Datatek
Well-Known Member
Having 12 volts at the fuse is one thing, but have you actually checked if there is a blown fuse?
Also a very close look at the connectors under the fuse box ...
Are you checking both sides of each fuse ? There needs to be 12V passing through the fuse !!
Another simple check is to try opening & closing windows with Nanocom (you have bought one I hope ??)
ok, the problem is solved for the time being.
unfortunately I didn't proceed systematically.
what I did:
- pulled out all fuses (including those in the engine compartment)
- checked - all fuses were good - treated with contact spray
- Checked the cables under the passenger seat and the plugs
Then the test and the buttons work again.
I suspect that pulling the fuse under the passenger seat solved the problem.
Thank you very much!!!
unfortunately I didn't proceed systematically.
what I did:
- pulled out all fuses (including those in the engine compartment)
- checked - all fuses were good - treated with contact spray
- Checked the cables under the passenger seat and the plugs
Then the test and the buttons work again.
I suspect that pulling the fuse under the passenger seat solved the problem.
Thank you very much!!!
More likely the contacts were corroded, and pulling & re-inserting did the trick. Best clean them thoroughly to prevent future issues. Has it been stored or used in a damp environment ?
Good evening everyone,
Unfortunately I have a big problem.
I've already found out that the first fuse is responsible for the console.
Until yesterday, everything worked perfectly. Today the failure again. I took the fuse out again, ‘ground’ it a little and put it back in - it works again.
Now I've come home and again the failure - but the windows are down and the rain is coming in 2 hours! Is there a way to close the windows manually?
...is there a way to short-circuit the fuse
Unfortunately I have a big problem.
I've already found out that the first fuse is responsible for the console.
Until yesterday, everything worked perfectly. Today the failure again. I took the fuse out again, ‘ground’ it a little and put it back in - it works again.
Now I've come home and again the failure - but the windows are down and the rain is coming in 2 hours! Is there a way to close the windows manually?
...is there a way to short-circuit the fuse
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Press amd hold the lock button on the fob
Datatek
Well-Known Member
You can temporarily.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
can you check with a NANOCOM and operate them with it?
Have you inspected the fuse box thoroughly 
It may be worth pulling it out and having a look inside the fuse box.
It may be worth pulling it out and having a look inside the fuse box.
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Do I have to remove the seat to do this?Ha ve you inspected the fuse box thoroughly
It may be worth pulling it out and having a look inside the fuse box.
A good question my mate
the box can be pulled out to the front. but in my case there is only a gap - then it gets stuck on the cables. at the back all the cables look good. I cleaned it and reassembled it - unfortunately without success.
If I remove the door panel - can the motor of the window regulator be short-circuited somehow?
If I remove the door panel - can the motor of the window regulator be short-circuited somehow?
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1) is the issue on all windows or only 1 or 2 ?
2) Probably not a good idea to "short circuit" anything. You can apply 12V directly to the motor, but unplug it first.
3) For the one-touch window closing, rather than the fob, try with the key, i.e. turn & hold the key in the lock position.
Do not superlock because you have dodgy wiring, failing outstation, etc. .
2) Probably not a good idea to "short circuit" anything. You can apply 12V directly to the motor, but unplug it first.
3) For the one-touch window closing, rather than the fob, try with the key, i.e. turn & hold the key in the lock position.
Do not superlock because you have dodgy wiring, failing outstation, etc. .
I have tried it - unfortunately nothing happens.
I will now remove the door panelling - then remove the battery and connect it to the motor via a cable.
A lot of effort....
Two more things to verify:
1) Do the mirrors move correctly or are they also not working ?
2) Does the car lock & unlock normally ?
Either of both of these require power to the door outstations, so if they are working then you probably have 12V & ground to each front door & fuses F9 & F22 are ok.
You really need a Nanocom to see what's actually failing. Remember the Switchpack to BECM and the BECM to Outstation require serial data & clock signals. Nanocom would A) tell what the BECM is receiving, and B) allow you to activate the outstation even if the switchpack has failed or has no power.
BTW, failure of any of fuses 2 to 22 should normally display a message in the dash.
1) Do the mirrors move correctly or are they also not working ?
2) Does the car lock & unlock normally ?
Either of both of these require power to the door outstations, so if they are working then you probably have 12V & ground to each front door & fuses F9 & F22 are ok.
You really need a Nanocom to see what's actually failing. Remember the Switchpack to BECM and the BECM to Outstation require serial data & clock signals. Nanocom would A) tell what the BECM is receiving, and B) allow you to activate the outstation even if the switchpack has failed or has no power.
BTW, failure of any of fuses 2 to 22 should normally display a message in the dash.
