W

woodboy

New Member
series 2a petrol swb has developed a sticky clutch. I can engage gear very well most of the time, but when letting the clutch pedal back up, it has started to stick. I've started the habit of lifting it up the last bit with my foot under the pedal. Today, when reversing up a short steep slope, the clutch started to slip. On the flat going forward, i've not noticed it slipping... yet.

Any body got any suggestions as to a possible remedy?

Thanks..
 
Hi,

If you can lift the pedal, my first move would be to see if the pedal is stiff on its fulcrum pin. Yes, there should be a spring under the dash, but sometimes the stiffness beats the spring.

Obvious answer is a squirt of WD40 ..... but its never worked for me. Remove the pedal box, then play it by ear .... I usually use a big hammer to drive the pin out, then clean it up with an old file.

602
 
Its a hydraulic clutch , so after checking the previous posts, maybe flush the system out through the slave cylinder and check your pedal height adustment, and for any leaks in the system.
 
first thing id do is check behind the clutch peddle for signs off fluid coming down if there some there its your master thats playing up but may not be the only problem do you no wen the last clutch change was? also undo the top 6 screws on the top off the clutch peddle box to and pull the rubber down and see if theres any fluid round there check adjustment at both cylinders if there no problem's up to this point it will be something inside hope this helps
 
Hi,

The problem is said to be that the clutch pedal does not return of it own accord. It should be forced back by the pressure plate springs .... but OK, a fluid leak can stop that happening ..... then there is a secondary means of return - the spring under the dash board. It loks line both are failing to do their duty.

First thing is to depress pedal, then let it go. Nil returnum? Pull it back by hand. Then try to wobble the pedal fore and aft. There should be a smidgen of free play. I bet your pedal doesn't "dangle" freely. Pedal siezed on shaft.

602
 
Thanks for all the helpful comments. I will be trying to put them into practice sometime over the weekend.. will let you know which one puts it right! (I hope!)

T
 
right, i've had a good look and based on the evidence, i think the pedal is seized. there's no dangle where there should be. its solid. until today i didn't even know where the pedal box was, so i'm feeling my way here. no sign of fluid, on pedal or around rubber on master cylinder. i could see no way of getting the pedal pin out without disconecting the hydraulics.. too much pressure on the rod which connects cylinder to the pedal. so thats as far as i could go until i have help for bleeding. i have wd40'd the pedal pin and that has helped a bit, but not really sorted it.

can anybody please tell me the steps i need to take to get this pedal pin out? I've studied the manual but i'm still not sure the right way to just sort the seized pedal pin. i'm sure i can sort this out with a few pointers.

thanks all.
T
 
have a look at busters photos repairs on this forum, i think his is a defender but not too diferent, the master cyclinder needs to come out first
 
thanks steve, looks like might be best to take the whole bracket off, master cylinder an all. would it be best to disconnect the pipes where they join the cylinder?

will brakes need bleeding as a result?

T
 
hi
yes take the pipe off the master cylinder, and seal the end old to stop the leaks,
then there are 6 bolts fixing it to bulkhead

once you get it out the pedal bush is lubricated with oil there is a little plug to remove and top up with engine oil

if you have the early combined brake/ clutch reservoir you may need to bleed brakes
 
Okay, should be able to tackle this now. Whilst working on it yesterday, I found that little bolt in the end of the pedal pin, took it out and gave the cavity a good dose of wd40. I might keep an eye on it 'till the weekend and see if its worked in, and try and get some oil in there too. If that works, I may have saved a few hours work, if not, least i can now put it right. Cheers Steve.

In mean time, I'm well on the way to having two newly painted wheels, the other two to follow soon. Quite pleased how things went.. ran the wheels down to kwikfit who popped the tyres off for nowt, wire brush in drill and sandpaper and elbow grease front and back of each wheel, and two coats of hammerite primer on, and looking good. Limestone gloss from paddocks on tomorrow and then just the other two to go. Rest of her looks pretty good, be pleased to get tidy set of wheels to finnish things of. To have set of 4 sand blasted and powder coated was about £300, so pleased I tried this first..
 
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