H

Handscomb

New Member
bought this car two days ago, mileage is low compared to most, car is in spectacular condition inside & out, but this morning, i noticed "check coolant level"

going past a mechanics it kept flashing up & the needle went over to hot,

the mech opened up the coolant air valve and steam poured out for a good 10 minutes, it was COMPLETELY empty, at first it ran great only going half way but here we are a few hours later & the needle is creeping back towards hot with round town usage, it's only when we go @ quite high speed that the needle goes down.

don't really know what i'm doing with this stuff, the mechanic had mentioned that the previous people had used a "gold" type of "radseal" whatever this means? and the last owner may have tried to cover up a leak.

Can't afford a costly bill at the moment, if it's a case of radiator i have a brand new one on my other vogue.

checked engine oil, looks good, am i missing something vital? i'll be doing a service on her soon but just for round town driving at the moment this needs to be fixed.

Thanks in advance.

Chris
 
Handscomb said:
dealer,

apparently has a 3 month RAC warranty.
Click to expand...

Read the warranty terms and see if it excludes head gaskets and overheating.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/buying-crock-****-if-you-already-have-76002.html
 
Thing is,

with this overheating issue, will it even make the 60 mile journey?
with the cost of fuel that's quite alot to get there and then i have the hassle of back, there must be something i can do with that

i don't want a refund, the rest of the car is in too good condition to be a crocker, i know what a coverup looks like, i'll see what i can do about getting it repaired at their expense under this same law? would i be covered to ask them to pay a local garage directly / collect the car & take it to their own.?


Chris
 
Dealer sale is covered under the Sale of Goods act - read the thread indicated called Crock of ****e Thread.....

Mine did similar turned out to be the water pump, I picked up a new pump for £70 odd and fitted it in a day, but I take my time and took loads of pics, check out my how to in the How To section :D

Goldseal or Radseal whatever it is called is stuff people dump in the coolant system and it is supposed to seal holes or leaks....but can lead to more issues than it solves, like block water passages, radiator cooling cores and gumming up Water Pumps....
 
how much is getting it linered gonna cost, incuding labour? 2.5K, 3K?

you need to puy your complaint in writing and give them the opportunity to repair it!

READ THE CROCK OF ****E THREAD OR GET A MORTGAGE
 
Handscomb said:
Thing is,

with this overheating issue, will it even make the 60 mile journey?
with the cost of fuel that's quite alot to get there and then i have the hassle of back, there must be something i can do with that

i don't want a refund, the rest of the car is in too good condition to be a crocker, i know what a coverup looks like, i'll see what i can do about getting it repaired at their expense under this same law? would i be covered to ask them to pay a local garage directly / collect the car & take it to their own.?


Chris
Click to expand...
Whatever you do, don't let it overheat as it can lead to warped heads and cracked blocks/heads/both....

Suggest the 60 mile journey is a no no
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
how much is getting it linered gonna cost, incuding labour? 2.5K, 3K?

you need to put your complaint in writing and give them the opportunity to repair it!

READ THE CROCK OF ****E THREAD OR GET A MORTGAGE
Click to expand...

I concur
 
Handscomb said:
linered?
Click to expand...

If you want to get this sorted The Mad Hat Man and myself have experience getting people sorted.

If you drive it and wreck the engine your have no comeback on dealer or warranty
 
well i guess it's staying on the driveway for now, fortunately i have another.

i'll have a solid read through the crock of ****e thread,

can i make contact via phone first or is strictly written.

part of me says to give up and get a refund, then part of me says i want these assles to foot the bill (& hoping it will be enormous) thought i was buying a descent car.
 
Handscomb said:
linered?
Click to expand...
The Rover V8's had issues with the cylinder liners slipping causing issues...

The fix was to fit Top Hat liners...costly but solved the issue mostly

Your BMW Engined L322 won't have this issue
 
Handscomb said:
well i guess it's staying on the driveway for now, fortunately i have another.

i'll have a solid read through the crock of ****e thread,

can i make contact via phone first or is strictly written.

part of me says to give up and get a refund, then part of me says i want these assles to foot the bill (& hoping it will be enormous) thought i was buying a descent car.
Click to expand...
id check obvious first ,like rads hot all over when engine upto temp ,system pressurising ,hoses all hot ,thermostat opening etc
 
jamesmartin said:
id check obvious first ,like rads hot all over when engine upto temp ,system pressurising ,hoses all hot ,thermostat opening etc
Click to expand...
hmmmm could be the stat.....

The L322 uses an electrically Heated Thermostat, during warm up the stat acts like anyother and then opens up to aid cooling...under load and acceleration ,the Engine ECU commands the stat to open further to allow more water past to cool the engine better, this is done by heating an element inside the stat to open it more....

You mention that over 50mph the needle starts to drop back to the cooler middle area...this could be because the ECU is commanding the stat to open further...it could be the stat isn't opening enough during normal driving mode around town.

The BMW enegine is designed to run hot at around 105degC for better fuel and emission control, but durin g high speed and high load, the ECU commands the stat open to cool the engine more due to the high work load.....

it could be that....

In fact search my threads for my odd temp readings thread...where my temp gauge would climb, then drop, then climb then drop...this was the stat not opening properly until the ECU told it to....changed it out and all is well....simple job to do!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/curious-temp-gauge-readings-194769.html
 
Saint.V8 said:
hmmmm could be the stat.....

The L322 uses an electrically Heated Thermostat, during warm up the stat acts like anyother and then opens up to aid cooling...under load and acceleration ,the Engine ECU commands the stat to open further to allow more water past to cool the engine better, this is done by heating an element inside the stat to open it more....

You mention that over 50mph the needle starts to drop back to the cooler middle area...this could be because the ECU is commanding the stat to open further...it could be the stat isn't opening enough during normal driving mode around town.

The BMW enegine is designed to run hot at around 105degC for better fuel and emission control, but durin g high speed and high load, the ECU commands the stat open to cool the engine more due to the high work load.....

it could be that....

In fact search my threads for my odd temp readings thread...where my temp gauge would climb, then drop, then climb then drop...this was the stat not opening properly until the ECU told it to....changed it out and all is well....simple job to do!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/curious-temp-gauge-readings-194769.html
Click to expand...

They had also mentioned at the garage earlier that someone had used this gold "radseal" in the system..?
 
Handscomb said:
They had also mentioned at the garage earlier that someone had used this gold "radseal" in the system..?
Click to expand...
Rad seal could gum up the stat....I am leaning towards a stat issue....

But why they would use Radseal concerns me!
 
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