Tomorrow ill tackle the suspension if it's not ****ing down with rain. I also need to fix the front number plate to the car.
 
Datatek said:
Change the autobox oil and filter if it hasn't been done.
Click to expand...

I topped it up. It didn't look too bad on the dipstick. Is it an easy job? I'm sure I read somewhere about removing the exhaust and chassis crossmember and needing specialist tools?
 
lucifus said:
I topped it up. It didn't look too bad on the dipstick. Is it an easy job? I'm sure I read somewhere about removing the exhaust and chassis crossmember and needing specialist tools?
Click to expand...
Don't know on the Classic and the box is a little different to the P38, maybe PM James Martin to check if to do it or not. Some say yes and some say leave it alone. I'm in favour of changes every 24K miles.
It's dead easy on the P38.
 
Looks good. I would have a peak at the box filter as it's often neglected dos some see it as a bit of a pain.
 
yes..i can trace your number plate..so can others..just one phone call away..

just plain stupid not to cover ones arse in my oppion.
 
Photos photoshopped and post updated to remove reg. Just got to wait for ISP caches to clear now.
 
nice motor
i got 1987 range rover 3.5 v8 few weeks back with lots of history but i know challenges lie ahead but love that v8 burble on side exit exhaust
 
lucifus said:
Lol. Yes that's correct. It takes me about 15 mins per side to remove my 110 suspension now. That's because the bolts are new and copper greased etc. the bolts on this range rover could be 22 years old. They won't come off easily. There's 1 nut at the top of the shock that holds it to the mount and one at the bottom. I've ordered 2 new top shock mounts also as Sod's law tells me that these will probably be too corroded to get the bolt off.
Click to expand...

Sure my Classic's had large split pins and washers holding the top of the shocky to its mounting pin :)
 
Defiantly nuts on mine. I've been spraying them with wd40 all week in the hope that they may undo without my angle grinder
 
early ones split pins..later nuts...

av you got air gun...that will shift it..or heat??..but odds on it will come undone ok anyway..

glad you photoshoping...would be such a shame to lose him...read stolen landies to see how many go missin..granted defenders usually...but you never know who watching forum...better safe than sorry...buy an immobiliser too please..you know it makes sense..
 
The wd40 worked a treat. The bolts came off but I couldn't get the springs changed. I just couldnt get the articulation on the rear axle to get the stock one out and the new one in. I thought disconnecting the shocker then lowering the axles one side with the chassis supported would do it (worked on my 110) but it just didnt drop. I'm guessing it's either the anti-roll bar or self levelling unit stopping this. Rather annoyed. Anyone got any suggestions? Ive got spring compressors but it just doesn't feel safe enough compressing such a big spring like that.
 
At least I managed to change my headlight bulbs to the Night Breakers unlimited today. Also filled back up with fuel. Ive done approx 110 miles in the last week or so driving around town and its averaged just over 13mpg. Wow - Ill have to drive it nicer and hope it get's a little better on a longer run. I'll have to start using the 110 more often as that get's more like 33mpg!
 
Fitted the police spec rear springs and new shockers at the rear today. Used my new compressor and air tools :)

Felt so much safer doing it with a decent 3 tonne trolley jack and decent axle stands. Photos on my thread I posted asking for help Suspension Thread

I'm really pleased with the stance and the way it handles. I cant say I've noticed it being harder/harsher than before. The old shockers were pretty bad to be honest so new ones with the springs should have made it better.

Here's how it stands now -

C2AEC6EB-188F-4605-8744-AF67D8B517D1_zpsbpue9v4x.jpg

C56B31E1-8F31-419B-9100-41673B613A2C_zpsdbuvkcos.jpg


Roll on some decent warm weather so I can jetwash and under seal this beast.
 
So after seeing a brand new Range Rover colored mat NATO green I decided that's the colour that I'm gong to do this one. I'm going to use a product called plastidip which is an alternative to vinyl wrap (semi permanent). Ultimately in the long run I want to spray this thing in the original metalic green but I figure I may run it in NATO green for a while then peel it off when I'm ready to paint the thing properly. I practiced with my spray gun today (first time that I've ever used one) on an old defender door with some promising results. Now I'm just going to wait for a nice weekend when there's no wind as I'll be doing it on my drive. That is unless I can find someone that will let me use their workshop/barn/garage big enough for a RRC.
 
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