steve2286w
Well-Known Member
I would use a rust converter first, this gives a sound coating and works better with a bit of rust
I’ve been happy with POR 15 anti rust system , Frost’s sell it
I’ve been happy with POR 15 anti rust system , Frost’s sell it
I always coat bare metal with fertan, amazon sell it now, water based so great for spraying inside the chassis.
www.fertan.com
https://fertan.com/application-en/automotive/auto/underbody/
www.fertan.com
https://fertan.com/application-en/automotive/auto/underbody/
Bad idea.
I once dug out a load of waterlogged expanding foam from a canoe, wouldn’t want it inside a chassis
J
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
I think you can waterproof foam,(if you believe it) but would be a problem if you wanted to replace the wiring harness that runs in the chassis from front to back stick with waxoyl
Very bad idea. I had a 1980 ford Granada, Ford filled the Granada sills with foam to stop corrsion, remember this is when Cortina sills would fall off after 2 years. Damp got between the foam and tracked along inside the sill and stayed there with no air circulation and rotted it out. I have a 1990 Merc, no corrosion on the sills at all, but the sills are all vented with drain holes all along so my advise is clean, waxoil and keep all the drain holes clear.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
I've started using Blit Hambler, (something like that?).
It comes out of the can almost like petrol and wickes it's way through seams and dust, then sets like tough wax oil.
It comes out of the can almost like petrol and wickes it's way through seams and dust, then sets like tough wax oil.
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
Personally I would want to remove all of the old paint from the chassis before priming.
Have you tried one of the twisted wire cup brushes fitted to an electric angle grinder?
These are great for removing paint, old underseal and surface rust.
