Did you try that with bridge in the plug i mean you bridged the pins in the unplugged connector while the engine was running bad and nothing happened or you plugged back the switch? ...though if this symptom is MAF and AAP sensitive in the same manner it van be an ECU missbehaviour
 
tests

I made a jumper wire so I could replicate closed / open switch without pressing the clutch
1) switch closed ( normal position ) OK
2) Opened switch manually ( using a jumper so did not depress the clutch) revved and problem appeared.
3) Reconnected jumper wire-problem remains (so switch now closed again)
4) Switch off engine and re-start with switch closed via jumper wire problem gone.

odd???
 
I need to replicate these tests a few times before I am happy the results are sustained, but this is what I have found so far.
 
What if you start it with unplugged switch from the beginning? .... or if you unplug and reconnect the MAF or AAP.... is that the same?, or with unplugged MAF the clutch switch has no effect? ,,, i mean once the symptom starts it stays that way no matter what you do? cos in that case the ECU is very suspect
 
What if you start it with unplugged switch from the beginning? .... or if you unplug and reconnect the MAF or AAP.... is that the same?, or with unplugged MAF the clutch switch has no effect? ,,, i mean once the symptom starts it stays that way no matter what you do? cos in that case the ECU is very suspect
ye once it starts it does not seem to go away, I will do more tests on saturday and log results, along the lines of what you have suggested above.
 
Ok, it's been this way since you own it? ...if yes tell me the part number written on the ECU and the last 8 characters of the VIN to see if it's the original ECU or not
 
I bought in 2012, fine until around a year ago then poor starting get worse and worse, so

so I tried

New injector seals ( discovered injector roller mis-aligned and scoring cam so fitted new cam and injector rockers)
New Glow plugs fitted
New MAF MAP and ATS fitted
EGR deleted 2 years ago but fine
Now starts perfectly (half a turn), but appears to have developed this annoying & intermittent fault.

So I cured the starting problem, but trying seems I now have another problem!
To diagnose this fault I found a serious imbalance on two injectors, so replaced them as well.
So recently I have been considering the clutch switch or maybe the DMF / CSP as problem seems worse as soon as I press clutch or put into gear and move.

ECU NNNW00397W from my notes but i need to check
 
IMG_4361.JPG
IMG_4361.JPG
 
SALLDVA573A658414
Vehicle OE No : PMF500040
BHP : 122 Turbo Model : GT2052S
Turbo OE No :452239-0008
SALLDVA573A658414
Engine Number: 15P59158A
Date Of Registration: 30062003
Engine Size Litres: 2.5
Dvla Model: DEFENDER 90 TD5
Vehicle Id: 38385
Dvla Make: LAND ROVER
 
That from the picture is the firmware number not the part number and it's for 2002 defender while your's is from 2003, the part number must be on a lateral side and for that VIN should be NNN000120 or NNN500020 but it's clearely visible that the ECU comes from other vehicle.... IMO at this point you should try with other ECU to be ruled out before you rip all your hair with this odd problem
 
That's the firmware number not the part number, the part number must be on a lateral side and for that VIN should be NNN000120 or NNN500020.... IMO at this point you should try with other ECU to be ruled out before you rip all your hair with this odd problem
Ok I wont be able to take it out until Saturday to look, assuming its on the opposite side to the harness connections, then i will have to unbolt it to look?
 
Oh OK just seen the VIN number on the sticker sorry did not recognise it as a vin at first!
Right so i will remove ecu on Saturday and have a look at the label on rear, perhaps its one of the ones that has problems with the clutch switch?
Thank you for your help and knowledge and as you said my hair is beginning to come out!
 
That from the picture is the firmware number not the part number and it's for 2002 defender while your's is from 2003, the part number must be on a lateral side and for that VIN should be but it's clearely visible that the ECU comes from other vehicle.... IMO at this point you should try with other ECU to be ruled out before you rip all your hair with this odd problem
Is there any difference between the NNN000120 or NNN500020 is one better than the other in any way?
 
I was editing my post #30 i think while you quoted it and said that there :cool: ... the ECUs are the same but the tunes are different
 
Sorry for all the questions! and thank you so much for your help, appreciated.
I have to wait until Saturday for the next instalment of my quest!
 

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