Pingboy
Member
Hi again , well not a lot has changed in the last couple of weeks .The car is still laid up , good news is it is having a new clutch / dual mass & slave cylinder. Full job I have managed to get the new flywheel bolts , does anybody know the part number for pressure plate bolts ? In case I need to get some .Many thanks for your replies and help on this one .
Pingboy
Hi, ideal you’ve got the lot. I wouldn’t worry about the clutch plate bolts, they are usually rated a 10.9 or 12.9 so strong as hell. They don’t come with the clutch kit and i don’t think I’ve ever replaced them. The flywheel on the other hand will usually have new, already thread-locked bolts in the box and I would definitely use them.
Pingboy
Member
Morning , thanks again for the info . Have read they can be reused etc ,got the new flywheel bolts etc. So it's a go for today .
Good luck with it, hope it goes smoothly
Pingboy
Member
Hi RossGood luck with it, hope it goes smoothly
All good and back up running again , many thanks for all your posts with great advice .
Hi guys
An update on my issue that I had on my clutch going soft.
As stated in my previous post, I replaced the entire clutch plate, pressure plate, fly wheel, and slave cylinder around 20 000 Km ago (2 years ago) and about 2 months ago my clutch pedal went to the ground again, so I replaced the master cylinder as I thought it could not be the slave again so quickly.
Well, after about 6 times of trying different ways of bleeding and almost 2 months later, the clutch pedal still slowly went down to the floor after around 200 Km driving. So, 4 days ago I did the big job and took out the transmission to inspect the slave cylinder. Only to find absolutely nothing wrong with it and no signs of leaking.
Left it like that and just put everything back together again.
Then it was time to phone a friend. My brother in law is a mechanic and I explained my story to him. He told me to bleed it properly cause there might be air trapped in the master cylinder as it is the highest point and air does not get out there easily.
So, what I did was first reversed the car on my stands with the rear in the air. Then pressed the clutch pedal down with a stick supported against the seat. Then disconnected the hi pressure hose at the master cylinder and it sprayed the fluid out there. Pressed the hose back in place and released the clutch pedal.
I then started the bleed process at the bleeding nipple with a big syringe filled half with brake fluid and a clear cylicone pipe on front and connected to the bleeding nipple. I then opened the nipple and first pulled out any air out of the system. Then I pressed the brake fluid from the syringe back into the nipple and I could see the level of the brake fluid reservoir going higher. I did this a few times till I saw no air coming from the nipple. Closed the nipple and removed pipe from it.
So far I have driven 300 Km and the clutch still feels perfect. I will give more feedback after a couple of days and more Km driven.
An update on my issue that I had on my clutch going soft.
As stated in my previous post, I replaced the entire clutch plate, pressure plate, fly wheel, and slave cylinder around 20 000 Km ago (2 years ago) and about 2 months ago my clutch pedal went to the ground again, so I replaced the master cylinder as I thought it could not be the slave again so quickly.
Well, after about 6 times of trying different ways of bleeding and almost 2 months later, the clutch pedal still slowly went down to the floor after around 200 Km driving. So, 4 days ago I did the big job and took out the transmission to inspect the slave cylinder. Only to find absolutely nothing wrong with it and no signs of leaking.
Left it like that and just put everything back together again.
Then it was time to phone a friend. My brother in law is a mechanic and I explained my story to him. He told me to bleed it properly cause there might be air trapped in the master cylinder as it is the highest point and air does not get out there easily.
So, what I did was first reversed the car on my stands with the rear in the air. Then pressed the clutch pedal down with a stick supported against the seat. Then disconnected the hi pressure hose at the master cylinder and it sprayed the fluid out there. Pressed the hose back in place and released the clutch pedal.
I then started the bleed process at the bleeding nipple with a big syringe filled half with brake fluid and a clear cylicone pipe on front and connected to the bleeding nipple. I then opened the nipple and first pulled out any air out of the system. Then I pressed the brake fluid from the syringe back into the nipple and I could see the level of the brake fluid reservoir going higher. I did this a few times till I saw no air coming from the nipple. Closed the nipple and removed pipe from it.
So far I have driven 300 Km and the clutch still feels perfect. I will give more feedback after a couple of days and more Km driven.
Excellent stuff matey. Sometimes systems can get badly air locked. Using a power bleeder or the “pressure blow out” method sometimes solves it.
