etc... I trained with spanners...) My expertise lies within the HGV and agricultural sectors though and very different to cars. I am fully aware of a structured and linear approach to these things. I am also fully aware of likely causes, which often saves time and money to try those options first. Admittedly my diagnostic kit for home is a generic one, and only throws up general codes. P0088 in this case. Many of the things you have asked for don't seem to exist with this vehicle... fuel reset for a start. (According to the manual, there is no fuel reset, and it should start automatically) Every thing that needs to be tested etc has been... electrical readings etc and all fine. All new parts are fitted correctly, and timed correctly. All are brand new and genuine parts.
Advanced factors list and sell the sensor separately. Thanks for your help so far.the fuel pressure sensor is only available with the fuel rail, again, a significant cost.
Yep. That is on the list to look at too. As advised we are going to take the plunge and get a GAP IID tool. Have refrained before as often change our vehicles, and so our generic tool for all vehicles has always sufficed. However if can fix this issue may keep RR as its alright! Apart from not going!!! Also going to do the modification to the pressure sensor wiring harness. Won't cost us and rules it out.Camshaft sensor?
Not sure about RR, but a dodgy one on a TD4 will also low cranking but no ignition.
Absolutely! I have missed something, and scratching my head as to what. Proper diagnostics will def help, and so going to invest in a GAP IID tool. My generic one is great, and very useful for giving an idea. TBH I change cars quite regularly and so never invested in a specific one. Our Merc ones and JD ones at work are fantastic. Have a step by step guide to what you are doing and everything. They are manufacturer supplied only. Quite like this RR, and this is the first major issue in 3 years. If can sort this will probably keep for a while yet. Missus likes it for towing her horses too. While waiting for tool to arrive will do the mod of the pressure sensor wiring harness, as that won't cost me and at least can rule out. Wondering on the CKP too, but going to wait for tool...But it still doesn't go so you have missed something. Needs proper diagnostics IMO.
Camshaft sensors don’t tend to throw a code unless they are FUBAR.Yep. That is on the list to look at too. As advised we are going to take the plunge and get a GAP IID tool. Have refrained before as often change our vehicles, and so our generic tool for all vehicles has always sufficed. However if can fix this issue may keep RR as its alright! Apart from not going!!! Also going to do the modification to the pressure sensor wiring harness. Won't cost us and rules it out.
Please can you tell me more on that? We cant find where it would be or an option for it. GAP iid tool... ThanksPost #23 @Graculus, have you done the software reset mentioned in that post?
Not that we can find... looked in all the usual places and cant find one or find info on there actually being one...Do these have an inertia fuel cut-off switch under the bonnet?
You will not find it as a physical item, it will be a function of the software and will require appropriate diagnostics to perform a reset. @Graculus is the man who would know.Please can you tell me more on that? We cant find where it would be or an option for it. GAP iid tool... Thanks
What I meant was we cant find it as an option on our diagnostic tool. Or in which menu to look under. Hopefully someone can shed some light on that.You will not find it as a physical item, it will be a function of the software and will require appropriate diagnostics to perform a reset. @Graculus is the man who would know.
The HP fuel pump will shut down in the event of too high a pressure by means of closing off the fuel metering valve, there is also a non-return valve in the fuel line after the fuel cooler which may be blocked / restricted.
Dont think so. We did check, but they are all different sizes and so can really go on in one way. Besides, nothing had been touched before it cut out, so doesn't explain why it suddenly cut outPipes on the wrong way somewhere?
Haven't blanked off injectors yet, but that could def be something to try. Does seem unlikely though as fuel isn't getting there. Next week when off of nights... Did think about the non return valve too, and if that is open would allow fuel through... Spoke to LR today who are equally perplexed. They said we have done everything they would and they wont take it in to look at! Suggested a diesel specialist such as PB Asher.https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cranks-but-not-starting-2012-4-4-tdv8.396187/#post-5782280
It may also be simply fuel returning from the injector spill line which connects to the return, the non-return valve will require some pressure to actuate, removing the return line from the HPFP will cause that pressure to vent from the line there.
Have you tried blanking off the injectors at the fuel rails one at a time to see if one injector is excessively passing? there is a minimum requirement of 10 bar at cranking for the injectors to atomise sufficiently. I've seen a lot of Audi 3.0l V6 diesels brought to a halt by a defective fuel injector passing back to tank excessively, not many 4.4TDV8's though.