pwood999 said:
Two more things to verify:

1) Do the mirrors move correctly or are they also not working ?
2) Does the car lock & unlock normally ?

Either of both of these require power to the door outstations, so if they are working then you probably have 12V & ground to each front door & fuses F9 & F22 are ok.

You really need a Nanocom to see what's actually failing. Remember the Switchpack to BECM and the BECM to Outstation require serial data & clock signals. Nanocom would A) tell what the BECM is receiving, and B) allow you to activate the outstation even if the switchpack has failed or has no power.

BTW, failure of any of fuses 2 to 22 should normally display a message in the dash.
Click to expand...
1) Do the mirrors move correctly or are they also not working ?
if I engage the reverse gear, then yes - otherwise they don't work (in neutral)

2) Does the car lock & unlock normally ?
yes

I have removed the panel. I have also found the window motor. The plug has 6 pins - can someone please tell me where I should connect the positive and negative terminals of the battery? The car will now stand in the rain for 6 days - I have to close the window. Thank you!!!
 

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As said in post #4 you really need to download RAVE. It's all in there.




























































































Hint 1 & 3
 
Electrical Troubleshooting section. Try searching the PDF for "Power Windows". Then skip to page 1590 or thereabouts.
 
I can try it out - is it always plus cable at the top and then minus at the bottom?
 

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Thank you, I have read the Electrical Troubleshooting manual pdf. But it doesn't show the plug from the motor - but the individual plugs - I don't understand anything about that.

Here page 249 - I think:


In general, I find it difficult to come to terms with it - to go to all this trouble without success.
I'm sure that this one fuse is causing the whole thing. I've now covered them all with foil again - the rain is coming. We'll continue tomorrow - there's no giving up!

Thank you very much for the great support here!!!
 
If you search for the connector number it shows you. C1565 on page 590 of that link you posted.

SW & SG are the wire colours (page 14) if you need to identify the pins.

1748964156989.png
 
I have another question. For a long time I have had the problem that when I open the car on the remote control - all the pins go up - only the one on the driver's side stays down - but you can clearly hear the motor running. As I took the panelling off for the first time today - I could definitely tell that it is the small motor. Has anyone had this before? Here is a photo - maybe someone will recognise the fault:

red is the rod that goes to the pin...
 

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pwood999 said:
If you search for the connector number it shows you. C1565 on page 590 of that link you posted.

SW & SG are the wire colours (page 14) if you need to identify the pins.

View attachment 342391
Click to expand...

Thank you. The question is, how can I switch off the window regulator?
I would like to disconnect the car battery and trigger the whole manual with a wire. In other words, energise the motor of the window regulator.
 
You don't. Simply connect 12V to the motor until the window reaches the top & disconnect the wires. Start by applying 12V for 1-2 seconds & see which way the window moves. Do it in stages makinbg sure you disconnect at the top to avoid burning the motor out or jamming the mechanism.

If you're really not sure what you are doing, then cover the car for now & find an auto electician.
 
thanks! but how should i proceed? plus on the 1 and minus on the 2? then plus on the 1 and minus on the 3? .... i have now checked all the PDFs but nothing says how to trigger it. I phoned my LandRover dealer today - the next available appointment is in 8 weeks!

Everything I do - is at my own risk!
 
12V (batt +) on pin-1 & 0V (batt -) on pin-3 briefly wathcing which way the window goes. If it tries to go down, reverse the wires.

The other pins are used by the outstation & BECM for blockage / trap detection, so you don't need them for manual closing.
 
pwood999 - thank you very much!
That worked out great - the windows are closed and I now have peace of mind and can prepare everything else in peace.
This was my setup: I quickly built 2 plugs
 

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Good evening everyone,

I have put everything back together again today.
I also ordered new fuses and replaced them today.
The complete switch pack is still without function.

I mean, what should I do now?
The cable from the switch pack is fixed - I've already checked that.
The fuses are also all working.
The problem is definitely with
the first fuse in the box, I'm sure of that.

Summer is here and I can't open a single window, not even the roof.

If I now had the nanoncom - what would it show me? Would the fault be localised immediately - 100%?

I'm a bit at a loss with regard to the problem.
Thanks!!!
 
You can open and close the windows using the Nanocom which proves the systems after the switch pack work, I.e becm and out stations in the doors.
You've already proved that certain window motors work.
Hopefully just dirty switch pack contacts. It is a previously covered subject and with good results from cleaning with caređź‘Ť
You could try this before the Nanocom turns up🤔
I don't know if you haveđź«Ł
 
Frank_38 said:
Good evening everyone,

I have put everything back together again today.
I also ordered new fuses and replaced them today.
The complete switch pack is still without function.

I mean, what should I do now?
The cable from the switch pack is fixed - I've already checked that.
The fuses are also all working.
The problem is definitely with
the first fuse in the box, I'm sure of that.

Summer is here and I can't open a single window, not even the roof.

If I now had the nanoncom - what would it show me? Would the fault be localised immediately - 100%?

I'm a bit at a loss with regard to the problem.
Thanks!!!
Click to expand...
Do the interior lights operate? F1 feeds the switch pack but fuses F2; F9; F12 and F22 are also involved.
A bad earth for the centre switch pack will kill all the functions.
1749743671869.png

Do the mirrors adjust from the switch pack?
Have you checked that you have 12 volts at the switch pack between pins 1 & 6 of the connector?
 
Last edited:
...but how likely is it that all contacts in the switch pack will fail at the same time?

I've watched this video but I don't think it's my problem....




not a single button on the switch pack works. When it worked briefly, all the buttons worked.
 
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