F

Fleety

New Member
Hi there all... :welcome:
I have an issue with freelander not going into gear when engine is hot.
1.8 petrol k series .
I have changed master and slave and bracket. Rebuilt as water pump threw cam. Engine now running sweet and goes into gear when cold.
I've got to the point of no return... I must repair.....!!! :doh::doh::doh:

I have talked to clutch centres and they say that they have replaced to find that it hasn't fixed this issue still, also talking to a friend they suggested it maybe the (Viscous Coupling Unit) causing it not to go into gear when hot......
Arghhhhhhhhhh somebody help ????

This just doesn't make sense if it was the clutch.... Then wouldn't it be all the time not going into gear...???

Anyone with any info it would be a great help to a novice owner...
Who bought this to tow a boat i.e. slipways when wet
 
Viscous coupling unit VCU won't stop you selecting gear. It's located between the 2 prop shafts and connects the rear wheels.
 
Thank you... I was a little bit bewildered with vcu as to why it would stop u getting into gear... I read up last night on them and couldn't understand why it would cause a problem as such with gears..... I also know my way round a vehicle i.e. mechanics.
This is why I have posted about it because it doesn't make sense why it's doing this when hot...
Thanks again
 
Just disconnect the rear prop and go into FWD mode....then simply drive it....if prob persists then how can it possibly be the VCU ???
 
There's no problem in removing the vcu. Easier to remove both props and the vcu at the same time. Don't let the vcu fall with the props still connected.
 
The VCU sit midway down the cars length and central....the rear prop is in 2 halfs one in front off the VCU and one behind it. Disconnect the forward part of rear prop from the IRD and the rear part from the back diff. Then unbolt the vcu and lower it SLOWLY to the ground. Then your hippo is in FWD only. Drive it and see if the probs gone or not, depending on result refit it or drive it as is until you have a new VCU if found faulty.

Personally Id look at the arm from the gear lever in the car, it passes thro the floor and connects to 2 arms that go forward to the gearbox. Are they set properly or bent out of shape ? Also consider the arm that acts on the clutch that passes thro the gearbox casing.....ive had one almost seize stiff......is it free ?
These 2 issues may not be related to a engine heating up but are directly related gearbox set up and or a clutch clearing enough to allow smooth gearshifts....G luck.
 
dippydave666 said:
The VCU sit midway down the cars length and central....the rear prop is in 2 halfs one in front off the VCU and one behind it. Disconnect the forward part of rear prop from the IRD and the rear part from the back diff. Then unbolt the vcu and lower it SLOWLY to the ground. Then your hippo is in FWD only. Drive it and see if the probs gone or not, depending on result refit it or drive it as is until you have a new VCU if found faulty.

Personally Id look at the arm from the gear lever in the car, it passes thro the floor and connects to 2 arms that go forward to the gearbox. Are they set properly or bent out of shape ? Also consider the arm that acts on the clutch that passes thro the gearbox casing.....ive had one almost seize stiff......is it free ?
These 2 issues may not be related to a engine heating up but are directly related gearbox set up and or a clutch clearing enough to allow smooth gearshifts....G luck.
Click to expand...
Hi there
Thanks for the write up on removal of props and vcu... I take it u can damage it if u let it drop then...?? Great advice !! As for gear shift mechanism replaced a day ago as it had quite a lot of play in bush thought this may of been issue but sadly not... :violin:
Also checked arm to check if free and it is... Also tried new master and slave as fluid was a milky colour.... But sadly no again... Also modified slave bracket by elongating and packing of gearbox as piston was coming out at a 30 degree angle from slave.. Now comes out parallel when pushed... This may of been cause of milky fluid...
Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and split the box... Just not my luck after rebuilding engine....
Thanks for the info... Will try vcu first...
 
snapper said:
have you got the right oil in the gearbox?
Click to expand...
Hi there snapper.....
I did check gear box oil.... Levels are correct... But not sure if correct ... Is there any way of testing to see the grade..?? It's definitely gear box oil
As we all know.... It stinks....:eek:
 
You should have MTF94 in there, which is quite thin and whilst smelly, no where near as smelly as thicker EP80/90...

If it were me, I would drain the gearbox and refill with the correct amount of MTF94 before starting to dismantle things.
 
Last edited:
also lubricate the clutch operating arm where it disappears in bell housing, if you have been reversing your boat quite a bit with the freely, you could have overheated the clutch and distorted the clutch plate as the reverse ratio is quite high.
 
Does the manual gearbox and starting system allow you to start the car in gear? I have the auto so not sure about that. It would allow you to have the car in gear that way, as long as it's a good battery.

You said you modified the slave bracket, is it rock solid ? as any give there reduces the effective lever travel
 
freelance said:
also lubricate the clutch operating arm where it disappears in bell housing, if you have been reversing your boat quite a bit with the freely, you could have overheated the clutch and distorted the clutch plate as the reverse ratio is quite high.
Click to expand...
Hi there thanks for comment... But no reversing with boat yet... Bought
Boat after freelander . Also arm is free moving and not seized...
Thanks :)
 
FreeTaz said:
Does the manual gearbox and starting system allow you to start the car in gear? I have the auto so not sure about that. It would allow you to have the car in gear that way, as long as it's a good battery.

You said you modified the slave bracket, is it rock solid ? as any give there reduces the effective lever travel
Click to expand...
Hi there taz ... Yes it allows me to get into gear when engine is off..
Also when cold... As for the flimsy...!! Bracket ..!! Which has got to be
The worst design in history... No play at all.. I have elongated holes,
Welded another Plate to the back to make stronger also I have packed
Rear with washers as the slave piston was coming out at a wierd angle when
Pressed.. It now comes out straight .. I changed this as the master fluid was white
So obviously letting air or moisture in... Also replaced master and slave...
I am going to change gearbox oil this weekend to see if this makes a difference...

Thanks for all your comments guys...! Much appreciated :)
 
snapper said:
You should have MTF94 in there, which is quite thin and whilst smelly, no where near as smelly as thicker EP80/90...

If it were me, I would drain the gearbox and refill with the correct amount of MTF94 before starting to dismantle things.
Click to expand...
Hi snapper..
Thanks for info... Am going to do oil change at weekend so fingers crossed
The oil wasn't that thick but just to be safe I will change...
Any idea of best place to get gearbox oil..? :)
 
Fleety said:
Hi snapper..
Thanks for info... Am going to do oil change at weekend so fingers crossed
The oil wasn't that thick but just to be safe I will change...
Any idea of best place to get gearbox oil..? :)
Click to expand...

Hi

I got mine from the local LR dealer.
Its about £10 a litre (in single litre bottles) but not much cheaper elsewhere after you have added postage etc.
You could see if there is a local independent LR mechanic nearby who might have some to sell you?
Part number is STC9158

Good luck - don't forget to make sure you can get the filler plug off before draining the oil...
 
I've come access a few Freelanders where the clutch pedal has worn oval where the master cylinder clevis pin goes. This will cause lots of lost motion.
 
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