Because the roads here in South Africa are so potholed, I am considering getting myself a Freelander 2 because it is so comfortable and solid. I like the idea of converting it to 2WD. Sounds like I can just unbolt the drive shaft to the rear. However, before I castrate my proposed car, I want to know: A. I will not overstress something remaining in the IRD or gearbox and B. It will not cause ABS, TC or other warning lights. Most of the 2WD posts I can find seem to talk about FL1. None that I can find are 100% FL2. (We did not get the factory 2WD FL2 here). Thanks
Several reasons:
1. Primarily: no more worrying about keeping exactly the same tyre sizes.
Wifes FL2 destroyed bearings in front power transfer unit before I knew of this. Never worried about it with my Rangies or Disco.
Front and rear tyres wear at different rates so I have to pump front and rear to different pressures to keep tyre diameters close.
2. Improve fuel economy a wee bit
3. Reduce vibrations and any grumbles from drive train and rear diff
4. Improve acceleration and braking (slightly)
5. Eliminate possible future repair costs to power transfer unit, prop shaft and rear diff.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Technically removing the propshaft will make it unable to drive all 4 wheels, so will be 2WD.
However the diff bearings will still fail, as they're still tuning.
It won't make any difference to the fuel economy.
It'll spin the front tyres more easily when pulling away, so increasing front tyre wear.
The brakes won't be better, but could be worse, as the Haldex can join the front and rear axles together under heavy braking, in order to maintain traction.
Just rotate the tyres every 5km, and keep them at the correct pressure.
Also make sure the fluids in the AWD components are changed regularly, so reducing failures.
However the diff bearings will still fail, as they're still tuning.
It won't make any difference to the fuel economy.
It'll spin the front tyres more easily when pulling away, so increasing front tyre wear.
The brakes won't be better, but could be worse, as the Haldex can join the front and rear axles together under heavy braking, in order to maintain traction.
Just rotate the tyres every 5km, and keep them at the correct pressure.
Also make sure the fluids in the AWD components are changed regularly, so reducing failures.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I'm not so sure it is as easy as that with a F2.
What you are talking about and the terms you use (IRD) refer to an F1.
The F2 is a different beast.
With an F1 you can simply remove the props and VCU and get on with life not worrying that the transmission will destroy itself. If you remove the props on an F2, you will still have the Haldex bolted to the diff, and you can't remove it because it is the front end of the diff. You'll also need to leave it there as if you remove it (or its electrical connections) you'll get all sorts of warnings on the dash and possibly put the car into some sort of limp mode. I don't know the ins and outs - but you would need to know for sure that it is actually possible first.
If may be more suitable to do an F2 equivalent of what I've done to my F1. My F1 is 2WD, but carries all the original kit - props & VCU. I've had the crown gear in the IRD PTO removed though so that it does not drive the prop shaft. There is talk on another thread that a F2 is unwittingly running 2WD and the consensus is that the splines in the PTO have been stripped. Maybe this is what you need to do - take your PTO to a shop and get them to machine down the splines!
What you are talking about and the terms you use (IRD) refer to an F1.
The F2 is a different beast.
With an F1 you can simply remove the props and VCU and get on with life not worrying that the transmission will destroy itself. If you remove the props on an F2, you will still have the Haldex bolted to the diff, and you can't remove it because it is the front end of the diff. You'll also need to leave it there as if you remove it (or its electrical connections) you'll get all sorts of warnings on the dash and possibly put the car into some sort of limp mode. I don't know the ins and outs - but you would need to know for sure that it is actually possible first.
If may be more suitable to do an F2 equivalent of what I've done to my F1. My F1 is 2WD, but carries all the original kit - props & VCU. I've had the crown gear in the IRD PTO removed though so that it does not drive the prop shaft. There is talk on another thread that a F2 is unwittingly running 2WD and the consensus is that the splines in the PTO have been stripped. Maybe this is what you need to do - take your PTO to a shop and get them to machine down the splines!
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
It will last an awful lot longer though as there's a lot less stress going through them.
However, a 'full monty' 2WD conversion on a F1 would also remove the diff and the drive shafts down to the outer CV.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The issue with the rear diff is due to the pinion bearing pre-load being too high (I couldn't turn my replacement diff by hand), so the bearings will still fail, even if no drive is being put through it.
You could do it that way, but it'd flash reduced traction up on the LCD when starting, and prevent the DSC for functioning, along with illumination of the DSC light on the dash.
Like this.
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kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
Just wondering, didn't LR offer a 2WD version of the FL2 or am I imagining that?
BootsBoots
New Member
They did offer a 2WD.
Boots
Boots
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Might not have got to all territories though.
It was only made available so that the average emission across the range would make the car more EU friendly. Don't suppose they sold to many even where it was available.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I think there were quite a few sold, as they were considerably cheaper than the standard AWD version.
When I was looking for mine, I found quite a few for sale. I even saw a couple of sales adds saying things like 'get ready for winter' and 'legendary go anywhere vehicle' along with the more normal vehicle information.
I wondered if buyers of these 2WD versions were even aware of what they were buying, as the dealer selling them didn't have a clue.
I personally can't see the point in a 2WD Freelander 2, as if the owner only needs 2WD, there are plenty of cheaper 2WD vehicles that are better.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Having owned and driven 1 for 7 1/2 years, I can confirm they start and get from A to B. You can fit just as much inside them and tow just as much with them (legally). The driving position and view is unaltered as is the comfort for driver and passengers.
I do not need to be anal matching tyres and maintaining their pressure.
However, it is severely limited taking it off road. So I have to be very careful when I take it down the river bed fishing, the TC lights flash, but being careful means I've never got stuck. I did get stuck on 1 trip, about 80kms from tarmac and 15kms from any gravel road - was a fun adventure to see how far it would go
This marker shows where I got stuck.So I agree, 4WD does have advantages, which is why I have a 4WD IRD. Its been sat in the garage for 5 years while I decide if its better to put it back to 4WD
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Go on. Make it 4WD again.
The tyre thing isn't that bad. Just use tyres you know you'll always be able to get, and make sure the best are on the rear, but you know the drill.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
That's up to you. If we all drove the most practical car, we'd all be driving Toyota Hiluxes, or Ford Focuses etc depending on their basic requirements. But a lot of car ownership, if you're interested in them, is what you want. I love my Freelander, people say what's the point of a 2WD Freelander, but I say I couldn't give a toss, its what I want.
So you do have the option of taking 1 and making it 2WD - but you'll need to put some research / effort / ZARs in to making it that way.
Obviously if you're not too keen that you want a Freelander, then yeh - its not worth the agro!
