Hi all just thought I would share my experience on a similar problem. The car is a 1988 ex military 90 with a I 200tdi conversion, when I test drove the car it was fine. I then found after a fairly long journey the clutch would slip in 5th.
Thinking it was the clutch (Small oil leak from housing)I removed the gearbox and found the clutch to be perfect hardly worn.
I repaired the oil leak and reassembled but the problem was still there, looking at the slave it looked old as was the flex pipe going to it (The master looked new) so I replaced the slave and flex pipe, still had the same problem.
Had a look at a mates defender when off roading found his to have some slack before the clutch took up mine was rock hard. changed the master cylinder and everything is fine.
Found the master cylinder was not allowing the fluid back into the reservoir so the pressure was holding in the circuit.
If you have the same problem it could have been masked by a leaky slave cylinder.
Mick
Thinking it was the clutch (Small oil leak from housing)I removed the gearbox and found the clutch to be perfect hardly worn.
I repaired the oil leak and reassembled but the problem was still there, looking at the slave it looked old as was the flex pipe going to it (The master looked new) so I replaced the slave and flex pipe, still had the same problem.
Had a look at a mates defender when off roading found his to have some slack before the clutch took up mine was rock hard. changed the master cylinder and everything is fine.
Found the master cylinder was not allowing the fluid back into the reservoir so the pressure was holding in the circuit.
If you have the same problem it could have been masked by a leaky slave cylinder.
Mick
Lyndon
Active Member
Im going to do the clutch tomorrow when i can get my hands on a crane to hold the gbox.
a few questions
1. where is the best place to hang the gear box so it is balanced nicely?
2. I have what seems to be an engine oil leak between the bellhousing and engine what do i need to do to replace whatever is leaking?
3. do you remove the gbox mounts from the chassie or do you remove the nut running through the rubber on the mount?
4 anything else i should know or do as it will be my first time removing a gearbox and i hope to not have to do it again fo a while!
piccys to follow once it is all done. thanks all
a few questions
1. where is the best place to hang the gear box so it is balanced nicely?
2. I have what seems to be an engine oil leak between the bellhousing and engine what do i need to do to replace whatever is leaking?
3. do you remove the gbox mounts from the chassie or do you remove the nut running through the rubber on the mount?
4 anything else i should know or do as it will be my first time removing a gearbox and i hope to not have to do it again fo a while!
piccys to follow once it is all done. thanks all
Maybe this is too late but here are some thoughts on your questions.
1. where is the best place to hang the gear box so it is balanced nicely?
The whole gearbox is pretty cumbersome, and it may be worth thinking about taking the transfer box off first. Depends how much help you have or the access/facilities.
2. I have what seems to be an engine oil leak between the bellhousing and engine what do i need to do to replace whatever is leaking?
Yes, this is the rear engine oil seal, which fits in the alloy rear housing that bolts onto the engine. You need to take off the flywheel to replace this not too expensive but be careful doing it as you can damage the new one putting it on. Make sure the lip faces inwards and is not crinkled as you fit it.
3. do you remove the gbox mounts from the chassie or do you remove the nut running through the rubber on the mount?
If I understand this right, it does not matter. Whichever is easier for you.
4 anything else i should know or do as it will be my first time removing a gearbox and i hope to not have to do it again fo a while!
Well, if it is slipping because of contamination on the clutch and you want to wait for warmer weather, I have a bodge for an oily slipping clutch. I got an oil leak with the bell housing wading pulg in so there was a couple of pints of oil sloshing around n ther and it was slipping a lot, but not worn out.
Fit a piece of thin hose into the drain at the bottom of the bell housing and run in a couple of pints of paraffin/kerosine and run the engine with the clutch wedged down and the car in high 5th (so it will stall if the stick holding the clutch down moves). Leave it for 30 mins or so. Switch off and drain out the sludge. I did this twice and having left the plug out I now get a little drip when it is parked but no slipping and I will do it after the winter.
1. where is the best place to hang the gear box so it is balanced nicely?
The whole gearbox is pretty cumbersome, and it may be worth thinking about taking the transfer box off first. Depends how much help you have or the access/facilities.
2. I have what seems to be an engine oil leak between the bellhousing and engine what do i need to do to replace whatever is leaking?
Yes, this is the rear engine oil seal, which fits in the alloy rear housing that bolts onto the engine. You need to take off the flywheel to replace this not too expensive but be careful doing it as you can damage the new one putting it on. Make sure the lip faces inwards and is not crinkled as you fit it.
3. do you remove the gbox mounts from the chassie or do you remove the nut running through the rubber on the mount?
If I understand this right, it does not matter. Whichever is easier for you.
4 anything else i should know or do as it will be my first time removing a gearbox and i hope to not have to do it again fo a while!
Well, if it is slipping because of contamination on the clutch and you want to wait for warmer weather, I have a bodge for an oily slipping clutch. I got an oil leak with the bell housing wading pulg in so there was a couple of pints of oil sloshing around n ther and it was slipping a lot, but not worn out.
Fit a piece of thin hose into the drain at the bottom of the bell housing and run in a couple of pints of paraffin/kerosine and run the engine with the clutch wedged down and the car in high 5th (so it will stall if the stick holding the clutch down moves). Leave it for 30 mins or so. Switch off and drain out the sludge. I did this twice and having left the plug out I now get a little drip when it is parked but no slipping and I will do it after the winter.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
best place to hang gear box and tbox which are best left as one if you have engine crane is the drivers side bolt or stud of the 2 top bolts securing t/box to g/box it holds it level but a little nose heavy level been more important,remove mounts from chassis and from rubber you will need room to move boxes for refitting ,use crane to lift lower box for ease of removing fastenings then lower box down till weight nearly all on engine ,support engine and remove rest of bolts and pull out
