When the car is coasting it won't make the noise only when u put ur foot down, or when it's really underload say going up a steep incline will it make the noise, it definitely sounds like it's from the front and more so the drive train cheers
 
When the car is coasting it won't make the noise only when u put ur foot down, or when it's really underload say going up a steep incline will it make the noise, it definitely sounds like it's from the front and more so the drive train cheers


Shot diff is more like grinding noise, never heard one clunking, could you record and utube it?
 
I would go for a failing diff. Mine did a similar clunk, skip when you hit the accelerator from coasting, ok on gentle acceleration......which soon turned into a constant grinding noise from the rear diff.

PS. both my props have UJ's both ends.
 
I would go for a failing diff. Mine did a similar clunk, skip when you hit the accelerator from coasting, ok on gentle acceleration......which soon turned into a constant grinding noise from the rear diff.

PS. both my props have UJ's both ends.

Is yours a manual? Diesel manual rear props should have U/J both ends. Auto rubber at front U/J at rear.
 
Nope, it's an auto :confused:

And it's not a diesel. That may well be the reason it has a U/J at both ends of the rear prop. Considering the rubber joint is only fitted to diesel autos that maybe a good explanation don't you think.. ;)
 
Hi everyone yes there is vibration coming from the gearbox tunnel when u put it foot down, if u rev it at a standstill there is no noise at all, what parts are serviceable on the front prop as I just changed the uj's I never checked anything else ?
 
Hi everyone yes there is vibration coming from the gearbox tunnel when u put it foot down, if u rev it at a standstill there is no noise at all, what parts are serviceable on the front prop as I just changed the uj's I never checked anything else ?

You did tighten it up i suppose.
 
Yes get under there again check all bolts did you use a propshaft tool of fiddle about with two spanners the tool makes like easier and more reliable ie less tired arms.

While your under there and you have the car jacked up so that you can turn the prop shaft with a wheel so its not binding ie free movement check both ends again and don't forget the front prop has a sliding joint check that too for play it too has a grease nipple the front section with the uj attached the short section should face engine .

Gl
 
Yes get under there again check all bolts did you use a propshaft tool of fiddle about with two spanners the tool makes like easier and more reliable ie less tired arms.

While your under there and you have the car jacked up so that you can turn the prop shaft with a wheel so its not binding ie free movement check both ends again and don't forget the front prop has a sliding joint check that too for play it too has a grease nipple the front section with the uj attached the short section should face engine .

Gl

Cheers mate will take it off again and double check, I used spanners to tighten the bolts (all new bolts too) if it has play is it a case of a new prop shaft ?
 
Cheers mate will take it off again and double check, I used spanners to tighten the bolts (all new bolts too) if it has play is it a case of a new prop shaft ?

It should slide smoothly and if it can wobble its worn but it be could be stiff also due to rust,dried grease or even no grease ect

So just recheck it over again best to be sure
If bad then yes as both parts would be worn the front part has splines that locate into the rear section .
 

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