Jamiegreen · Mar 8, 2018

Heey, soo just wondering.. my clutch (D2) has about 3cm where it doesn't do anything, it's like it's loose and floppy untill you push it down that 3cm and you feel it actually pull the cable or whatever it does..
Is there ant sorta adjuster on the clutch to tighten it back up?

And just to kill 2 birds..1 stone.. can my very oily ECU plug/harness cause some white smoke on cold starts, although it doesn't idle that rough or anything, but does intermittently loose power, smoke goes away after short drive. No loss of coolant or oil.

Hellastony · Mar 8, 2018

Jamie,

I can't really comment on the clutch as I have an auto, but I do know they are not adjustable as they are hydraulic, and are infamous for being difficult to bleed properly. I'm sure someone with greater knowledge than I in relation to manuals will be along shortly.

As regards your oily loom, this can cause all sorts of issues, particularly if it has got so bad if the oil has found its way actually into the ECU which it does if left unsorted. Strongly suggest that you replace the injector loom with a GENUINE Land Rover one, NOT an OEM supposedly, and keep cleaning out the red plug for some time until oil ceases to appear there. You need to do it anyway, and then see if it resolves your problems. If you have someone local to you with a Nanocom, get it plugged in and read the faults and live data to see what is going on.

Tony

Jamiegreen · Mar 8, 2018

Hellastony said:
Jamie,

I can't really comment on the clutch as I have an auto, but I do know they are not adjustable as they are hydraulic, and are infamous for being difficult to bleed properly. I'm sure someone with greater knowledge than I in relation to manuals will be along shortly.

As regards your oily loom, this can cause all sorts of issues, particularly if it has got so bad if the oil has found its way actually into the ECU which it does if left unsorted. Strongly suggest that you replace the injector loom with a GENUINE Land Rover one, NOT an OEM supposedly, and keep cleaning out the red plug for some time until oil ceases to appear there. You need to do it anyway, and then see if it resolves your problems. If you have someone local to you with a Nanocom, get it plugged in and read the faults and live data to see what is going on.

Tony

Hey, I don't think it's got too bad with the oil.. it did drip out the plug but I've seen worse.. I've got a Hawkeye but hasn't thrown any codes at me other than a bad airflow sensor, was sort of avoiding doing it yet but I've got a recently replaced loom in my other landy so I'll pop that in and see if it fixes the white smoke. Suppose I cantc avoid it forever, thing needs a service badly anyway

Maybe with the clutch if the pedal bit could just be tightened and not so much the cable to remove the free play but I have no idea..

Thanks

Hellastony · Mar 8, 2018

Jamiegreen said:
Hey, I don't think it's got too bad with the oil.. it did drip out the plug but I've seen worse.. I've got a Hawkeye but hasn't thrown any codes at me other than a bad airflow sensor, was sort of avoiding doing it yet but I've got a recently replaced loom in my other landy so I'll pop that in and see if it fixes the white smoke. Suppose I cantc avoid it forever, thing needs a service badly anyway

Maybe with the clutch if the pedal bit could just be tightened and not so much the cable to remove the free play but I have no idea..

Thanks

Jamie,

The clutch is HYDRAULIC, NOT cable, and can't be adjusted. I know many have advised to wedge the pedal down overnight with a piece of wood, as this is supposed to allow air to vent upwards to the master cylinder, but I guess it will only work if air in the system is the problem, as opposed to actuator fork or similar.

Tony

andy85 · Mar 8, 2018

I thought the fork was only a problem on d1?

Jamiegreen · Mar 8, 2018

Hellastony said:
Jamie,

The clutch is HYDRAULIC, NOT cable, and can't be adjusted. I know many have advised to wedge the pedal down overnight with a piece of wood, as this is supposed to allow air to vent upwards to the master cylinder, but I guess it will only work if air in the system is the problem, as opposed to actuator fork or similar.

Tony

Oops my bad, wrong word.. was in a rush

I don't think it's air it feels more like the pedal doesn't even engage with whatever it is till it goes down that little bit, like it maybe was more a problem with the pedal mechanism having free play or something.. don't know guess I'll have to pop my head in and have a look, it doesn't affect the clutch so it's not a problem.

Jamiegreen

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Hellastony

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Jamiegreen

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Hellastony

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andy85

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Jamiegreen

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