limeypete33 · Jul 3, 2019

Hey Guys,

Landy has been running fine, just had the turbo rebuilt and put some more miles on it the last couple of weeks with no issues. Until today at least. Driving out of my driveway, up a bit of a hill, under acceleration a loud bang occurred. Even felt it through the floorboards. I immediately stopped, took a look under expecting at least the exhaust to be hanging off, or some driveshaft/propshafts to have popped off or something - but it all looked ok.

Jumped back in, stuck it in first (felt fine) lifted the clutch (felt fine) but whent nowhere.I could shift gears but couldn't go anywhere. No sound even changed as I moved the clutch pedal in and out. I managed to safely roll the landy back onto my driveway, all the while it rolled fine, no clanking or anything.

Now I had to leave so I am not home to check on it at the moment and I didn't think to check the transfer case position. So perhaps it jumped out of 4H and into neutral. Otherwise what else could it be?

Let me know your thoughts, things to check etc. It's a 1990 200tdi defender 90.

Thanks!

jamesmartin · Jul 3, 2019

try that then diff lock

limeypete33 · Jul 4, 2019

jamesmartin said:
try that then diff lock

It moves when the diff lock is engaged, otherwise it doesn't move anywhere, even with the clutch all the way up it's like it's in neutral.

jamesmartin · Jul 4, 2019

limeypete33 said:
It moves when the diff lock is engaged, otherwise it doesn't move anywhere, even with the clutch all the way up it's like it's in neutral.

if it moves in diff lock when you take it out of diff lock and run it in gear does any of the props spin

limeypete33 · Jul 5, 2019

I think I can found the problem!
It appears that the needle bearings have slowly but surely departed the UJ and then it gave up the ghost.

You guys think I should look for a complete forward propshaft assembly? There is no point trying to save this one as far as I can tell, especially since if i replace the transfer case end it will need re balancing anyway.

Disco1BFG · Jul 5, 2019

limeypete33 said:
I think I can found the problem!
It appears that the needle bearings have slowly but surely departed the UJ and then it gave up the ghost.

You guys think I should look for a complete forward propshaft assembly? There is no point trying to save this one as far as I can tell, especially since if i replace the transfer case end it will need re balancing anyway.

Looks salvageable to me in the picture. I might suggest you also buy a greasegun

.... and use it

.....

limeypete33 · Jul 8, 2019

Disco1BFG said:
Looks salvageable to me in the picture. I might suggest you also buy a greasegun .... and use it .....

Yeah I think you are right on the greasegun part...... I will have a closer look at the propshaft and see if I can save it. One thing I don't understand is why the landy doesn't move unless in diff lock. Is it because with the forward flange just spinning with no resistance it doesn't spin the rear either?

lynall · Jul 8, 2019

Power is like electricity its lazy, so one or two wheels spinning 9cross locked) or in your case prop will stop the car dead.
New prop is the way to go and maybe refurb the old one at your leisure, but as its not seen grease the slider will also be worn and that makes the prop scrap.

marjon · Jul 8, 2019

limeypete33 said:
Is it because with the forward flange just spinning with no resistance it doesn't spin the rear either?

Yes. You will also get the same result if you break a front or rear driveshaft from the axle diff to wheel.

Google diff operation and it will come up with loads of animations and explanations.

When you lock it you effectively make the diff a straight through drive so both sides will turn at same speed.

On the UJs if 1 is like that I would be checking the others and would expect to find some more.

Grease gun is your friend for future

J

limeypete33 · Jul 8, 2019

marjon said:
Yes. You will also get the same result if you break a front or rear driveshaft from the axle diff to wheel.

Google diff operation and it will come up with loads of animations and explanations.

When you lock it you effectively make the diff a straight through drive so both sides will turn at same speed.

On the UJs if 1 is like that I would be checking the others and would expect to find some more.

Grease gun is your friend for future

J

I may just fill a hole in the ground waist high with grease and drive through it LOL

marjon · Jul 8, 2019

limeypete33 said:
I may just fill a hole in the ground waist high with grease and drive through it LOL

Well it’s a thought but I bet it still wouldn’t get in all the right place, unlike water

but they don’t seem to have the same properties

J

limeypete33 · Jul 9, 2019

Disco1BFG said:
Looks salvageable to me in the picture. I might suggest you also buy a greasegun .... and use it .....

So I pulled the propshaft out and I don't think I can save it - what do you guys think?

Also the bolts holding the flange to the transfer case end - any ideas how to get them out? They are too long to pull straight out as they hit the body of the transfer case. Only reason I would like one of them out is that one in particular took a pretty hard knock when the UJ went.

callisr · Jul 9, 2019

You will have to undo the big nut in the middle of the flange and remove the flange from the box in order to remove the prop bolts from the flange.
To undo the big nut, engage diff lock,
Apply hand brake, chock wheels and eat spinach!

Disco1BFG · Jul 9, 2019

limeypete33 said:
So I pulled the propshaft out and I don't think I can save it - what do you guys think?

Also the bolts holding the flange to the transfer case end - any ideas how to get them out? They are too long to pull straight out as they hit the body of the transfer case. Only reason I would like one of them out is that one in particular took a pretty hard knock when the UJ went.

Sadly, I think you are right. New prop time. Flip.

limeypete33 · Aug 22, 2019

Finally had some time to work on this and I have the replacement prop shaft ready to go in along with new bolts.

I ate a bunch of spinach and undid the big nut holding the drive flange on, got it out and removed the old bolts. My new bolts are a bit shorter and I checked the fit with the prop shaft and there is no reason to orient the bolts that way and trap them. But before I bolt everything back up is there any reason why I should orient them the original way?

Also my haynes manual states that the sliding end of the shaft should mount on the front diff. This is reversed compared to the prop shaft that I took out. I am assuming the haynes manual is correct?

Thanks!

zeaphod · Aug 22, 2019

I'll state the obvious - make sure the new propshaft is well greased before installing it - don't rely on the manufacturer having done it. I've had a new (blue bag) shaft fail because of a faulty UJ within a few thousand miles (one of the cups disintegrated), so in your position I would be installing new GKN UJs anyway before fitting the new prop.

limeypete33 · Aug 22, 2019

zeaphod said:
I'll state the obvious - make sure the new propshaft is well greased before installing it - don't rely on the manufacturer having done it. I've had a new (blue bag) shaft fail because of a faulty UJ within a few thousand miles (one of the cups disintegrated), so in your position I would be installing new GKN UJs anyway before fitting the new prop.

Yeah thanks for the tip - I am going to grease everything (not just the new propshaft) before the thing moves an inch! Also going to check the gearbox, diff and transfer case fluid levels etc.

tottot · Aug 22, 2019

Check/grease regular, recently have a mate who's prop let go on his tdci and it took out the gearbox casing

. Expensive.

Disco1BFG · Aug 22, 2019

limeypete33 said:
I am assuming the haynes manual is correct?

It is NOT !! ..... sliding end goes at the transfer case end.

wrdegenhardt · Aug 30, 2019

Watch out when torquing the flange nuts down!!!

First it's a little bit easier to remove the floor boards to allow some space for your tools

Second, make sure you have good nuts and bolts for your flange's.... I recently changed mine and the bolts were sub par and stripped while torquing....

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