Hi all,

Hopefully I will soon be purchasing a 2003 air, auto, td5, 90,000 mile D2.
Edit: Update - This turned out to be a total dog. Rusted out interior doors barely opened. Liquid levels all low. No electrics worked. No thanks.

Now looking at an auto 2003 td5 150,000. But immaculate interior. Didn’t get to lift carpets up but v dry. Headliner amazing. Well looked after. ACE delete ( boo) air swapped for springs (boo). A bit of corrosion reported on back chassis but that’s it MOT wise. Before 2018 no advisories at all !!


I’m trying to budget the cost of things that will need doing soonish.

Would anybody be able to help with suggestions and priorities?

I have about £1,000 to try and fix it all. (If the missus doesn’t find out about it). I will not be off-roading it for awhile - other than muddy country lanes. And will be using it to commute 20/30 miles return, mon to Friday.

The things I’m thinking about are:

potential need for tyres matching across axels.(I suppose this and prop shaft/rear drive shaft bushels & brake fluid seals etc will depend on the actual state of the vehicle)

Air suspension bag replacement. Been advised that unless very very solid evidence that they have been replaced recently, replace them.

Cambelt. 90,000 will it need doing? Can I leave it 10,000 or is it super priority? Or does it depend on state of vehicle and you guys can’t really answer other than play it safe?

Gearbox service including flush (forgive my daftness but a “flush” will surely remove the danger I have read about of changing the autoGbox oil which then dislodges debris/gunk and actually causes problems where there weren’t any - doesn’t it?)

Rear diff oil change (hope to do this myself).

after this I’m kind of in the dark. Should I get a service? Or just try and change the oil filter myself? (As well as oil). Is there anything else a service will do I should be aware of? Or stop being cheap and just get a service? Pricey aren’t they?

I’m going to try and test the ABS and TC on the test drive (not sure how that will go down. For ABS will ask permission to try emergency stop. And will keep my eyes peeled for some loose road surface) in an attempt to see if the three amigos kick off? Is that silly? Should I prepare to deal with them soonish ? I’ve read they themselves can be upto a grand?

Will ACE be a very likely problem soon ? Or just something to keep an eye on. Is it mainly corroded pipes that causes the problems here? Maybe some “sensor stuff” too?

Will I need to get it “under sealed/waxoyl sealed” (same thing?) immediately. Or can that wait till Sept/Oct ?

Will I need to buy a nanocam? (South Drbysh any friendly local owners with one, hello!)

Thank you so much!!

Ps Should I just buy a Land Cruiser? (Please say no)

Td5 has cam chain not belt so you don't have to worry about that (chassis will rot out before thats a problem). Check the propshaft ujs by wobbling up and down/left to right, shouldn't be any play, front prop has double cardon joint thats a pig of a job to change the ujs if you've never done them before.
Engine service is easy (has 2 oil filters) the one behind the turbo is quite tight to get to. I use jgs 4x4 for the service kit was about £50/60 I think.
My disco had the ace deleted before I got it, the ace roll bars were still on so I replaced them with non ace ones. All the pipes were corroded on mine. Think the pump can overheat when you get problems.
Can't help on the auto box as mine is manual but did have the problem you mentioned on an older 4hp22 (rr classic box) in my 90 when I changed the oil in that. Wasn't fun sitting in first gear for a mile with a 6.2 V8 screaming its nackers off lol.
Don't want to put you off but have a look at my build thread if you want to laugh or cry, to be honest I did buy a 5hit one though.
Nanocom will save you money in the long run, plus you can always sell it on. I got mine from defender2.net forum, they do a group buy now and then so you get a discount
Steve

If the exhaust manifold isn't already blowing be prepared for that. They are a pig for blowing studs and or having them break off in the head. Mine did!
So if it's OK, take it off, make sure it is totally flat with a straight edge then get rid of the webbing between all the branches.
Some people then change the studs for a special, aftermarket kit.
Changing the ATF and filter on an auto isn't hard. Just be aware the ATF will continue to drop on your head while you are changing the filter. And that checking the level involves having the engine running and moving the gear selector into and out of all the gears slowly then leaving it running while you top up the level. I use a pump up garden spray with the tip removed off the lance, to get the fluid in. Much easier than any other way I've tried.
Best of luck!

I would definitely say become "One" with your Disco and do all the oil and filter changes and maintenance yourself.
if you plan on keeping the Disco, invest in a Nanocom. It will pay for itself after a few uses when it aids in identifying/correcting electrical issues.

Number 1 is to stop all water ingress to the cab. This kills D2s and is really important to address. I wouldnt buy one without a test drive then full check with a Nanocom etc…. But east to say if you have a Nanocom…
ACE is great but can be expensive and annoying to repair.
As long as the chassis is solid its ok, surface rust can be wire brushed, treated with fertan etc the Dynax.
Calipers can stick on.
Check for drivetrain slop, can be hard to pin down.
Budget for a remap if its an auto, they are slugs from stock.

ronsealdeath said:

Number 1 is to stop all water ingress to the cab. This kills D2s and is really important to address. I wouldnt buy one without a test drive then full check with a Nanocom etc…. But east to say if you have a Nanocom…
ACE is great but can be expensive and annoying to repair.
As long as the chassis is solid its ok, surface rust can be wire brushed, treated with fertan etc the Dynax.
Calipers can stick on.
Check for drivetrain slop, can be hard to pin down.
Budget for a remap if its an auto, they are slugs from stock.

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Thank you (and thanks everyone) !

what do you mean by Drivetrain slop? Slow change of gears ?

Will the rear drive shaft or front prop need changing ? Soon? Do you reckon

I mean when you are driving on the flat or a slight incline then pull your foot off the gas then push it again, you may feel and hear a clunk. This is wear in the drivetrain.

ronsealdeath said:

I mean when you are driving on the flat or a slight incline then pull your foot off the gas then push it again, you may feel and hear a clunk. This is wear in the drivetrain.

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Very helpful to know. Thanks !!!!

I take it you are Burton way mate...

tilly2 said:

I take it you are Burton way mate...

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Yep! Near as makes no difference anyway. Are you near-ish? Do you own a disco?

Stafford way mate. We've got a Disco 2 TD5 and a 90. No experience with the autoboxes, or ACE, so cant advise you there. Biggest thing will be the chassis. Everything else is pretty much doable for a home mechanic, with some experience and a good set of tools. Dont buy a Landrover if you dont want to get into home mechanics.

tilly2 said:

Stafford way mate. We've got a Disco 2 TD5 and a 90. No experience with the autoboxes, or ACE, so cant advise you there. Biggest thing will be the chassis. Everything else is pretty much doable for a home mechanic, with some experience and a good set of tools. Dont buy a Landrover if you dont want to get into home mechanics.

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Nice.
I’m planning on it haha.
I’d like to keep the disco going for as long as possible. Will obv need a new chassis engine … everything at some point. Just trying to eek it out

You can partly garage maintain them, but do as much yourself as possible.

I get welding done, steering box was garage, will get one of them to do radiator in a couple of weeks.

Brakes me services me.

Cut off is weather and my body.

I managed to do ACE rebuild with a wrecked back as it was warm and sunny

As an example starter motor swap about 25 quid labour.

Ftom a specialist.

25 quid to avoid cold wet drive. No brainer

MJI said:

I managed to do ACE rebuild with a wrecked back as it was warm and sunny

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That’s really interesting and good to hear! The LR I’m looking at now has had ACE deleted but I don’t know to what extent. I’d love to re-install it at some point. Along with the air Suspension.

If the ACE is deleted just leave it deleted. It is a great system but not all had it and it can be a headache unless you hydro hose convert it. You wont miss what you never had.