I'd start with a good soaking in WD40 for a day or so. Then if you can get the flats of a spanner on the back block to stop it moving too much while you attack the allen bolt.
With the bolt out does the clamp come off? Do you need to take both bolts out or are the clamps separate for each pipe?Allen bolt is completely free. It's not separating from the block. The pipe flange is stuck inside. Thanks
Ah I see the setup now,a bit of rotation should break the grip of the o ring.IMO still worth a good soaking. With the bolt out it should turn a little with a spanner on each piece.
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IMO still worth a good soaking. With the bolt out it should turn a little with a spanner on each piece.
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I had to change the top pipe next to the rad that ran to the back of the engine bay. At least the engine was big enough to lie to get to the back
Not sure if you know but it's probably easier to get to the bulkhead if you take this off, just a couple of bolts. After lying on the engine for 20 minutes I realised I could reach from the side
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Omg so helpful ty. Yes I'll look at that for sure. Because that rear ones going to be a nightmare judging by the front
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Changed mine last year and had same issue.
Just keep spraying it with a penetrating fluid, it's not the pipe o'ring itself that's stuck in the condensor, it's the two surface faces fused to one another.
I used a flat head screwdriver to lever them apart very gently, but very carefull not to damage the pipe.