A

Agroman

New Member
I have just spent a wonderful few hours under my new Disco with the pressure washer cleaning off the chassis and rest of underneath in readiness for giving it a good Waxoyling once it has dried in a week or 2's time.
Am I better to just Waxoyl the whole lot? obviously this will quicker. I have a compressor and Shultz gun / probe. Or should I take the time to spray the outside of the chassis with some zinc rich primer and black top coat. The rust is not too bad compared to some of the Discos I looked at before buying this one. Just surface rust no shale yet. Worst place was the rear step arm but I can easily unbolt this and give it a bit more tlc with the grinder, it may also need a bit of welding at the bottom pivot point, but as new ones seem to be about £200 I think I will spend some time repairing the original. Looks like the damper has been replaced recently.

Also should I use Ankor wax or Waxoyl or another brand? I have best part of a tin of Waxoyl on the shelf to start the job anyway.
 
depends on the chassis condition if its fairly rust free primer and a more expensive wax will help if its ,if not unless you clean it up your best just blasting waxoyl inside and out
 
I have a similar situation. I have been thinking on this quite a bit but first I would say I have sod all experience in cars and repairing the etc. I am just learning as I go along.
My plan is such.
Scrape of loose rust with a wire brush on a drill / angle grinder,with brush on larger surfaces. Use rust removing chemical on bottom of chasis. Re brush to key and get better metal,contact.
Power wash.
Paint bottom of chasis where it is easier to get to bare metal with a zinc paint.
Spray with used warm oil as unlikely to get a nice dry surface at the moment for wax oiling.
Return in summer with a degrease and proper rust hardening treatment.

Any thoughts welcome.
 
ldrego said:
I have a similar situation. I have been thinking on this quite a bit but first I would say I have sod all experience in cars and repairing the etc. I am just learning as I go along.
My plan is such.
Scrape of loose rust with a wire brush on a drill / angle grinder,with brush on larger surfaces. Use rust removing chemical on bottom of chasis. Re brush to key and get better metal,contact.
Power wash.
Paint bottom of chasis where it is easier to get to bare metal with a zinc paint.
Spray with used warm oil as unlikely to get a nice dry surface at the moment for wax oiling.
Return in summer with a degrease and proper rust hardening treatment.

Any thoughts welcome.
Click to expand...

it's a **** job, if your gonna do summat, get on and get it done, clean it off and paint as you go along, as this time of year it will soon oxidise, get plenty inside of the chassis as they rust inside out from the back,
this is how i do it!!:eek:
 
Painting with a zinc rich primer then top coat will give you better protection in the high impact areas such as where the chassis is near the wheels. However you would need to do a good job to the prep of any existing rust. A wire brush on a grinder + rust killer the stuff that goes black on the rust. However there is a risk that any active rust can fester under paint layers. It is then difficult to get at without stripping the paint off again. I think I prefer to just go with wax all over and be prepared to reapply every year in the high impact areas. At least you can see if its failing anywhere.
I just used a revolving ball type nozzle on my pressure washer, it's quite aggressive so has taken any dodgy paint off ready for the waxoyl once its dry. Luckily I don't have to use it for a few weeks so it can sit in the shed and dry. I think I might put some black paint on some of the mechanicals just to improve appearance - The diffs etc. I will do this 1st before spraying wax about. It will also make them nicer to work on in the future if / when the need arises. Waxoyl is ok but it gets mucky when you are working on the mech bits.
Should I thin the waxoyl with a little white spirit at this time of the year? I will warm it up 1st as well. Keep the pressure on the compressor up - say 50psi.
 
discodrivercumbria said:
it's a **** job, if your gonna do summat, get on and get it done, clean it off and paint as you go along, as this time of year it will soon oxidise, get plenty inside of the chassis as they rust inside out from the back,
this is how i do it!!:eek:
Click to expand...

Lol. Best be getting on with it then. I first need to negotiate that crappy 32mm gearbox nut to get that oil! You are correct in saying it much time though.
 
Are you happy getting under that??
I could do similar but my Ford Dexta with front loader is currently in bits in the workshop having a complete rebuilt, but that's another story and forum!!
The HD torque convertor swap for the Disco will have to wait until / if the tractor is finished and out of the workshop. So it will be axle stands / ramps for me and a staining back to spray the waxoyl. Oh for a four poster lift!
 
Agroman said:
Are you happy getting under that??
I could do similar but my Ford Dexta with front loader is currently in bits in the workshop having a complete rebuilt, but that's another story and forum!!
The HD torque convertor swap for the Disco will have to wait until / if the tractor is finished and out of the workshop. So it will be axle stands / ramps for me and a staining back to spray the waxoyl. Oh for a four poster lift!
Click to expand...

i actually put 2 acro props under the axle, it is chained to the telehandler and chocked at the front! when i do it, the pic is of it raised,
 
Agroman said:
Are you happy getting under that??
I could do similar but my Ford Dexta with front loader is currently in bits in the workshop having a complete rebuilt, but that's another story and forum!!
The HD torque convertor swap for the Disco will have to wait until / if the tractor is finished and out of the workshop. So it will be axle stands / ramps for me and a staining back to spray the waxoyl. Oh for a four poster lift!
Click to expand...

Nope. I am jacking it up at the front with a 3 ton jack. Placing 3t wheel ramps under the wheels. Lettung the ramps take the strain. Spare tyres underneath , wheel chicks on the back wheels and gears shifted to low and first just in case.
That should be ok. If it fails I will make the news.
Did the karcher shift enough rust away?
 
Pressure washer (Alto actually) did a pretty good job. The revolving ball nozzle is quite aggressive, put your hand in front and you know about it. Luckily the rust on mine is fairly superficial, hence why I bought it in the 1st place. If your rust is deeper seated it might need more aggressive treatment. Trouble is, the problem is often in the areas you can't get at easily with a grinder etc. You could always strip body and mechanicals off the chassis if you fancy a job, that would make access better! :eek: If there is active rust then the waxoyl will work on it anyway so no need for it to be completely de rusted. Prep before painting would need to be more thorough.
 
I got the oil out from the gearbox but it is like mud so that was no use whatsoever. The ramps thought make assessing the chassis so much easier.
 
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