vasimone · Mar 2, 2019

Heya,

My mechanic in Ghana as part of a few checks he has been doing made me notice that the clutch reservoir liquid is excessively dirty (similar to the one in the pic attached which is not mine). It all works well (no pedal issue, no leaking, etc..)

He advised me to get 'clutch master cylinder port top and down repair kit' since the seals are to be replaced -which I can imagine he meant the clutch master and slave cylinder overhaul kit (let me know if my assumption is incorrect).

Note that my Landy had many substituted bits and pieces by the previous owner so despite it having originally had a v8 (VIN SALLDHMV8TA975201) it now fits a Disco 200 TDI (12L77414A) - not sure if as part of the change the clutch master/slave cylinder were changed.

I bought one kit (bearmach part no BR 1988) which fits 'all Discovery models from 1975 on' but he told me it's not the correct one and that I should get something as in the picture attached (for defender).

He didn't want to dismantle it to check as he is sure the one I fit is for Defender - I attach here a picture of it whilst i was rebuilding the wing if any of you can confirm that's the case.

Now I am back in Europe and travelling back there on thursday so trying to figure out what to buy yet again.
Looking around I find that part no STC500090 is similar to the one my mechanic recommended (can find it only on LR direct - not on paddock, bearmach,...)

So my questions are the following:

how can I understand what is the right part number for my master/slave cylinder to avoid buying another one, going to GH to find out that it doesn't suit...
Assuming this (STC500090) is the right part number of the master cylinder - What would be the part number of the slave cylinder repair/overhaul kit ?

Thanks so much!!

Al2O3 · Mar 2, 2019

vasimone said:
Heya,

My mechanic in Ghana as part of a few checks he has been doing made me notice that the clutch reservoir liquid is excessively dirty (similar to the one in the pic attached which is not mine). It all works well (no pedal issue, no leaking, etc..)

View attachment 171369

He advised me to get 'clutch master cylinder port top and down repair kit' since the seals are to be replaced -which I can imagine he meant the clutch master and slave cylinder overhaul kit (let me know if my assumption is incorrect).

Note that my Landy had many substituted bits and pieces by the previous owner so despite it having originally had a v8 (VIN SALLDHMV8TA975201) it now fits a Disco 200 TDI (12L77414A) - not sure if as part of the change the clutch master/slave cylinder were changed.

I bought one kit (bearmach part no BR 1988) which fits 'all Discovery models from 1975 on' but he told me it's not the correct one and that I should get something as in the picture attached (for defender).

View attachment 171370

He didn't want to dismantle it to check as he is sure the one I fit is for Defender - I attach here a picture of it whilst i was rebuilding the wing if any of you can confirm that's the case.

View attachment 171379

Now I am back in Europe and travelling back there on thursday so trying to figure out what to buy yet again.
Looking around I find that part no STC500090 is similar to the one my mechanic recommended (can find it only on LR direct - not on paddock, bearmach,...)

So my questions are the following:

how can I understand what is the right part number for my master/slave cylinder to avoid buying another one, going to GH to find out that it doesn't suit...

Assuming this (STC500090) is the right part number of the master cylinder - What would be the part number of the slave cylinder repair/overhaul kit ?

Thanks so much!!

I'm not sure the master cylinders changed much, but others will know better. In which case it's probably one of these. LINKY

What gearbox do you have? You can tell by the position of the reverse gear location on the gear stick. If reverse is next to first gear you have an LT77 gearbox, if reverse is below the 5th gear position it's an R380 gearbox. Others on here know a lot more about this than me.

vasimone · Mar 2, 2019

Thanks @AI2O3 for the reply - i have the Discovery gearbox (gear stick behind the diff lock) and the reverse is next to the first gear? so It's a Lt77? That'd be handy to understand as I couldn't find any serial number on the gearbox - I found the trasmission one (28D2 89013E) and it's a model LT230.

Would it make sense to just change the seals or better to replace the whole master cylinder?

Al2O3 · Mar 2, 2019

vasimone said:
Thanks @AI2O3 for the reply - i have the Discovery gearbox (gear stick behind the diff lock) and the reverse is next to the first gear? so It's a Lt77? That'd be handy to understand as I couldn't find any serial number on the gearbox - I found the trasmission one (28D2 89013E) and it's a model LT230.

Would it make sense to just change the seals or better to replace the whole master cylinder?

Most people just change the whole cylinder.

payydg · Mar 2, 2019

As above its easy and relatively cheap to change the whole cylinder

vasimone · Mar 2, 2019

cool - then i can do that- how do i know which is the right one for my one?

Al2O3 · Mar 2, 2019

vasimone said:
cool - then i can do that- how do i know which is the right one for my one?

I can't be sure and it's especially tricky as your'sis a hybrid vehicle. I think the master cylinder should be as per the one I put a link to in my post #2 above.
The slave cylinder might be this one LINKY The links I've given are to G code products which are to OEM standards.
Here's a LINKY to a pattern product of the same part.
I should imagine @jamesmartin will be able to clarify what is right.

vasimone · Mar 3, 2019

So the master cylinder is the one of the original engine fitted (Defender V8) whereas the slave cylinder is of the current engine fitted (Disco 200 TDI) ? If that was the case there are 3 variants for the slave cylinder (TKC2786LG, FTC2498, FTC5072) - how would I know which one is a good fit?

Scooby22 · Mar 3, 2019

Looks the same as my Defender master cylinder, Not worth messing about with seal kits, I only paid £11 for a new one a few years ago and its been fine.

Disco1BFG · Mar 3, 2019

As above - I wouldn't faff about re-sealing cylinders - just fit new OEM ... and as @Al203 says above, @jamesmartin is the man to advise you which specific slave - I think the master will be unchanged from original - but I suspect JM will just know, given his experience

jamesmartin · Mar 3, 2019

as above master will be the original same one used on series to td5s, some brands wont except the outlet adapter, the box if disco lt77 wants that one

vasimone · Mar 3, 2019

Thanks a lot everyone! So, @jamesmartin, for the Master I'd go for 550732 & slave for TKC2786L correct ? how to ensure that the thread will be correct since I see here (link) that a common problem is that there are various types of threads available? shall I also get anything else whilst I am at it (e.g. Clutch slave push rod FRC3417)

vasimone · Mar 4, 2019

I found the master cylinder of TRW and the slave of AP - good reliable brands I'd assume.
Kindly confirm the part number are correct and if there is anything else I should change whilst I am at it

frog hopper · Mar 4, 2019

Just to stick my oar in, don't throw out the old master cylinder cap, keep as a spare or like me use as part of an easybleed kit for flushing/bleeding the clutch system. Often enough the caps supplied in the kits don't fit so handy to have something you can butcher to use instead.

vasimone · Mar 5, 2019

interesting - how would the 'easybleed kit' work?

Scooby22 · Mar 5, 2019

I find the easiest way to bleed the clutch system is to put a long bit of clear tubing on the slave bleed nipple and run it up into a container on the inner wing, crack open the bleed nipple (leave it open until complete) remove master cylinder cap and pump the pedal and push all the air out, you can do it single handedly as the tube fills with brake fluid and does not draw air back in, obviously you have to keep checking and keep master cylinder topped up with DOT 4 fluid. Once no more air bubbles are present nip up the nipple and remove pipe and top up master and refit cap.
It is so easy this way. Have a small container ready to catch the brake fluid left in the clear tubing, don't let it get on your paintwork.

frog hopper · Mar 5, 2019

vasimone said:
interesting - how would the 'easybleed kit' work?

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