Yeah, I was trying to recall if it were 15 or 16 .. We also found the best is a long reach socket too ..
minimole23
Active Member
Change the bush in the end of the crank, drop the gearbox and trasfer box out the way to save a load of swearing and inaccessability, Fit HD clutch fork.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
fit a h/d release arm ftc2957hd
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
Did mine last week.
Changed spigot bush as suggested above, as well as clutch fork, bearing, slipper pads etc. Didn't bother with rear crank seal, wasn't leaking so best left alone!
I took the engine out as I hate laying under the car, plus I had other jobs to do (manifold gaskets, timing belt, chassis repairs, wing replacement).
Changed spigot bush as suggested above, as well as clutch fork, bearing, slipper pads etc. Didn't bother with rear crank seal, wasn't leaking so best left alone!
I took the engine out as I hate laying under the car, plus I had other jobs to do (manifold gaskets, timing belt, chassis repairs, wing replacement).
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
I haven't done the job myself. But I won't be far behind you.
Something I've read is, to buy a new clip for the slave cylinder push rod, and cable tie it to the clutch fork. That way it prevents the stupid push rod coming away from the fork if ever you have to change the slave cylinder. I've been there, done that. My god it was a ball ache!
Hope this helps
Something I've read is, to buy a new clip for the slave cylinder push rod, and cable tie it to the clutch fork. That way it prevents the stupid push rod coming away from the fork if ever you have to change the slave cylinder. I've been there, done that. My god it was a ball ache!
Hope this helps
It's not a difficult job by any means. Just time consuming. There's lots to be removed and re-fitted. I once swore that I would never remove the engine again for a clutch change but I always end up taking that route. Just take your time, label everything carefully and follow the instructions. it's pretty easy. A second pair of hands is essential when mating the engine up to the the gearbox. Otherwise, it can easily be tackled in a long day single handed
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90
Active Member
Do you guys wait until the clutch fails or starts to fail before replacing. Or replace before it catches you out?
Mine always failed Once it was a broken spring on the friction plate (i.e. I couldn't engage any gears when the vehicle was stationery), less than 2 years later it was warped springs on the pressure plate (I could only press the pedal down half way) and the clutch slipped horribly and third time happened about 4 years later when the fork broke (a heavy duty one).
Once it was a broken spring on the friction plate (i.e. I couldn't engage any gears when the vehicle was stationery), less than 2 years later it was warped springs on the pressure plate (I could only press the pedal down half way) and the clutch slipped horribly and third time happened about 4 years later when the fork broke (a heavy duty one).
timtheenchanteruk
Well-Known Member
Wait till it starts slipping, and change before complete failure if poss, theres no way to guess when or how long it would last.
anyhoo, 22mm copper pipe also works well for an alignment tool. ive done mine twice box out, only because it ended up a relativly short period between changes, and I knew everything would come out that way as id coppersliped everything last time out.
future i'd engine out.
id also change out the slave cylinder whislt its accessible.
Tools out to tools away took me 14 hrs first time, 10 the second. thats on the roadside, no special equipment like a hoist.
