Hello,
I have a RR classic - 93 V8 auto. I think i have a siezed viscous coupling in the transfer box- i have the problem with the inside wheel chirping on a tight slow turn.....I'm going to do the 'jack up a front wheel' test on the weekend to confirm.
Do i bite the bullet and order a new coupling @ approx £300, a reconditioned transfer box or is there anything else i can try first?

Thanks,
Dave.
 
i have two spare viscous boxes i will sell. one is a g plate and one is a k plate. the k plate works fine, havnt tested the g but everything else was ok.
you'll have to remove it yourself as i havnt got the time at the moment but i'm only in Coleford!
 
Hello,
I have a RR classic - 93 V8 auto. I think i have a siezed viscous coupling in the transfer box- i have the problem with the inside wheel chirping on a tight slow turn.....I'm going to do the 'jack up a front wheel' test on the weekend to confirm.
Do i bite the bullet and order a new coupling @ approx £300, a reconditioned transfer box or is there anything else i can try first?

Last time I had this problem, recon VCU from Ashcroft - job done. Don't waste your money on a secondhand unit unless you know for a fact that it's been tested out as OK. Once the VCU has been removed from the car there's no way of checking it. I speak from experience :mad:
 
How bad is the "Chirp"?
There will be some scrubbing of the tyre when turning - mine does it.
The viscous coupling does give a fair bit of drag.
Does the car grind to a sudden halt when you turn?
If so - theh a new coupling is needed...
 
Thanks for the replies. Captainbeaky, it doesn't grind to a halt but it really isn't happy turning full lock :(. Is there a procedure anywhere for replacing the VC without removing the transfer box? Is it as simple as dropping the propshaft out and taking the front off the box?
Thanks
 
Right, I've ordered a new VC...thanks for the offers of transfer boxes but with my limited knowledge or RR's it might have been a bit too complicated. Sre there any special tools needed to change the VC apart from standard sockets/spanners etc?
Thanks
 
Right, I've ordered a new VC...thanks for the offers of transfer boxes but with my limited knowledge or RR's it might have been a bit too complicated. Sre there any special tools needed to change the VC apart from standard sockets/spanners etc?
Thanks


**** of piddle really, no special tools. i am trying to find a posting from the other day for same thing, and no you dont drop transfer box off, can be done in 40 minutes start to finish.
 
thread you want is.............. 1990 Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8 diff lock
i gave explanation on there.
any problem private message me and i will give you my mobile number
 
Thanks for the help. Hopefully it'll be delivered before the weekend. One last question, what do you mean by "refit with high temp sealant"? What kind of sealant is suitable?
Thanks
 
I'm trying to repalce the VC today. I'm stuck trying to remove the propshaft from the flange. Do you need to be on a ramp so you can rotate the wheels to be able to get to the top 2 bolts? I'm using drive on ramps so i cant move the car or turn the wheels.......please help!!
 
Thanks for the reply. The problem is i cant get to the 2 top bolts on the joint between the transfer box and the prop shaft. The shaft needs to be rotated but i can't find a way to do that....if i raise 1 front and 1 rear wheen off the ground, would that enable me to rotate the shaft??
 
So i've got the VC out and back in.....next question is how to tighten the flange nut without a special tool to hold the flange. If i try it with the case back in the car, it just turns. I cant tighten it out of the car because i can't secure the casing or hold the flange. Hope thats clear?!
 

Similar threads