B

brettguise

New Member
Hi guys, I'm learning a lot as I go and I'm soon attempting my first coolant flush. I've done a bit of a search and it seems some people use OAT coolant some people don't.

I've read the RAVE on changing it and read that I require 11.5 litres. I have ordered some brass filler plugs to replace my plastic ones.

Just to check the coolant, looking at for example something like this

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 1 89-98 GREEN ANTI FREEZE LONG LIFE 5L 5 LITRE | eBay

Do I have to add 50% water to that to make it nearly 11.5 litres or as that is pre mixed would I need to buy at least two of those and just fill it up with that.

Once I have drained It can I fill with water run the engine for 5 and then drain the water and then fill with fresh coolant or do you just run a hose pipe through the expansion tank until water runs out the radiator bottom hose clear?

Also draining the air out of the system, RAVE recommends to fill the expansion tank until it comes to radiator then fit cap do the same on thermostat fit cap then run the engine to get rid of the air. Is it ok to run the engine without the cap on the expansion tank?

I'm sure this is basic skills but before I had my land rover I could only just change a wheel lol.
 
The antifreeze doesn't say OAT in its spec but it does say 'pre mixed' so you need two, plus a bit more if you wish to have your 11.5 ltrs

You may just as well go and the OAT antifreeze from Halfords it was £22 for 5 ltrs the last time I looked.

I've been using the Halfords stuff for the last 11 years and when replaced just using the whole 5 ltrs which is not quite the 50% mix.

I flushed my system four times when going over to OAT the first time.
 
So the OAT from Halfords you mix with 50% water? Wait no here it is

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_219452_langId_-1_categoryId_255224

So that would be almost £50 to change the anti freeze! What's the cheapest way of doing it, I wont keep my car that long lol.

When you flush the system can you leave the bottom of the rad disconnected leave the hosepipe somewhere like the top of the thermostat and run the engine or will that ruin the engine? Or to flush it do you fill it up again and drain it until its running clear or?
 
Last edited:
Ooo £25 now that's because it's now winter, I change my antifreeze in the spring when the do the discounts, but I have another 4 years to go before I need to think about that.
 
£12.58 click and collect, buy 1 get one 30% off. Not a bad price for anyone looking :D

Now im trying to work out If I should undo the drain plug on the block or just use the rad hose. Im worried not all will drain and I will end up mixing anti freezes when I top back up. Im still unsure on the best way to flush.
 
brettguise said:
Hi guys, I'm learning a lot as I go and I'm soon attempting my first coolant flush. I've done a bit of a search and it seems some people use OAT coolant some people don't.

I've read the RAVE on changing it and read that I require 11.5 litres. I have ordered some brass filler plugs to replace my plastic ones.

Just to check the coolant, looking at for example something like this

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 1 89-98 GREEN ANTI FREEZE LONG LIFE 5L 5 LITRE | eBay

Do I have to add 50% water to that to make it nearly 11.5 litres or as that is pre mixed would I need to buy at least two of those and just fill it up with that.

Once I have drained It can I fill with water run the engine for 5 and then drain the water and then fill with fresh coolant or do you just run a hose pipe through the expansion tank until water runs out the radiator bottom hose clear?

Also draining the air out of the system, RAVE recommends to fill the expansion tank until it comes to radiator then fit cap do the same on thermostat fit cap then run the engine to get rid of the air. Is it ok to run the engine without the cap on the expansion tank?

I'm sure this is basic skills but before I had my land rover I could only just change a wheel lol.
Click to expand...


Hi BG, the way I do a coolant change is this:

1. Remove the bottom rad hose and drain the system of the old stuff and dispose off responsibly;

2. Next get a hosepipe and flush out the radiator and the engine block until only clear water comes out;

3. Refit all pipes so the cooling circuit is closed again, then start to refill, via the radiator then the thermostat holes;

4. At this stage I use only the NON-diluted anti-freeze, (as there will be a certain amount of water left within the block and you want to ensure the ratio 50/50);

5. Once you have put in 5.5ltrs on concentrated antifreeze you can start to top up with pure water until the rad, the thermostat housing are full, then cap off;

6. Now check the level in the header tank, it should be at the height of the seam in the housing, if it's too high syphon some out and save to one side (you'll need it later);

7. Leave the header tank cap off and start the engine, leave it running for 5-10 mins allowing it to bleed itself of air, now check and refill if necessary the header tank.

8. Go for a good run to get things fully warmed through and check again;

8. Monitor carefully for the next few days until you are sure the level is stable - and relax !

Dave
 
thebiglad said:
Hi BG, the way I do a coolant change is this:

1. Remove the bottom rad hose and drain the system of the old stuff and dispose off responsibly;

2. Next get a hosepipe and flush out the radiator and the engine block until only clear water comes out;

3. Refit all pipes so the cooling circuit is closed again, then start to refill, via the radiator then the thermostat holes;

4. At this stage I use only the NON-diluted anti-freeze, (as there will be a certain amount of water left within the block and you want to ensure the ratio 50/50);

5. Once you have put in 5.5ltrs on concentrated antifreeze you can start to top up with pure water until the rad, the thermostat housing are full, then cap off;

6. Now check the level in the header tank, it should be at the height of the seam in the housing, if it's too high syphon some out and save to one side (you'll need it later);

7. Leave the header tank cap off and start the engine, leave it running for 5-10 mins allowing it to bleed itself of air, now check and refill if necessary the header tank.

8. Go for a good run to get things fully warmed through and check again;

8. Monitor carefully for the next few days until you are sure the level is stable - and relax !

Dave
Click to expand...

Spot on Dave, I will make sure mine is drained as much as I can as I just purchased ready mixed rather than concentrate but that's a good idea with the concentrate first then water. Thanks.
 
brettguise said:
Spot on Dave, I will make sure mine is drained as much as I can as I just purchased ready mixed rather than concentrate but that's a good idea with the concentrate first then water. Thanks.
Click to expand...

That's the problem with using the ready-mixed stuff -you don't know how much plain water is left in the engine, to dilute your new ready-mixed coolant?

Dave
 
For those seeking to minimise corrosion in the system - if using dilutable antifreeze, consider using de-ionised water instead of tap water. It's not expensive.
 
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