with care you get it out from under the LR.
Take the flywheel off, then remove the flywheel housing. CLEAN it all properly - and the back of the block. Then, push out the old seal. DONT fit the new one yet.
Run a good bead of instant gasket to the back of the flywheel housing, and seal and refit it to the block.
Then, using the holder the seal comes on as a guide, fit the new seal. It is a good idea to stick it in with some good oil proof sticky stuff - i borrowed some wurth stuff from a local garage for mine.
Then, refit the flywheel!
Make sure you put the seal ALL the way into the housing though, i didn' and had to take it out and do it all again.
Take the flywheel off, then remove the flywheel housing. CLEAN it all properly - and the back of the block. Then, push out the old seal. DONT fit the new one yet.
Run a good bead of instant gasket to the back of the flywheel housing, and seal and refit it to the block.
Then, using the holder the seal comes on as a guide, fit the new seal. It is a good idea to stick it in with some good oil proof sticky stuff - i borrowed some wurth stuff from a local garage for mine.
Then, refit the flywheel!
Make sure you put the seal ALL the way into the housing though, i didn' and had to take it out and do it all again.
good plan!
Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
unless you want it on yer drive.............
TO lock the flywheel take two clutch cover bolts (or even better - some different longer bolts of the same thread)
Run then into two opposing clutch cover holes, and run a stud into the flywheel housing on the engine if there aint one convenient.
Get a mate to hole a cold chisel or similar LONG bar between the two - sorted!
You WILL need a 2-3 foot breaker bar to shift them also. I tried with a length of scaff bar on my T-bar half in ch drive, and i now have a banana shaped t bar. Bought a breaker bar, sorted. I think they are 3/4 inch socket also.
It is best to re-loctite them when you put them in, and make sure that they are REALLY ferkin tite also.
Oh yeah, once youve got all the bolts out, use the two clutch cover bolts to hold the flywheel and pull it out, but be careful cos its FOOKIN heavy - i dropped mine on my finger once, and the ringgear took the skin off.
If its stuck in place, use the end of a hammer handle and tap it all around the edge - this should displace it enough to free it.
Run then into two opposing clutch cover holes, and run a stud into the flywheel housing on the engine if there aint one convenient.
Get a mate to hole a cold chisel or similar LONG bar between the two - sorted!
You WILL need a 2-3 foot breaker bar to shift them also. I tried with a length of scaff bar on my T-bar half in ch drive, and i now have a banana shaped t bar. Bought a breaker bar, sorted. I think they are 3/4 inch socket also.
It is best to re-loctite them when you put them in, and make sure that they are REALLY ferkin tite also.
Oh yeah, once youve got all the bolts out, use the two clutch cover bolts to hold the flywheel and pull it out, but be careful cos its FOOKIN heavy - i dropped mine on my finger once, and the ringgear took the skin off.
If its stuck in place, use the end of a hammer handle and tap it all around the edge - this should displace it enough to free it.
You got kids? If you have, then you have a landy gearbox shifting tool. A skateboard. If you have two, then even better, 'cos one ain't strong enough for the whole pair of boxes, so do one end at a time.
How do I know? Because I was standing around waiting for a neighbour, passer by, postman, or anyone to give me a hand to get mine under the car, but nobody appeared. Went into the garage and had a look around, and lo....
woods767
Well-Known Member
As if it wasnt fun enough already.
Tryed the clutch bolts and wedging a bit of angle iron in, bolts arnt long enough to clear the housing so that was a fail. Ive probaly got some bolts for it in the garage, and as the engins in the landy still, i'll wedge the angle iron against the bulk head.
