Flagshiplandy

Flagshiplandy

Active Member
Hi all!

So the 90 has developed another noise this time when steering towards full lock. It sounds to me like a clicking sound and after some initial research I believe the CVs are the culprit.

Oddly, when taking out the Landy this morning the noise wasn't there so what is the best course of action, replace or grease up?

For greasing it up is it 'one-shot' grease that is needed?

For the replacement I have a few questions:
- Would it be worth doing both CVs or just the one I think is making the noise?
- Are any special tools needed, i.e. I think someone mentioned a hub nut socket?
- Does this kit have all the needed components for replacement? https://www.paddockspares.com/cvkit7-cv-joint-kit-defender-non-abs-with-23-internal-splines.html
-How can I know whether the cv will be a 10 or 23 spline (it is a 1999 td5 90)?
-What else would be wise to change whilst doing the job? Wheel bearing/ swivel seals?

It does appear the grease has leaked out looking at the swivels, both look to have leaked the same (see pic)


Thankyou for your help, I appreciate I have asked a lot of questions!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4348.JPG
    IMG_4348.JPG
    249.5 KB · Views: 237
If you take the plug outr and stick your finger in the hole, can you feel the oil/grease level on the end of your finger?
Don't worry, you will get oil/grease around it as you are 'dipping'. It's the end that counts.
If you don't then fill up with half a pack of OneShot in each, and let it settle, then dip them again, adding OneShot as required.
The external residue could be a build up over a long time, so I would clean it off, along with all the soil and other abrasives, and keep an eye on it over the next 12 months or so.
Why does everyone seem too think that everything has to be stripped down to carry out routine maintenance?
Or is it me just being a bone idle burgher?
 
Clicking at full lock is often the sign of a failing or dry CV, however on a landy it can also be UJ on the way out.
There is no doubt the swivel seals need renewal.
I would strip the suspect housing and check the CV [ moving it about in your hand will detect any rough action ] and you can check the spline count.
Check axle breather is clear.
Hub nut box spanner is a handy to have item.
Wheel bearings can be checked by spinning the wheel, runs smooth then it is fine.
Renew the hub oil seal and as you are doing this the rear hub bearing can be cleaned an put back with fresh grease.
The search function on this site is rubbish but plenty of info on line and the youtube.
Well worth learning to do this stuff yourself, will save a mint over a lifetime.
 
Oldseadog said:
If you take the plug outr and stick your finger in the hole, can you feel the oil/grease level on the end of your finger?
Don't worry, you will get oil/grease around it as you are 'dipping'. It's the end that counts.
If you don't then fill up with half a pack of OneShot in each, and let it settle, then dip them again, adding OneShot as required.
Click to expand...

I'll do this first, thanks Oldseadog!

Oldseadog said:
Why does everyone seem too think that everything has to be stripped down to carry out routine maintenance?
Click to expand...

I just like to know that the problem is sorted especially as I'm going on a long trip soon. Plus it gives me the chance to learn more about fixing a landy which hopefully will prove useful at some point ;)


tottot said:
Clicking at full lock is often the sign of a failing or dry CV, however on a landy it can also be UJ on the way out.
There is no doubt the swivel seals need renewal.
I would strip the suspect housing and check the CV [ moving it about in your hand will detect any rough action ] and you can check the spline count.
Check axle breather is clear.
Hub nut box spanner is a handy to have item.
Wheel bearings can be checked by spinning the wheel, runs smooth then it is fine.
Renew the hub oil seal and as you are doing this the rear hub bearing can be cleaned an put back with fresh grease.
The search function on this site is rubbish but plenty of info on line and the youtube.
Well worth learning to do this stuff yourself, will save a mint over a lifetime.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this! Very useful, I will be doing it all myself :). I've found a good video on youtube showing how to replace swivels giving some good info. With regards to the swivel seals am I right in saying that the main cause for the leaks is pitting on the swivel ball? I can see some pitting so depending on the severeness of it, would it be wise to replace it with a teflon one as I am doing the job?

Another (newbie) question for when replacing the cv joint. When I take out the half shaft will there be a potential loss of oil from the diff/axle and therefore before I finish the job will I need to replace/top up the diff oil?

Thanks again, this site is invaluable :D
 
Oldseadog said:
If you take the plug outr and stick your finger in the hole, can you feel the oil/grease level on the end of your finger?
Don't worry, you will get oil/grease around it as you are 'dipping'. It's the end that counts.
If you don't then fill up with half a pack of OneShot in each, and let it settle, then dip them again, adding OneShot as required.
The external residue could be a build up over a long time, so I would clean it off, along with all the soil and other abrasives, and keep an eye on it over the next 12 months or so.
Why does everyone seem too think that everything has to be stripped down to carry out routine maintenance?
Or is it me just being a bone idle burgher?
Click to expand...

On second thoughts, going by the picture in my first post have the swivels been filled by oil rather than grease? o_O(im not with the car now so can't check)
 
Could be either oil or grease, who knows what PO has put in. What year is your truck ? Some fill with grease thinking it will stay put better than oil but if the seals are poor grease still escapes, more so when the axle warms up in use and the grease thins.
If balls are badly pitted then replace. Depends on how much you want to spend but yours [ what I see ] is not to bad and the lower half where the oil sits at stand still looks still good.
Jack up the side you are working on and diff oil will not escape.
 
tottot said:
Could be either oil or grease, who knows what PO has put in. What year is your truck ? Some fill with grease thinking it will stay put better than oil but if the seals are poor grease still escapes, more so when the axle warms up in use and the grease thins.
If balls are badly pitted then replace. Depends on how much you want to spend but yours [ what I see ] is not to bad and the lower half where the oil sits at stand still looks still good.
Jack up the side you are working on and diff oil will not escape.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Its a 1999.
I'll take a closer look at the swivels on full lock to see if there is anymore pitting. If not I'll just replace seals then replace swivels at a later date.
Someone on another forum said they smoothed over the pitting marks using metal epoxy o_O
Main thing is to check the state of the CV's. Do you have any opinions on britpart CVs as replacements?
 
Last edited:
Update:

@tottot

Noise has completely gone but surely it can't have fixed itself! :confused:

I checked the condition of the balls and there is a bit more pitting on the drivers side but passenger looks okay (please see pictures) does this all need replacing?

Next I checked the grease level in the drivers side and it was absolutely fine.

D'you reckon I should just replace the seals anyway and have a closer look inside?

Is there any chance it could have been something else broken? I think someone said UJs but I'm not sure how to check it.

Thanks for your help.
 
Landy's fix themselves all the time.;) Seals do need replacement and you may as well do the hub seals as well. Hard to tell with all the gunge but recon I would give filling balls a go. Easy enough to pull the Cv's and check them in hand for smooth movement
With a wheel jacked up give it a spin and listen with it in turned and in straight ahead positions.
Look listen to the UJ's as the wheel spins, grab the shaft and push, pull, twist the prop shaft looking for loose joints/journals and play in the centre splines. A clicking UJ is often one that is about to seize.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

NiallRussell
need help, can you diagnose this...
Replies
4
Views
256
NiallRussell
NiallRussell
G
300tdi ticking
Replies
5
Views
333
Forrest Gump
F
dag019
LT77 clicking loudly in 5th gear
Replies
7
Views
901
Skolmate
Skolmate
B
Rear rattle/ clunking
Replies
4
Views
291
Anaconda
A
W
I'm new here, could I get some advice with a vibration problem
Replies
17
Views
466
Wendy L
W