Stock_90_TD5_SW said:
Benpalmer, thank You for very informative posts.

Gottschalk, You can't do the galvanising yourself, right? It's like boiling the whole chassis in a large tub?
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No you can't do it yourself. It is an industrial operation but not as expensive as you might think. The work is weighed before it goes in the tank and when it comes out. Cost is the weight of zinc used. The last I had anything done, which was quite a few years ago, it was £90/tonne with a minimum charge of £90.
 
benpalmer said:
I've had a quick look on the website and it seems they no longer do them, could ask Phil to remake um, but a one off would be pricey. Maybe a nice welding project.....

The attached picture is my Defender up on them. The side steps (as seen in pic), make up the ramp section once re-positioned. Come with wheel chocks too. I'm happy with em, good design, very heavy though.
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Thanks for the piccie :) I like them - might have a go at gluing some together - maybe use the old style ones I have as the ramps up on to them .....

benpalmer said:
not sure they would be better than a two post lift mind! That would be perfect. Maybe on day......
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Ah, well, but the thing with a lift is that it is inside, and thus not really that suitable for spraying "nasty" chemically active stuff .... bl@@dy brilliant for just everything everything else mind, just not for spraying :eek:
 
Thanks all...although as per the post, due to various circumstances not under my control right now I simply do not have the time to do this myself. I think I'll go for a commercially applied Dinitrol treatment...it will do me for now.

Thanks again!
 
Stock_90_TD5_SW said:
Benpalmer, thank You for very informative posts.

Gottschalk, You can't do the galvanising yourself, right? It's like boiling the whole chassis in a large tub?
Click to expand...

No that's right mate, bit you can prep a good or repaired chassis for galvanising, the only trouble is it does take a lot of prep work, and you have to drill holes into cavities which are closed off internally or you can get explosions from the gases and also you wont get the galv into every nook and cranny if not prepped right. Most places will acid dip first if the metal is old, and I suspect before you had it done youd want it bead blasted or similar. Also, if you have done repairs you can get hideous distortion with galvanizing, so personally I'd either get one from Richards or Marsland, or if repaired and I good nick paint inside and out thoroughly! I'm not a big fan of any rust inhibitors, I like a nice clean dry chassis, but I see that they have there uses and will control rust if one wants to keep one on the road without a major overhaul.
 
For what it’s worth, my experience of Dinitrol.
I’ve had a 1972 MGB and my 2002 Td5 both done by a professional in Glasgow. I’m super pleased and his work really got into the nooks and crannies. Took 4 days to allow the jet and steam clean to dry and the final coating to go off. But here is the killer benefit......he provided an interior camera film on dvd of the whole box section after it had been cleaned and then treated. This gave me some perspective of what risk I was dealing with rather than the ‘shooting blind’ approach.
I echo the comments about what you can’t see is the problem, it’s been on on 3 years and since then the two areas of the chassis that were in need of repair have been done, but the treatment has held together, it’s not thick and crud like on fittings and the ability to keep an eye on your truck remains.
I’m a fan, it was well worth the 500 spent as the products alone were close to 200.
 
Ade Hawkins said:
For what it’s worth, my experience of Dinitrol.
I’ve had a 1972 MGB and my 2002 Td5 both done by a professional in Glasgow. I’m super pleased and his work really got into the nooks and crannies. Took 4 days to allow the jet and steam clean to dry and the final coating to go off. But here is the killer benefit......he provided an interior camera film on dvd of the whole box section after it had been cleaned and then treated. This gave me some perspective of what risk I was dealing with rather than the ‘shooting blind’ approach.
I echo the comments about what you can’t see is the problem, it’s been on on 3 years and since then the two areas of the chassis that were in need of repair have been done, but the treatment has held together, it’s not thick and crud like on fittings and the ability to keep an eye on your truck remains.
I’m a fan, it was well worth the 500 spent as the products alone were close to 200.
Click to expand...

I'm looking get the Daughters Discovery done whats the name of garage in Glasgow you used? Don't fancy doing it myself
 
I have just done the full chassis on my D2 with Waxoyl. I'm doing a bit of an experiment with some of it first coated with Fertan. In the past I have thinned the Waxoyl with heat, but I think it is still too thick to give a proper coat. I have since thinned it with white spirit, but this year I have really thinned it down. It is very thin but definitely runs into all the nooks and crannies. Three thin coats like this and I think the white spirit helps each coat to etch into each other. We will see how it goes.
 
I have just done the full chassis on my D2 with Waxoyl. I'm doing a bit of an experiment with some of it first coated with Fertan. In the past I have thinned the Waxoyl with heat, but I think it is still too thick to give a proper coat. I have since thinned it with white spirit, but this year I have really thinned it down. It is very thin but definitely runs into all the nooks and crannies. Three thin coats like this and I think the white spirit helps each coat to etch into each other. We will see how it goes.
 
I have just done the full chassis on my D2 with Waxoyl. I'm doing a bit of an experiment with some of it first coated with Fertan. In the past I have thinned the Waxoyl with heat, but I think it is still too thick to give a proper coat. I have since thinned it with white spirit, but this year I have really thinned it down. It is very thin but definitely runs into all the nooks and crannies. Three thin coats like this and I think the white spirit helps each coat to etch into each other. We will see how it goes.
 
Hippo said:
Get yerself a drain unblocker to clean out the chassis. I have one of these. Tis quite a powerful jet.

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I was going to suggest this also you've beaten me to it ;)

Also if peeps want proper metal protection use epoxy mastic paint (2 pack) :)
 
Sorry for the late reply, Hippo! Thanks for this tip on the jet!! Do You think the nozzle would fit through the existing holes of the chassis or would they need to be widened?
 
Stock_90_TD5_SW said:
Sorry for the late reply, Hippo! Thanks for this tip on the jet!! Do You think the nozzle would fit through the existing holes of the chassis or would they need to be widened?
Click to expand...
Just measured the end at 17mm diameter ont my drain unblocker. It must be 10 year old. I assume what they make now is the same. Most tratters should have a rust hole big enough.
 
Does anyone have any experience of Flatdog's Dinitrol service. I've been put off Before 'n After by the tone he uses on the website.
 
Si Click said:
Does anyone have any experience of Flatdog's Dinitrol service. I've been put off Before 'n After by the tone he uses on the website.
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He's ok. A bit eccentric. He quotes himself to be profoundly deaf so best to go and see him or email.
 
blue beasty said:
Threatening to sue individuals that give negative reviews and forums that refuse to remove negative posts could be described as 'eccentric'...
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He certainly takes things personal. I've seen them and have seen other forums take a shot at him anorl. The arguments between commercial rust proofers end up on the web anorl. To be fair to him I remember him being around when I read lro in the early 90's. He's still around doing the same thing. Some hate him others don't. I've seen some of his work. It's eggspensive but he's running a business which will always cost more than a tin of paint and a brush + dirty weekend.
 
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