B

Bellie

Member
My Freelander 1 has been out with a large trailer. When trying to reverse into a tight area up a small rise, the clutch eventually started smoking, and it wasn't due to me slipping the clutch.

I'm just wondering whether this would be down to a worn clutch just not being able to handle a heavy force or the Freelander not being up to much when towing a big trailer - and so if I intend to keep towing I'd be better starting afresh with a new clutch. the landy has done 129,000 miles. I've not done many in it myself so no idea on what sort of life the clutch has had.

Only signs now are of a very slight judder when setting off. I may have trashed it?
 
The reverse ratio is too high to reverse heavy loads up slopes, go easy on the clutch for the next few days and it may well be good for another 50,000 miles
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
what was on the trailer?
Click to expand...
Oh nowt heavy just a couple of bulky hen huts, so it wasn't taking any weight other than the trailer really, and the run was just down the M6 from junction to junction. It just struggled in reverse. Nice stink in the car for the rest of the day. After that it coughed and spluttered - as you would after straining yourself! But seems to run as good as normal... and in fact the oil lamp has hardly come on since (the usual Freelander oil sensor thing - only flickers at low revs at standstill).
 
Bellie said:
Oh nowt heavy just a couple of bulky hen huts, so it wasn't taking any weight other than the trailer really, and the run was just down the M6 from junction to junction. It just struggled in reverse. Nice stink in the car for the rest of the day. After that it coughed and spluttered - as you would after straining yourself! But seems to run as good as normal... and in fact the oil lamp has hardly come on since (the usual Freelander oil sensor thing - only flickers at low revs at standstill).
Click to expand...
The first time I tried to reverse something stonkingly heavy up my drive - the clutch started burning/stinking like crazy. I took a bit more interest in how to maneuver heavy things after that and have successfully got loads of heavy stuff up the drive without any fuss - up to 3,000kg. The point being, that the first time I gave the clutch a huge amount of abuse - and I totally expected it to be goosed - but it is still as strong as an ox all these years later.

Yours sounds different. Mine was all due to excessive slipping of the clutch, you say your's isn't. If that's the case, your clutch couldn't handle shifting little more than a transporter (eg 1,000kg) - then I'd wouldn't trust the clutch. At east not to tow with. You should check it wasn't some other reason though. 1 day after a long drive and desperate for a pee, I had all sorts of trouble getting the boat up the drive. I really gave it some stick but for some reason it wouldn't go up the drive - I was very confused, until I realised the outboard was getting caught on the curb! Trashed the mounting bracket for it!

Mine's an L Series, not TD4.
 
GrumpyGel said:
The first time I tried to reverse something stonkingly heavy up my drive - the clutch started burning/stinking like crazy. I took a bit more interest in how to maneuver heavy things after that and have successfully got loads of heavy stuff up the drive without any fuss - up to 3,000kg. The point being, that the first time I gave the clutch a huge amount of abuse - and I totally expected it to be goosed - but it is still as strong as an ox all these years later.

Yours sounds different. Mine was all due to excessive slipping of the clutch, you say your's isn't. If that's the case, your clutch couldn't handle shifting little more than a transporter (eg 1,000kg) - then I'd wouldn't trust the clutch. At east not to tow with. You should check it wasn't some other reason though. 1 day after a long drive and desperate for a pee, I had all sorts of trouble getting the boat up the drive. I really gave it some stick but for some reason it wouldn't go up the drive - I was very confused, until I realised the outboard was getting caught on the curb! Trashed the mounting bracket for it!

Mine's an L Series, not TD4.
Click to expand...
Yes it was a tight spot to get into so maybe just a bit of abuse. Glad to know the clutch might not have fared badly as a result. It will get a good look on the service, so hopefully will be good for the occasional bit of towing.. but nothing too strenuous.

Next stop is a full valet. Some tlc for winter.
 
Bellie said:
Oh nowt heavy just a couple of bulky hen huts, so it wasn't taking any weight other than the trailer really, and the run was just down the M6 from junction to junction. It just struggled in reverse. Nice stink in the car for the rest of the day. After that it coughed and spluttered - as you would after straining yourself! But seems to run as good as normal... and in fact the oil lamp has hardly come on since (the usual Freelander oil sensor thing - only flickers at low revs at standstill).
Click to expand...

The oil pressure light shouldn't be on. There's either low oil pressure, or the sensor is faulty.
At those miles, using 5W40 oil is a wise move ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
The oil pressure light shouldn't be on. There's either low oil pressure, or the sensor is faulty.
Click to expand...
Good point. I did wonder what the "usual Freelander oil sensor thing" meant! Surely once started, the oil light should NEVER come on until the engine is stopped again. Are any of the Freelander engines susceptible to faulty oil pressure sensors? Not heard on any reports on the forum.
 
Ive re
GrumpyGel said:
Good point. I did wonder what the "usual Freelander oil sensor thing" meant! Surely once started, the oil light should NEVER come on until the engine is stopped again. Are any of the Freelander engines susceptible to faulty oil pressure sensors? Not heard on any reports on the forum.
Click to expand...
I've read on here and elsewhere about oil light flickering on when the engine is warmed up and and stood on tick over out of gear with clutch down. This is what mine does. if you just lightly increase the revs it goes out. Not sure of a fix to it, other than try a new sensor, but it stopped after a new filter and oil change for a while. Now just creaping on again.
 
I've just searched the Freelander forum for "flicker". I checked all the ones on the first 4 or 5 pages of results that related to the oil light flickering. I came across this one, which I presume is what you are referring to...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/intermittent-idle-when-hot.219183/

This was a petrol that was dipping to 300 revs at idle - obviously far to low. All the others had seriously ill engines! There were no posts I think for diesel engines.

I would be concerned. Don't know what others think.
 
Bellie said:
Ive re

I've read on here and elsewhere about oil light flickering on when the engine is warmed up and and stood on tick over out of gear with clutch down. This is what mine does. if you just lightly increase the revs it goes out. Not sure of a fix to it, other than try a new sensor, but it stopped after a new filter and oil change for a while. Now just creaping on again.
Click to expand...

It's suffering low oil pressure. The only causes are faulty oil pump or worn bearings. A flickering oil light definitely isn't normal for the TD4. To be honest, I'd be concerned if my oil light flickered at idle.
Makes me wonder how many oil changes have been skipped. Definitely switch to 5W40 oil and see if it stops it flashing.
 
You are probably right with the worn bearings. I'll give the new oil a go. It went away with new oil. The thread I looked at on another forum, had the fault down to faulty wiring in the end, but mines a bit noisy when first accelerating so bearings is looking likely. Runs like a dream otherwise.
 
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