nobber · Jul 3, 2018

Rougharse Racing said:
As has been said before, the spigot bush in your crank looks well 7ucked, this won't be doing you any favours.

No it wont, but neither is it the reason I stripped the gearbox back out, I took the gearbox out because the slave pushrod wasn't standing proud enough off the bell housing, bear in mind the car ran 40 miles a day for almost two weeks like this and the only fault was the high biting point.

Retroanaconda · Jul 4, 2018

Slave push rod sticking out 10mm sounds about right to me. First time I did mine I thought it looked like it wasn’t enough as well but it always seems to work okay.

nobber · Jul 8, 2018

What do you think guys? Ive just had a hell of a time mating this gearbox back up and dont want to button everything up only to take it all apart again, I just cant see the slave piston having enough travel in the barrel to push this all the way in. On tightening the clutch cover in the pressure did retract the fingers in a fair bit but I always thought this was normal.

Chadstone Pat · Jul 8, 2018

that looks about right to me

Retroanaconda · Jul 8, 2018

As above, that looks like mine did and it works fine.

tottot · Jul 8, 2018

Looks normal.

nobber · Jul 29, 2018

Thanks guys, got it all buttoned up but its still not right, internals all seem to work fine, biting point is a little low but not stupidly so. The problem is the 1-2 inches of free play at the pedal before it starts to push fluid, so it needs setting up, or the components in the box are worn, any suggestions? Can the box be rebuilt? I am going to bleed it again when I can get an extra foot to help out.

jamesmartin · Jul 29, 2018

nobber said:
Thanks guys, got it all buttoned up but its still not right, internals all seem to work fine, biting point is a little low but not stupidly so. The problem is the 1-2 inches of free play at the pedal before it starts to push fluid, so it needs setting up, or the components in the box are worn, any suggestions? Can the box be rebuilt? I am going to bleed it again when I can get an extra foot to help out.

adjust rod at the pedal box

nobber · Jul 29, 2018

I was thinking that too, its pretty much in the last quarter of the rod furthest away from the master, putting it closer to the master (somewhere in the middle of the rod) would take the biting point up higher but would it remove the freeplay? I need to get a second pair of hands to wiggle the pedal while I look to see whats causing the freeplay.

jamesmartin · Jul 29, 2018

move it to the end so theres just a few threads showing past the outer nut

nobber · Jul 29, 2018

Ive just been out and had a look, you are right , its set too much to the middle, I could have swore I put it at the end of the rod when I put the new master in.

jamesmartin · Jul 29, 2018

ive just done one and it needed to be very near the end to get a decent pedal

nobber · Jul 30, 2018

I will give that a go and adjust it, the freeplay still bugs me though, my pedal has the big long spring from a tab on the pedal to a securing tab on the bolt holding the pedal box in so its not a great set up.

jamesmartin · Jul 30, 2018

nobber said:
I will give that a go and adjust it, the freeplay still bugs me though, my pedal has the big long spring from a tab on the pedal to a securing tab on the bolt holding the pedal box in so its not a great set up.

adjustment seems more vital now poorer parts i presume

Flossie · Jul 30, 2018

Flossie said:
Check you only have a mill or two clearance at the MASTER pushrod first , if you haven't already.

nobber · Jul 30, 2018

How do you check Flossie?

nobber · Jul 30, 2018

jamesmartin said:
adjustment seems more vital now poorer parts i presume

My old pedal box is probably worn out James, its 33 years old.

jamesmartin · Jul 30, 2018

nobber said:
My old pedal box is probably worn out James, its 33 years old.

wish i was

Flossie · Jul 30, 2018

nobber said:
How do you check Flossie?

It's been a while but from memory you can get two fingers on the pushrod(or long nosed pliers) and 'feel' the free play. As long as the pushrod has slight play (only slight!- suspect you have too much and that is the problem) before pedal movement pushes the piston it'll be fine.
Fiddly job iirc and I seem to also remember that an assistant holding the pedal down improves access to the nuts. I think I cut down a spanner to help as well.
Your pedal box can only wear around the pedal pivot which would be obvious by sloppy play- I've never seen that happen.
Just had another thought...on mine there is a pedal stop adjustment, front of pedal box, mine was causing problems until I readjusted it , can't remember what issues (over 10yrs ago now).

nobber · Jul 31, 2018

The trunnion that the rod fixes to can have play, I think this is where mine has worn because the spigot will move before the rod as it takes up the slack causing freeplay at the top pf the pedal. The rod in the master is on a spring so it cant be that.

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Attachments

Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads