I guess it all boils down to whether or not you intend to keep it or not. If you like the car and want to keep it then get the spanners out and do the job properly. Like I said, the cost of a set of rings was less than the price of a quality head gasket kit so no sense in gambling. You will also need to change the big end shells but again a fairly cheap item. At the end of it you will have a engine you can trust and no smoke.
 
I think my problem is I want to drive it. I have only had it a couple of weeks and only been able to drive it to the mot station and back.
There is no doubt I want to fix it properly but that will take time so would rather do a quick fix to get an mot then get it sorted when it suits in a few weeks once I have driven it a bit.
The other dilema I have is do I try myself or get someone else to do it. Or do I find a really good repkacement engine.
I just can't make up my mind.
I want to fix it myself but don't also want to find myself out of my depth and worse of all making a mistake and destroying the engine.
Lots to think about!
 
Ok, changed the oil for 20/50 and put that Lucas stuff in.
Took it for a drive after and no change.
Looks ok but give it a rev and above 3k revs and smoke comes out.
Decision now is do i chance just the valve stem seals or yank it all out and do the rings too?
Tempted to do it myself.
 
WatchcamP38 said:
Ok, changed the oil for 20/50 and put that Lucas stuff in.
Took it for a drive after and no change.
Looks ok but give it a rev and above 3k revs and smoke comes out.
Decision now is do i chance just the valve stem seals or yank it all out and do the rings too?
Tempted to do it myself.
Click to expand...
Lucas is not instant, it takes a while to do it's work.
 
WatchcamP38 said:
I have just realised i used lucas oil stabaliser. Should i have used Lucas oil stop leak??
Ffs!!!
Click to expand...

You used the right stuff, if it had no effect it's not just a wear issues - there is something broken, perhaps a stem seal has actually broken up of a broken piston ring.
 
WatchcamP38 said:
Thanks, at least i know i put the right stuff in.
How long do you think it should take to work?
Click to expand...

I've personally used it on two smoky engines and saw instant results (in both occasions cars that had failed MOTs on high HCs and then subsequently passed). I think there's some confusion, the stuff that takes time to work is when you use Lucas additives in the transmissions to reduce flaring.
 
hi there,a compression test wont tell you if your oil rings are worn out,it can only indicate worn valves( chiped valve lips,or liped edges),on compression rings,cracked piston,anything like that! i would just rebuild her mate,most of the cost is labour charges at a garage,it will have the easier inlet manifold to remove as its an older model,and the heads and rocker gear are easy to remove,no valve clearances to worry about,and the satisfaction ull get when she fires up,and works properly and u get that mot certificate in your hand,ull have a fat ass grin on ur face! i have rebuilt a few before,and the only probolem iv ever had is bleeding the coolant system,as there arnt any bleeding points on the rangie set up! :D
 
Last edited:
tom1disco.300 said:
hi there,a compression test wont tell you if your oil rings are worn out,it can only indicate worn valves( chiped valve lips,or liped edges),on compression rings,cracked piston,anything like that! i would just rebuild her mate,most of the cost is labour charges at a garage,it will have the easier inlet manifold to remove as its an older model,and the heads and rocker gear are easy to remove,no valve clearances to worry about,and the satisfaction ull get when she fires up,and works properly and u get that mot certificate in your hand,ull have a fat ass grin on ur face! i have rebuilt a few before,and the only probolem iv ever had is bleeding the coolant system,as there arnt any bleeding points on the rangie set up! :D
Click to expand...

I am resigned to to rebuilding the engine now. Actually want to give it a crack anyway.
Never done anything quite so complex before so a bit worried about trying but you only live once?!
Best guide I assume is the workshop manual?
Any tips welcomed ....
 
tom1disco.300 said:
hi there,a compression test wont tell you if your oil rings are worn out,it can only indicate worn valves( chiped valve lips,or liped edges),on compression rings,cracked piston,anything like that! i would just rebuild her mate,most of the cost is labour charges at a garage,it will have the easier inlet manifold to remove as its an older model,and the heads and rocker gear are easy to remove,no valve clearances to worry about,and the satisfaction ull get when she fires up,and works properly and u get that mot certificate in your hand,ull have a fat ass grin on ur face! i have rebuilt a few before,and the only probolem iv ever had is bleeding the coolant system,as there arnt any bleeding points on the rangie set up! :D
Click to expand...
A compression check can reveal ring wear....

Do compression check dry...

The put a dribble (Teaspoon) of oil into the cylinder and do another test wet....

If the value increases, the oil has sealed the rings and as such created a higher reading indicating rings are worn....no change indicates a blown gasket, leaking valve seats or valve stems!
 
I might give that a crack but either way i need new valve stem seals as a minimum. Can I tell ring problems with the heads off?
 
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