Hi everyone.

Daft question...can I adjust me clutch pedal travel or is this an indication of wear. It has a very low bite point and I hardly release it from the floor before she wants to go.

No usual whirring sounds during acceleration indicating wear and no difficult gear selctions forward or reverse.

there's no adjustment available, it may need bleeding though.

a common fault but easy repair is failure of the slave cylinder mounting bracket.

LAND ROVER FREELANDER CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER BRACKET on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 03-Dec-08 17:17:42 GMT)

No adjustment on mine. Check slave cylinder mounting bracket ( you need to remove the battery to see clearly). This can bend and fracture. Is the clutch stiff to operate? If so, then the cause maybe the rod going into the clutch housing starting to seize up causing the bracket to bend. A spray of penetrating oil frees it off. Clutch master and slave cylinder come as a sealed assembly on some models and there is no bleed. Simple to do if you catch everything before it all goes pop....

gavmoulds said:

Hi everyone.

Daft question...can I adjust me clutch pedal travel or is this an indication of wear. It has a very low bite point and I hardly release it from the floor before she wants to go.

No usual whirring sounds during acceleration indicating wear and no difficult gear selctions forward or reverse.

Click to expand...

Sounds like it needs bleeding to me.

If the pedal was working normaly, a clutch that bites near the bottom of the travel has lots of wear left and a clutch that bites at the top of the travel is nearing replacement.

Thanks everyone...it all seems to make sense to me.

Hhmmmm! I fitted a new bracket master and slave , but Pedal really low ,same as
Sprayed the arm over 2 days , no great joy
Have sprayed again and left pedal depressed , as someone suggested
Has 69000 miles
Any other option over removal of gearbox ?
Ta Trevor

There's a current thread running on this sort of thing, you should have a look on there.....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/hard-to-get-into-gear.305568/

trevor unsworth said:

Hhmmmm! I fitted a new bracket master and slave , but Pedal really low ,same as
Sprayed the arm over 2 days , no great joy
Have sprayed again and left pedal depressed , as someone suggested
Has 69000 miles
Any other option over removal of gearbox ?
Ta Trevor

Click to expand...

If you bought cheap off ebay then that might be your problem, did you leave the plastic cap thing on the slave? If not put it back on.
Here is how I adjusted the height of mine (half way down the page) but it the master/slave was old.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/k-series-clutch-replacement.296104/page-3

The two main problems the clutch operation are these.
First off, the release lever bushes seize to the lever spindle. The secondary effect of this is slave cylinder failure, normally because the bracket holding it cracks and distorts.
So the very first job is to free the lever off. It should be free to move about an inch with gentle hand pressure. So try to wiggle it from side to side. No movement here means an overloaded hydraulic system.
The other problem is air in the hydraulics. The 1.8 Freelander hydraulic system is sealed, so can't be bleed in the normal way. The best way I've found is to hang the master cylinder up, allowing the slave to hang below it. The plastic retaining strap should still be fitted. Then push the slave piston fully into the bore of the cylinder. The retaining strap will bend to allow this. Allow the piston to come out of the cylinder again, against the retaining strap. Repeat this operation a few times, to ensure all trapped air works it's way to the top.
Make sure that the slave bracket is solid and free from cracking. Anything suspect needs welding or a replacement bracket. I'd avoid cheap brackets off of Ebay as they are often poor quality.
Get a genuine LR part. They aren't that expensive and last much longer.
Once the clutch is working correctly, make sure that the release lever spindle bush is lubricated at every oil change, using a few drops of engine oil