+1
Prevention is better than cure !!!
No way would I go 20K between oil changes even with all singin & dancin oils.
:eek:

There's a lot of paranoia about oils regarding who's is best. As long as the oil meets /exceeds the spec. in the handbook then in my book it's ok to use. Funny they dom't mention Castrol in the Handbook !!
Some manufacturers recommend Texaco and others Shell, Mobil etc. but all give the spec of the oil which is the important bit.

When I fitted a brand new engine to my 3.9 V8 Classic some years ago I used 15-40 mineral oil as that was the correct oil for the engine. I was told by both LR and many others that under no circumstances use a synthetic oil in the V8 engines, new or otherwise of that design. If the V8 was high mileage 20-50 mineral could be used.
 
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How cheap do you mean ?

5L Wilco 15w-40 mineral oil £13 & 4.5l 20-50 multi grade mineral for £9 :confused:

Wilko Petrol 15w 40 Motor Oil 5ltr at wilko.com engine oil

But after all that expense of re-building your engine why run old type mineral oil when a more modern castrol GTX for £12 would be much better for your engine ?

I need mineral oil for my Lister-D type stationary engine. Synthetic is a no no as it contains additives that will damage the primitive bearings used. It must use a non detergent, simple sae 30 / 40 mono grade but a simple multi grade will work.
A mineral oil won't damage an engine but it must be changed more often. I use a semi in my V6 Freelander.
 
I struggle to believe that you need to change the type of oil significantly as the mileage increases. I also struggle to get cheap mineral oil these days, I rebuilt the engine in my Triumph Spitfire a few years ago and I still don't think it has run in properly after 6,000 miles with modern oils. Thinking of trying Fry Crisp and Dry....

I've always been of the view that it is more important how often you change the oil, rather than the exact oil type.

Old engines like those fitted to the Spitfire need to be bedded in on mineral based oils that don't contain high shear additives. If modern oils are used from the rebuild it will take forever to bed in. The engine was designed to be used with mineral oil, so that is best for the first 10K miles or so.
 
I need mineral oil for my Lister-D type stationary engine. Synthetic is a no no as it contains additives that will damage the primitive bearings used. It must use a non detergent, simple sae 30 / 40 mono grade but a simple multi grade will work.
A mineral oil won't damage an engine but it must be changed more often. I use a semi in my V6 Freelander.

Cool :cool: I think I have seen these at a car show , It was running a stone grinding wheat into flour .

So it uses these oils
Smith & Allan Classic Vintage Select SAE 40 Detergent Free Motor Oil 5 ltr | eBay

Smith & Allan Classic Vintage Select SAE 30 Detergent Free Motor Oil 5 ltr | eBay
 
I have been looking into oil's for the TD4 .

Mine is a 2000 TD4 and looking at the owners handbooks .

2000-2003 - 10w-40 or 15w-40 ACEA A3/B3 .

2004-2006 - 0w-30 , 5w-30 , 5w-40 , 10w-30 , 10w-40 , 10w-50 , 10w-50 ACEA A3/B3 . Depending on temperature were you live .

Engine oil temperature ranges
0W/30 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 35ºC (95ºF).
5W/30 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 35ºC (95ºF).
5W/40 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).
5W/50 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).
10W/30 will protect from -10ºC (14ºF) to 30ºC (86ºF).
10W/40 will protect from -10ºC (14ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).
10W/60 will protect from -10ºC (14ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).
 
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I have been looking into oil's for the TD4 .

Mine is a 2000 TD4 and looking at the owners handbooks .

2000-2003 - 10w-40 or 15w-40 ACEA A3/B3 .

2004-2006 - 0w-30 , 5w-30 , 5w-40 , 10w-30 , 10w-40 , 10w-50 , 10w-50 ACEA A3/B3 . Depending on temperature were you live .

Engine oil temperature ranges
0W/30 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 35ºC (95ºF).
5W/30 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 35ºC (95ºF).
5W/40 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).
5W/50 will protect from -30ºC (-22ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).
10W/30 will protect from -10ºC (14ºF) to 30ºC (86ºF).
10W/40 will protect from -10ºC (14ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).
10W/60 will protect from -10ºC (14ºF) to 50ºC (122ºF).

Might buy 5w40 for mine when I do an oil change if thats the working temps as it does get colder than -10 in the uk when the big freeze arrives
 
Yes here in Essex the coldest/highest temps on record are -11.3 & 33.5 deg C

I have been using 5w-30 but looks like we could reach the upper temp range if global warming go's up :lol:

looks like a 10w-40 semi or 5w-40 fully would be the best choice for me :)
 
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