PopPops

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Today I was tracking the cause of an oil leak (probably rocker cover gasket) and gave the area thorough dousing with brake cleaner to get rid of all the oily mess so I could see the leak. Most oil was at the rear FPR side of the engine which got most brake cleaner, and all over the bell housing that side.

I then took it for a short drive to provoke the leak. Sometime into the drive the MIL light came on (it was off driving out the drive) but with no other symptoms, no hesitation, no misfires, just running like it always does.

At home put the Nanocom on it and it came up with a "crank speed high" error, or something like that, I forgot to photo it. Cleared the fault. Started again, no MIL, no fault. Been on a 30 minute drive and all OK. No idle speed error, no cylinder imbalance, all fine.

I don't believe in coincidences or faults which fix themselves, I've checked the CPS connector is on correctly. As far as I know the CPS is original, I've had the Disco for 6 years and I haven't changed it.

Any suggestions as to what provokes this error?

Thanks!
 
"crank speed high"..... Any suggestions as to what provokes this error?
Yes, the crank sensor's signal provokes it which can have various causes... as the sensor is very old you should start with that if you are up to pay genuine or at least premium branded one... going for unbranded or cheap aftermarket can be wasted small money without ruling it out.
 
it is probably the wiring or the plug not the actual sensor. its quite sensitive and cracks in the insulation would disrupt the signal if it gets wet. Pace 4x4 sells a complete wiring overlay (https://pace4x4.com/shop/ols/products/td5-crank-sensor-overlay) or you can make your own using a 3 core shielded cable and a new plug off ebay
Thank you for that, that’s useful information. When checking to see if the connector was properly seated, it seems the wiring was quite rigid.
 
Thank you for that, that’s useful information. When checking to see if the connector was properly seated, it seems the wiring was quite rigid.
mine once wouldnt start after cleaning the engine bay and noticed the wiring was a little cracked. gave it time to dry out and it started fine but i did replace the wiring and plug to try to avoid it in the future. removing the starter will make it considerably easier to work on it. i know i shouldnt advise this but i did not put the top nut of the starter back on cause i couldnt be bothered and its been fine for around 7 years its been like that
 

Similar threads