Might also be worth checking the pedal pivot for wear while you are digging around with the top cover off. You may find that a combination of lots of little things add up to a large amount of slack in the system.
Although it could also be a hydraulic/or clutch fork issue. Does rapidly pumping the pedal have any effect on the point at which it disengages?
No, pumping never made any improvement, it was all down to the twin nuts on the shaft of the master cylinder piston. Somehow the locknut had come loose and they'd both made their way up the shaft towards the MS, leaving about a quarter inch of play between them and the lever knuckle they bear up against. However, carrying out what should have been a quick and simple adjustment to take up the play again was anything but as I found it impossible to get two open-ended spanners into the box with enough wiggle room to turn a single flat. A little bit more space would have made all the difference. I had to grind down both sides of one of the spanners in order to complete the job. :(
 
Proud to say its NOT mine, just one I googled!:p:D
Ha, ha never thought it was. Just pulling ya leg. ;)

However, carrying out what should have been a quick and simple adjustment to take up the play again was anything but as I found it impossible to get two open-ended spanners into the box with enough wiggle room to turn a single flat. A little bit more space would have made all the difference. I had to grind down both sides of one of the spanners in order to complete the job. :(
Aye, it's tighter than a mouse's ear in there! :eek::)
 
No, pumping never made any improvement, it was all down to the twin nuts on the shaft of the master cylinder piston. Somehow the locknut had come loose and they'd both made their way up the shaft towards the MS, leaving about a quarter inch of play between them and the lever knuckle they bear up against. However, carrying out what should have been a quick and simple adjustment to take up the play again was anything but as I found it impossible to get two open-ended spanners into the box with enough wiggle room to turn a single flat. A little bit more space would have made all the difference. I had to grind down both sides of one of the spanners in order to complete the job. :(
Yep, I have a cheap spanner I have cut down to fit as well. It is in the drawer of special home made Land Rover tools along with the piece of high tensile studding and washers for pulling series chassis bushes and the large box spanner with a socket welded to it to torque up hub nuts!
 
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Yep, I have a cheap spanner I have cut down to fit as well. It is in the drawer of special home made Land Rover tools along with the piece of high tensile studding and washers for pulling series chassis bushes and the large box spanner with a socket welded to it to torque up hub nuts!
i have a cheap 1/2 inch combination spanner with a slot cut in it
 
i have a cheap 1/2 inch combination spanner with a slot cut in it
That's probably the best way to do it, actually, if I get your drift correctly. You'd only need to cut a notch a few mil deep on the side of the handle of the spanner to get the necessary wriggle room to be able to turn those nuts 60 degrees (or one flat) at a time. Not as grim as it sounds as we're only talking a handful of threads. You're obviously a highly clued-up individual.
 

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