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Simba9

New Member
Replaced master and slave cylinders recently. while out locally I was unable to engage 1st gear and then after some time the 2nd. Eventually managed to get it back home on 3rd but by this time although I was able to press the clutch pedal the clutch would not release. Thinking it needed to be bled I left it until the weather improves. Tried pressing the clutch pedal today and it goes down an inch and no more. Fluid level ok. Can anybody suggest what the problem might be. This landy has hardly been used in the last year or so.
 
Sounds like air in the system, if I leave mine for a long period of time it seems to leak a bit when it is not in use but stops when I use it regularly
 
Air in the system would not stop the pedal travel. The pedal would still go all the way but the clutch would not release. You've got a mechanical issue at either end of the system. I would guess (I'm a Rangie man) that it's the connection into/inside the bell housing. You could experiment by releasing the pipe and trying the pedal. If it travels and pumps fluid out of the master then that's O.K. Then try moving the arm from the slave into the bell housing, you'll need a lever.

Don't assume that, because the cylinders are new, that they're not at fault.
 
I will need to split the engine and gearbox or pay £355 for a full clutch replacement. can some one please advise as whether is easier to remove the engine or the gearbox. If i do it myself I'll have to do it outside as I dont have a garage but I'm not in a hurry. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Simba9 said:
I will need to split the engine and gearbox or pay £355 for a full clutch replacement. can some one please advise as whether is easier to remove the engine or the gearbox. If i do it myself I'll have to do it outside as I dont have a garage but I'm not in a hurry. Any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Its worth having a look at the box under the master cylinder where the pedal lever is connected too. It might need a little adjustment up or down , and it wont cost anything. :cool:
 
Sam's picture thread is very good and involves removing the box. Would it not be less work to remove the engine and replace the clutch/fork.
 
I Had this on my 1st 90, cluch fork had twisted in the end and jamed the relese bearing made a right squeel when i pushed the clutch but it wouldnt full depress,

I did my 30 tdi clutch he other day, with an engine crane engine out was simple,

Took front water hoses and turbo hoses off, removed rad and intercooler so I dint damage them and got a little more space, transmission tunnel off, snorkel pipe and air box off left fuel lines on tho, few bols on the bell housing and forward it comes
 
Warrior, how did you manage to get away with leaving the fuel lines on and how far did you have to move the engine to do your clutch?
 
Just did it moved foward maybe 6 or 8 " was more than enough room even changed the bronze bush easy to remove, even if you had to remove the to fuel lines its only 2 bolts,
 
Unbolted the slave and found that the push rod had come off the fork whch explains the stuck pedal. I had ordered a new push rod and so decided to replace it. Found that the old one was about 6-8mm shorter!!!. Bolted the slave back on with the new push rod and got my clutch back. However the clutch does not seem to be able to hold the pressure ie with the clutch fully pressed and in gear the clutch starts to drag and the car starts to move slowly. Could this be the Master not holding the pressure. No fluid loss. Any help on what might be the problem?
 
Simba9 said:
Unbolted the slave and found that the push rod had come off the fork whch explains the stuck pedal. I had ordered a new push rod and so decided to replace it. Found that the old one was about 6-8mm shorter!!!. Bolted the slave back on with the new push rod and got my clutch back. However the clutch does not seem to be able to hold the pressure ie with the clutch fully pressed and in gear the clutch starts to drag and the car starts to move slowly. Could this be the Master not holding the pressure. No fluid loss. Any help on what might be the problem?
Click to expand...

clutch forks already been mentioned:rolleyes:try that
 
the push rod has definitely not gone through the fork. i could see that when I took the slave off. could there be more wrong with the fork?
 
Hi, I'm replacing the clutch on my 110. Paddocs are selling AP Driveline Clutch Kit (plate, cover and release bearing). Are these clutches any good or should i look for another make? any suggestions? there is the option of Brit part but the reviews don't seem to be positive.
:confused:
 
Simba9 said:
Hi, I'm replacing the clutch on my 110. Paddocs are selling AP Driveline Clutch Kit (plate, cover and release bearing). Are these clutches any good or should i look for another make? any suggestions? there is the option of Brit part but the reviews don't seem to be positive.
:confused:
Click to expand...

I have run the Britpart HD clutch in my much abused Disco for the last 18 months without an issue
 
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