sp00k
Well-Known Member
I concur. That's goosed
Well done, sp00k. Your getting there.
Doesn't feel like it
Gearbox and transfer box hanging on crane. Props disconnected. Crossmember moved down, floor out. Had to cut front intermediate exhaust and loosen rear, so I will need a new intermediate section.Impact gun has been worth it'a weight in gold on the exhaust nuts.
Anyone doing this job, I strongly recommend taking the engine out, it's far less work, I went this route as I have a disco transfer box that I want to try.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
Feel like I'm winning nowDoesn't feel like it
Impact gun has been worth it'a weight in gold on the exhaust nuts.
Anyone doing this job, I strongly recommend taking the engine out, it's far less work, I went this route as I have a disco transfer box that I want to try.
Tried to separate the gearbox and transfer box on ground but gave up on that plan as I could not lower it properly with the crane etc, so decided to refit and separate after that.
Gearbox and transfer box mated to engine, eventually. Crossmember refitted. Clutch tested fine.
I'll be separating the transfer box off tomorrow and putting on the 'new' one, there's lots to do in between like fitting handbrake brackets which involves tapping some new holes etc.
Then it's just props, exhaust and floor.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
If it's the fork, you will know when you remove the slave as the slave rod should be sticking out at least an inch, if it's inside the bell housing or only sticking a few mm, you have a problem.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
i'm pleased to report that both the clutch and 'new' transfer box both work fine. Had a 10 min spin yesterday. It's not exactly relaxing or quiet at the moment as I'm running without an exhaust
Going from a 1.6 to 1.2 transfer box is going to be a totally different driving style. I kept finding myself in too higher gear. I'm used to turning corners and being able to accelerate away in 3rd from a standstill.
Mine has the military gearbox so has a lower first and second gear. With the 1.6 box, I never used 1st gear as it was too low, but it should be ideal with the current combination.
I still need to sort out the speed transducer and handbrake, but I wanted to make sure the transfer box worked before spending too much time on them.
Going from a 1.6 to 1.2 transfer box is going to be a totally different driving style. I kept finding myself in too higher gear. I'm used to turning corners and being able to accelerate away in 3rd from a standstill.
Mine has the military gearbox so has a lower first and second gear. With the 1.6 box, I never used 1st gear as it was too low, but it should be ideal with the current combination.
I still need to sort out the speed transducer and handbrake, but I wanted to make sure the transfer box worked before spending too much time on them.
chiefweasel
Member
Brilliant thread, really helpful. Hopefully this will be helpful too: After several hours trying to get the slave pushrod clip connected (and failing) I got a six inch length of 15mm plumbing pipe which fits nicely over the pushrod with a tight elastic band to make the pipe grip the pushrod and used that to hold it in place against the fork whilst poking the clip with my finger. 22mm pipe would be too wide to get your finger in the bellhousing at the same time. I did it in 5 minutes using the pipe.
So after doing that and replacing the master once and the slave twice (I overtightened the nipple on the first replacement slave and knackered it) the clutch pedal is still stuck to the floor. I bled it using one of these eezibleed kits but couldn't get the eezibleed cap to fit airtight to the master and sprayed dot4 over everything including me.
Hopefully I can make it airtight and bleed it properly and that should be job done... It's a Delphi master, any ideas how I can make the eezibleed cap fit...easier?
Also, when I took the pushrod out there was something which looked like a dustcap but turned away from the slave so the fat end covered the pushrod clip. I can't find it in any diagrams, had anyone else seen that on theirs? I left it on when refitting.
Also also, when I took the pedal box out the pedal was a real sod to move, so really stiff. Is that normal?
Cheers.
So after doing that and replacing the master once and the slave twice (I overtightened the nipple on the first replacement slave and knackered it) the clutch pedal is still stuck to the floor. I bled it using one of these eezibleed kits but couldn't get the eezibleed cap to fit airtight to the master and sprayed dot4 over everything including me.
Hopefully I can make it airtight and bleed it properly and that should be job done... It's a Delphi master, any ideas how I can make the eezibleed cap fit...easier?
Also, when I took the pushrod out there was something which looked like a dustcap but turned away from the slave so the fat end covered the pushrod clip. I can't find it in any diagrams, had anyone else seen that on theirs? I left it on when refitting.
Also also, when I took the pedal box out the pedal was a real sod to move, so really stiff. Is that normal?
Cheers.
chiefweasel
Member
PS - don't forget to deburr the plumbing pipe or you'll rip your hands up.
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
Great tip with the 15mm pipe, thanks. The pedal should be free to move, barring the resistance from the return springs. I had a similar experience with the eazi bleed kit and went back to the type with a valve in the hose that connects to the nipple - where you pump the pedal.
sp00k
Well-Known Member
There should be no resistance on the pedal. If it's stuck when in situ the fork is trashed.
I had the same issue as you with the bleed tool. I used the cap from my old master cylinder in place of the ones in the kit. If you've not got an old cap, maybe ptfe tape around before putting the closest fitting cap on.
I had the same issue as you with the bleed tool. I used the cap from my old master cylinder in place of the ones in the kit. If you've not got an old cap, maybe ptfe tape around before putting the closest fitting cap on.
