pos

pos

Well-Known Member
evening chaps,

Ever sinse i got my 1986 90 (12J), the gearbox will make a loud rattle when in neutral. Pressing the clutch stops this for a while, then what ever it is loosens back off and rattles again. Recently I've noticed that this sound is starting to appear when i put my foot down on the clutch too. Any dieas as to what it is and what I can do to try and fix it?

Thanks in advance
-Pos
 
Well if it is the clutch it is going to be a gearbox drop - engine out in your case would be easier job to change the clutch.

It sounds like it may be the clutch cover, had this with our 300tdi before its clutch cover broke. This is the part with the diaphragm spring that the release bearing pushes to release the clutch.

So could be its rattling away when in neutral and when it was under pressure the loose/rattling pieces were held in place but its possibly about to go - it will just suddenly go now more or less. Start learning to drive with no clutch, you will have it mastered in a few days then you don't need to worry when it dies at the most inconvenient moment.
 
Doesnt sound like a clutch problem, i reckon it'l be the input gear going into your gearbox rattling against the gear next to it. Putting your foot on the clutch stops it from rattling because it effectivly removes the some of the vibration being transmitted from the engine. Just a thought.
 
clutch, just have a new one fitted i had the same problem a few weeks ago, turned out that the flywheel was out of line so it was replaced. much better now.
 
Layshaft bearings

Could last a while or pack up with no notice and lots of noise, common fault on the old LT95 when someone puts EP90 in it and buggers the oil pump in the box so could also happen on an LT77.
 
ChrisV8 said:
Layshaft bearings

Could last a while or pack up with no notice and lots of noise, common fault on the old LT95 when someone puts EP90 in it and buggers the oil pump in the box so could also happen on an LT77.
Click to expand...

Alright Chris, are any of the gearbox components spinning without lube at idle?

Riggaz
 
riggaz said:
Alright Chris, are any of the gearbox components spinning without lube at idle?

Riggaz
Click to expand...

Of course they are spinning, but unless you drained the gearbox how could it be without lube?

What a silly question.

Here's the way it works:

In NEUTRAL, with the clutch pedal UP and the engine running, the clutch plate drives the gearbox input shaft all the time AT ENGINE SPEED.

This is the FIRST MOTION SHAFT.

It is permanently GEARED to the LAYGEAR - the SECOND Motion Shaft.

It is also sitting end to end with the OUTPUT SHAFT - THIRD Motion shaft, but except in ONE circumstance is not JOINED to it. They just fit end-to-end with a little bearing between them.

On the THIRD Motion Shaft are fitted the SPEED GEARS, and because all these are CONSTANT MESH gearboxes, all four or five speed gears are always in mesh with the laygear. The speed gears spin freely on the 3rd motion shaft.

So .... in answer to the question, turning is the 1st motion shaft, the 2nd motion shaft, all the constant mesh speed gears, and the oil pump.

And despite all that, you ain't going anywhere!

CharlesY
 
CharlesY said:
Of course they are spinning, but unless you drained the gearbox how could it be without lube?

What a silly question.

Here's the way it works:

In NEUTRAL, with the clutch pedal UP and the engine running, the clutch plate drives the gearbox input shaft all the time AT ENGINE SPEED.

This is the FIRST MOTION SHAFT.

It is permanently GEARED to the LAYGEAR - the SECOND Motion Shaft.

It is also sitting end to end with the OUTPUT SHAFT - THIRD Motion shaft, but except in ONE circumstance is not JOINED to it. They just fit end-to-end with a little bearing between them.

On the THIRD Motion Shaft are fitted the SPEED GEARS, and because all these are CONSTANT MESH gearboxes, all four or five speed gears are always in mesh with the laygear. The speed gears spin freely on the 3rd motion shaft.

So .... in answer to the question, turning is the 1st motion shaft, the 2nd motion shaft, all the constant mesh speed gears, and the oil pump.

And despite all that, you ain't going anywhere!

CharlesY
Click to expand...

I was wondering why land rover says to drive away from start up and not to let it idle
 
riggaz said:
I was wondering why land rover says to drive away from start up and not to let it idle
Click to expand...

I thought this was the same for all cars. An idling engine takes longer to get to it's optimum temperature. Driving straight away (but not ragging it) heats it up quicker.

(exactly what TMHM said, so sorry for duplication)

I had a related thought recently about this. Is it best to leave the heater/blower off until the engine has got to it's correct temp otherwise you are pulling heat away from the system? Does this not act like a stuck thermostat in that it would push coolant through the radiator cooling it when the engine needs to retain heat. Or is the difference nominal compared to sitting in a freezing car for 10 minutes.

/Mad
 
Got exactly this problem with my 300tdi disco pos. i think the guy who did the clutch last time (for the person who owned it before me) had never done one before as it judders slightly so i think its badly alligned as well.

let me know what you find out if you decide to fix it!

cheers!
 
TheMunster said:
Got exactly this problem with my 300tdi disco pos. i think the guy who did the clutch last time (for the person who owned it before me) had never done one before as it judders slightly so i think its badly alligned as well.

let me know what you find out if you decide to fix it!

cheers!
Click to expand...
what do yer think is badly aligned?
and if yer drive off straight away on a cold morning you wint be able to see ****. if its like that ,which round these ear parts int very often' i tend to let it tick over fer 15mins with demister on so i can see where am going
 
slob said:
what do yer think is badly aligned?
Click to expand...

dunno why i typed that..i'm tired. think my clutch judder is probably just oil on the plate, gonna fit the wading plug for a day or two and see if any oil builds up.

are there any common reasons, or regular faults for clutch judder on the disco/defender?
 
slob said:
what do yer think is badly aligned?
and if yer drive off straight away on a cold morning you wint be able to see ****. if its like that ,which round these ear parts int very often' i tend to let it tick over fer 15mins with demister on so i can see where am going
Click to expand...

My heated front screen in my 90 works well enough
 
Madcowz said:
I thought this was the same for all cars. An idling engine takes longer to get to it's optimum temperature. Driving straight away (but not ragging it) heats it up quicker.

(exactly what TMHM said, so sorry for duplication)

I had a related thought recently about this. Is it best to leave the heater/blower off until the engine has got to it's correct temp otherwise you are pulling heat away from the system? Does this not act like a stuck thermostat in that it would push coolant through the radiator cooling it when the engine needs to retain heat. Or is the difference nominal compared to sitting in a freezing car for 10 minutes.

/Mad
Click to expand...

I think the defender is an air blending system so the coolant is always circulating through the matrix whether you have it set to hot or cold, it just blends the hot and cold air. The air blowing through the matrix would cool the coolant passing through it but i don't think it slows the warming up process down by a big amount.
 
The heat from the fuel is used up in three ways, about equally ..

one third to power the car

one third wasted out the exhaust

one third wasted in the radiator / heater etc.

If you drive away gently, the amount of heat being taken by the heater WILL NOT prevent or slow down the engine from heating up. What it does is to delay the time the thermostat opens. In extremely cold conditions a powerful heater might be enough to keep an engine from overheating, and the thermostat might never open. If this happens, there is a real danger of the radiator 'blast freezing' because of the suction from the fan behind it.

Use enough anti-freeze to cover at least 10 Celsius degrees lower than the lowest ambient you might encounter.

CharlesY
 
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