Lyndon

Active Member
Hi all, after a week of topping up my clutch fluid every time I needed to drive anywhere I finally decided to change my slave cylinder. After putting the new one in my bite point is right at the top of my pedal. It's all bled through fine and the pedal has plenty of resistance so is this a sign my clutch is on its last legs?

Cheers in advance!
 
Hi all, after a week of topping up my clutch fluid every time I needed to drive anywhere I finally decided to change my slave cylinder. After putting the new one in my bite point is right at the top of my pedal. It's all bled through fine and the pedal has plenty of resistance so is this a sign my clutch is on its last legs?

Cheers in advance!
any probs with gear change?
 
Hmmmm - the thicker the clutch plate, then the further out the release bearing will sit, so the push rod will be back further back. So as the slave starts to move, the clutch will be disengaged and then lots of travel still to go because the slave is starting from the beginning of it's possible travel (sounds like what you have). The problem with this scenario is that when the plate does wear, it will try and push back into the slave further, but it can't because it's already fully in, then it will always be acting on the release bearing slightly (not good for it) and eventually it won't let it come back far enough so the clutch will always be slightly disengaged and it will slip.

When it's worn and thin, the bearing moves in and the push rod will sit further out. Once it bites it will not have a lot of travel after it because the slave will be starting from a further out position.

If the clutch pedal and all the rods are properly set then the pedal should actually start to actuate a new or worn clutch at about the same point (hydraulic clutches are self adjusting).

So, you could, shim the slave out a bit (there are shims available). So that there is a bit of slack before it disengages the clutch.

Yours is only biting near the top, so it could be that the push rod on the master and or the pedal is not allowing the master to come fully out.
 
Hmmmm - the thicker the clutch plate, then the further out the release bearing will sit, so the push rod will be back further back. So as the slave starts to move, the clutch will be disengaged and then lots of travel still to go because the slave is starting from the beginning of it's possible travel (sounds like what you have). The problem with this scenario is that when the plate does wear, it will try and push back into the slave further, but it can't because it's already fully in, then it will always be acting on the release bearing slightly (not good for it) and eventually it won't let it come back far enough so the clutch will always be slightly disengaged and it will slip.

When it's worn and thin, the bearing moves in and the push rod will sit further out. Once it bites it will not have a lot of travel after it because the slave will be starting from a further out position.

If the clutch pedal and all the rods are properly set then the pedal should actually start to actuate a new or worn clutch at about the same point (hydraulic clutches are self adjusting).

So, you could, shim the slave out a bit (there are shims available). So that there is a bit of slack before it disengages the clutch.

Yours is only biting near the top, so it could be that the push rod on the master and or the pedal is not allowing the master to come fully out.


Thanks, this is very interesting as im only now delving into the murkey world of clutch repairs.

I have only had the car about 14 days so my knowledge is limited on what has been done as it came with no history but i do know there is a new master cylinder fitted as it was shiny and new when i opened the bonnet!

How do i know if it is set correctly? fyi the bite point has always been high since i got it. its slighty higher now but not a huge diffrence to what it was before and i have no problem selecting gears.

Thanks everyone for your answers :)
 
Right then, have the day off so I thought i would see if the rod was aligned in the slave cylinder correctly so removed my slave and now the push rod is now in my hands!! I have a horrible feeling this is not going to be fun!!

What do i do now?
 
push rod can be held back in socket in release arm while pushing slave cylinder against it to hold it while you push and secure slave to gearbox once fitted there is allways pressure from slave on arm through rod ,and rod will stay in place,i allways hold rod while removing slave as gaiter on slave often pulls rod out ,i have had to do this quite a few times ,
 
push rod can be held back in socket in release arm while pushing slave cylinder against it to hold it while you push and secure slave to gearbox once fitted there is allways pressure from slave on arm through rod ,and rod will stay in place,i allways hold rod while removing slave as gaiter on slave often pulls rod out ,i have had to do this quite a few times ,


I was hoping it could be this easy, you sir have no idea how happy you have just made me!

I had horrible visions of having to remove my gear box and hours more work!
 
and if it isn't fiddly enough already (and if james says fiddly, it must be a toughy), take some piccys while you're at it:D

Seriously - hope it goes well for you
 
Right oh, I'm waiting for something to go wrong as that was to easy and when that happens it normally means something has gone wrong.
 

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I just poked the rod in the slave and made sure it was as level as possible when it went back in the hole, i tightened both bolst up a little at a time working from one to the other so it would stay as level as possible, refitted all the pipe work and bled the clutch back up and took her for a short test spin.

The bite point is back where it should be and the gear changes are normal but i did notice a small noise from the relese bearing as i was reversing back into my space. a long test drive this evening should show up any problems!

I will keep you all updated with the progress, thanks to everyone for their help!
 
Well...... all is not so good after all the clutch is now slipping :( so im going to have a go at my first clutch change over the next few days and im thinking of doing an idiots guide as its my first clutch change and if it will help others i will take a few photos and do a step by step.

Im going to go get the parts tomorrow with the plan to start it sunday/monday

what should i get? its a 1990 110 SV 200tdi

Which kit is the best value for money? if britpart ones are shocking then whats the next step up in quality? i cant afford a borg :(

I will reinforce the fork with a welded plate.

I seem to have an oil leak which could be old fluid from the slave change or is there a seal i should be replacing while im there?

I think im going to try the lower the gear box approach as removing theengine sounds more difficult ( pleasefeel free to enlighten me if im wrong) anything a first timer should know?

Thanks all, piccys to follow!
 
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if you have engiune crane or the use of one is easier,stc8358bb clutch kit is best but i have fitted qiute a few britaprt ones stc8358 is cheapest kit and ftc2957hd fork
 
i was going to say just did mine and it so much less hassle if you remove the passenger side wing but looks like you already pulled the push rod out
 
i was going to say just did mine and it so much less hassle if you remove the passenger side wing but looks like you already pulled the push rod out


Im confused:confused: how will removing the passenger side wing help?

My plan was to remove center tunnel, passenger and drivers foot wells, lower gbox with engine crane to rest on cross member, change clutch & bearing and bolt it all back up and drive away a happy man:)

If it all goes well im hoping to spend less than 8 hours start to finish
 

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