bigdenbailey

Active Member
Hi people,
Just wanted to share my recnt hippo exploits.

My hippo had been smoking quite heavily (black smoke not fags!) and was unstable at idle so I decided to tackle the EGR Valve. After weighing up my options, remove or clean it, I decided to keep it and clean it.

I removed heat exchangerfrom the valve then tried to remove the valve itself but someone had already rounded off the allen key bolts leaving me no option to leave the valve in situ.
Armed with lots of carb leaner I doused the internals of the valve and flushed out the mucked up heat exchanger and pipe to inlet manifold.
I was concerned about the valve seating properly, so I used the actuator pipe and applied suction to lift the valve seat up and got lots of lovely carb cleaner in to make it spotless.

After re-assembling the results were instantly noticeable- more torque at low down revs and after the first mile much less smoke and overall a smoother happier engine.

Its cost me £3 for the carb cleaner, 30 mins of time and with keeping the valve I get faster warmup and the economy benefits.

Happy Hippo Times again!
 
142k, still going strong will be going for a long time too I think.
I had already cleaned out my inlet manifold from when I replaced a piston back in early feb, think this would be a good idea too for all you L-Series owners out there.

Im slowly restoring and tinkering with my hippo, fitted new rear tailgate regulator this week, on average have been doing about 1k miles a month since I've had it.

Tempted to go down the rover ron synergy VP route, but unsure how much my mpg will be dented, fuel prices getting bloody ridiculous!
:D
 
Hi people,
Just wanted to share my recnt hippo exploits.

My hippo had been smoking quite heavily (black smoke not fags!) and was unstable at idle so I decided to tackle the EGR Valve. After weighing up my options, remove or clean it, I decided to keep it and clean it.

I removed heat exchangerfrom the valve then tried to remove the valve itself but someone had already rounded off the allen key bolts leaving me no option to leave the valve in situ.
Armed with lots of carb leaner I doused the internals of the valve and flushed out the mucked up heat exchanger and pipe to inlet manifold.
I was concerned about the valve seating properly, so I used the actuator pipe and applied suction to lift the valve seat up and got lots of lovely carb cleaner in to make it spotless.

After re-assembling the results were instantly noticeable- more torque at low down revs and after the first mile much less smoke and overall a smoother happier engine.

Its cost me £3 for the carb cleaner, 30 mins of time and with keeping the valve I get faster warmup and the economy benefits.

Happy Hippo Times again!
I know a cheaper way......:D :D :D
 

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Typical tractor twonk!!

Thinks he can get a gallon of petrol for less than 3 quid.

You'll have to compensate for them, they can't count past two!!
 
LOL less than 3 quid of petrol? these days it would of evaporated before he had chance to light it!!!

In fact, if you have no carb cleaner the petrol would be better used cleaning the valve!

Cheers Tratter Boys!:D
 
It will be cheaper in the long run to...................BURN IT
 

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I had to look closer, thought it could of been a 10 year old, 'already had the rear cross member/inner wings replaced' tratter......

Like magic, disappearing (well oxidizing) before your very eyes........
 
Would using a fuel additive like that Redex stuff have a similar effect upon keeping the channels gunk free...used at regular intervals over time?
 
The problem there is the fuel gets introduced directly into the cylinders, not the inlet manifold, so the redex wouldnt have any effect.
 
Tis true, a good clean out of the induction system and a good service of the oil seperator is what is required.
 

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