On Monday after returning from a 600 mile trip, the Defender had some issues getting into 1st and reverse. I assumed it was my master and slave finally needing a replacement. The master had a slow leak in the winter, that would stop in the summer. I would top it off here and there and have no issues with shifting in gears at all.

This just came on, the gear issues, suddenly, and the reservoir was completely topped off at the time.

I replaced both slave and master. Did the reverse bleed method, and could not for the life of me get the clutch back to normal. Once or twice it felt close. I started the truck and went to push clutch and nothing. The car will slightly move forward if you push it towards first. I did not force it, but it was the same for reverse. Slight push in the direction with clutch engaged and it would move backwards but not go into gear.

Is it possible I am not bleeding it enough? Or is this something like a clutch plate?

Any help would be great.
 
On Monday after returning from a 600 mile trip, the Defender had some issues getting into 1st and reverse. I assumed it was my master and slave finally needing a replacement. The master had a slow leak in the winter, that would stop in the summer. I would top it off here and there and have no issues with shifting in gears at all.

This just came on, the gear issues, suddenly, and the reservoir was completely topped off at the time.

I replaced both slave and master. Did the reverse bleed method, and could not for the life of me get the clutch back to normal. Once or twice it felt close. I started the truck and went to push clutch and nothing. The car will slightly move forward if you push it towards first. I did not force it, but it was the same for reverse. Slight push in the direction with clutch engaged and it would move backwards but not go into gear.

Is it possible I am not bleeding it enough? Or is this something like a clutch plate?

Any help would be great.
Are you sure the clutch slave rod is correctly entered in the release arm.
Sounds to me as if the vehicle is moving on the syncro mesh cones, that is, the clutch is not disengaging properly, and you push the gearstick as a preliminary to gear engagement, the syncro is trying to drive the gearbox, though I'm not sure it would do the same for reverse gear, not without grinding the gears, there's no syncro on reverse.
Your Deefer could be suffering from the failed clutch fulcrum ball gone through the clutch release arm or the clutch plate diaphragm spring gone out of whack.
Either of those means gearbox out unfortunately.
 
Anyone have a prefered method of breaking this down? Should I plan on taking the engine out, or do the drop the gearbox method. Either way I will have to buy an engine stand and such.

I appreciate this site immensely. Gotten me out of several jams over the years.

I have to say, My Landy gets USED a lot, and has always gotten me home before complete collapse.
 
Last time I did the clutch i got a few lengths of threaded rod and screwed them in place of a couple of the bellhousing bolts. You can then slide the gearbox back on them and rest on the gearbox crossmember without removing the whole thing. When it comes to replacing you just slide them back and the alignment takes care of itself.
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20180126-WA0007.jpeg
    IMG-20180126-WA0007.jpeg
    245.2 KB · Views: 330
Last time I did the clutch i got a few lengths of threaded rod and screwed them in place of a couple of the bellhousing bolts. You can then slide the gearbox back on them and rest on the gearbox crossmember without removing the whole thing. When it comes to replacing you just slide them back and the alignment takes care of itself.
That is absolutely genius.
 

Similar threads