Trumar

Trumar

Active Member
Land Rover series 2a 88” 1971. I have just taken off the rear tub! Bloody hard to do on me own lol. Chassis needs To be de-rusted not to bad from what I have seen, just need 3 or 4 10p size holes welded, then I want to protect it with what?? Any help would be very much appreciated!! Also what can I use to shove down inside chassis to help clean out and remove all the loose rust!!
 
Me too, i used a mobile crane to lift the chassis, the axles, the gearbox and the tub around.
I really am too old for the manual humping **** these days
 
I used planks of wood to slide tub up and down.

I found the POR 15 system very good , includes degreaser marine clean, rust converter, anti rust treatment and then topcoat , stays hard and shiny resistant to chipping and lasts…. Not cheap though and be very careful not to get paint on the paint tin lids or your hands it’ll take about 3 days to go
 
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Loads of products out there. All have good and bad points. Steam jetting seems to be the go to for inside the chassis but you need the expensive equipment or transport to a specialist. If your welding up holes it’s not much harder to open up some fist sized areas and get in there manually to remove crud.
Bilt hamber do a range of cavity treatments I like but the more expensive ranges usually out perform the cheap alternatives. Hard outer protection can fail when chipped and rot from behind the surface but soft waxy finishes need maintaining regularly with the advantage of making you inspect everything and catching issues early.
One thing is for sure. Rust proofing doesn’t exist or every bridge in the country wouldn’t need maintaining ever again. All we can do is keep looking and treating to slow the process.
I’m trying buzweld chassis paint at the moment. With their applicator gun you can achieve a smooth finish or speckled, it’s acrylic and reinforced with technical chit. Seems to be holding.
 
steve2286w said:
I used planks of wood to slide tub up and down.

I found the POR 15 system very good , includes degreaser marine clean, rust converter, anti rust treatment and then topcoat , stays hard and shiny resistant to chipping and lasts…. Not cheap though and be very careful not to get paint on the paint tin lids or your hands it’ll take about 3 days to go
Click to expand...
Thank you. Yeah I have heard of POR 15 I will look into it.
 
Bobsticle said:
Loads of products out there. All have good and bad points. Steam jetting seems to be the go to for inside the chassis but you need the expensive equipment or transport to a specialist. If your welding up holes it’s not much harder to open up some fist sized areas and get in there manually to remove crud.
Bilt hamber do a range of cavity treatments I like but the more expensive ranges usually out perform the cheap alternatives. Hard outer protection can fail when chipped and rot from behind the surface but soft waxy finishes need maintaining regularly with the advantage of making you inspect everything and catching issues early.
One thing is for sure. Rust proofing doesn’t exist or every bridge in the country wouldn’t need maintaining ever again. All we can do is keep looking and treating to slow the process.
I’m trying buzweld chassis paint at the moment. With their applicator gun you can achieve a smooth finish or speckled, it’s acrylic and reinforced with technical chit. Seems to be holding.
Click to expand...
Thank you. I appreciate your in-depth answer, not heard of Bilt hamber before but I will have a read up. I’m not flush with money but I don’t want to use to cheap treatment. I’m so glad you have told me that rust proofing doesn’t exist as I would be just looking at what rust proofs best. Looked at Buzweld but money won’t stretch that far. Wish I could as for what I have read it does seem the one to use. Good idea making bigger holes to get at the crud.
 
Personally I'd forget the car brand name stuff..I used after wire brushing a rust convertor then an oxide rich primer followed by a heavy duty gate and railing paint which takes at least 3 days to dry but I am in Portugal though...
IMG_20210929_130933.jpg
 
Epoxy zinc phosphate, 2k, followed by 2k epoxy mastic, 2k paint to top .then billt hamler dynax ub on the outside. The inside do with dynax s50.
 
Before you do any welding give the chassis a good steam/pressure clean inside and out. Lift chassis up to let moisture drain out and use an air line if you can to blast out any debris and damp.
Best done in summer or warm garage to ensure cavity's are dry. Bilt hammer has a good rep'. Can't remember the result, sorry, but Classics Monthly did an indepth review of anti rust products a while back so that may be worth a google ?
Me. I use a mix of Waxoyl, light engine oil and white spirit for thinning. It can be a bit messy but once warmed up it goes on pretty easy. A lance up and down the chassis rails and in any cavity is a must.
Just make sure it is all clean and dry before you start.
 
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