what mask are you using. I have a clear glass one that goes dark when welding. also for the V joint I welded both sides for strength this is because my mig as well as yours will struggle a bit penetrating 3mm still. You could go for 2mm which will weld better but not as stong.
As for the weld pool I did it in stages. I spot welded the metal together then welded in between the spots. like dot to dot. bering in mind the welds have not got to look good as its the chassis just strong.
out of intrest what gas are you using and were did you get yours from

same type of mask as you, although more tinted before turning dark. my garage is under my house and the lighting does need improving. also i did the chassis back in december on a cloudy day. i ended up holding a small led torch alongside the torch which helped a lot. i`m using clarkes own co2 gas 1 litre bottle with 0.6 wire. have done lots of practise welds and then tried to tear or bash them apart without success. so am assuming they`re ok. they don`t always look pretty though. did read some where that using 0.8 wire will draw more current which will allow more penetration on thicker metal. clarkes do claim up to 6mm with this welder, maybe a bit optimistic. yet to test this out though. gonna keep practising as its something i want to get good at. so many things to make

sound like you need a portable food light. thats what I used. I also used 0.8mm for 3mm steel. as for the gas is it CO2 only, you will be better of with an Argon mix say 90%argon/CO2.
my welds dont look prity when i do them but you can grind them down to look good. the braking them apart test is what i did and the most important thing when chassis welding. Cant see the clark 150 penetrating through 6mm steel. a lot of manufacturers exagerate what they can do. you wold probalbly burn your welder out before you weld through thin thick steel. have a look at the link i posted on here. there are some good tuition on the web for mig welding

richard chassis have put an advert in landrover monthly they are now doing disco 2 chassis. they havent put an artical in like i expected and there is no pricing. Any one phoned them yet see how much the disco 2 chassis are. I'm still hoping they start producing the rear end ar a replacment part like they do on the defenders.
I might ring them later in the year when i have some money

you don't need money to ring for a quote, i sold my disco as it was rotting on the same section as yours, couldn't bring myself to weld it, i knew the rust was there! so nails in coffin scenario, shame! you would think Landrover as a front leader in 4wd would of got the rust sorted? it is 2012! not 1980 like the tail end of the series 3 ,had a 2004 accident damaged one to repair for myself, sold that too, sundays are free now, lol

Thought peeps might like to see this e-mail reply to my question about DII chassis:

"Good morning, The price for our discovery chassis is £1800.00 +VAT, when you re-build the chassis could we have the body mounts off your original chassis back, please?

Kindest regards Spike

Richards Chassis Unit F2/3 Swinton Bridge Industrial Estate
Whitelee Road
Swinton
Mexbough S64 8BH
(01709) 577477

Info@richardschassis.co.uk"


So what do you think about £1800 versus a Def 110 chassis @ £1235 +vat?

Dave

No need for it to be death sentence, I have now repaired and replaced several TD5 chassis rear Sections. Got the templates all made up and even repair the crossmember too which is always rotten. I remove all the piping and wiring, the Rear bumper, Towbar (if fitted),Rear Exhaust section and fuel Tank.
I then cut away all the interior chassis section where the fuel tank used to sit as far forward as the first crossmember and fit the new 3mm replacement plates cut to the same dimentions as the originals. Then I add bracing across the plates and also acros the back of the chassis holding the bumper mounts and rear body mounts in place allowing for easy relocation.
The Chassis is then cut from the vehicle just rearward of the crossmember, the body bolts undone and the chassis removed to the bench...the rest of the old chassis is then cut away on the bench and replaced with the new sections again in 3mm steel and seam welded with red oxide coating to the inner panels before final seam welding ( I know a lot will get burned off but youd be surprised how much stays in place) the Tow bar mounts are then added to the chassis rails along with al the other ancillary brackets etc and the whole thing coated in red oxide.
Next the new chasis section is offered back up to the vehicle and seam welded back in place..for extra strength ive started adding cheek plates over the welds but it really is over kill..all threads are retapped(they always need it) and the chassis is then oil sprayed from the open ends at the rear..all components are refitted and its as good as new, infact its better and will outlast the rest of the vehicle.
I have one in the workshop now which is in terrible state (I think it was made from some chocolate they borrowed from down the road) and will upload some pictures when I have finished so you can all see the finished article, and of course how it looked before.
Also have done the front chassis sections just as it goes under the floorpan these always collect water and rot away from the inside, they are a real pig to do but the end result is worth it. Yet to see a TD5 Disco chassis that isnt showing the effects of tinworm why they built the chassis from such poor metal is a mystery..I have a 96 300TDi i run and the chassis is mint..unfortunately the floorpan fell to bits along with the inner wings so all that was rebuilt too, TD5 Bodywork is like new but chassis rots Go figure that one???.

Steve
Minivation

Minivation said:

No need for it to be death sentence, I have now repaired and replaced several TD5 chassis rear Sections. Got the templates all made up and even repair the crossmember too which is always rotten. I remove all the piping and wiring, the Rear bumper, Towbar (if fitted),Rear Exhaust section and fuel Tank.
I then cut away all the interior chassis section where the fuel tank used to sit as far forward as the first crossmember and fit the new 3mm replacement plates cut to the same dimentions as the originals. Then I add bracing across the plates and also acros the back of the chassis holding the bumper mounts and rear body mounts in place allowing for easy relocation.
The Chassis is then cut from the vehicle just rearward of the crossmember, the body bolts undone and the chassis removed to the bench...the rest of the old chassis is then cut away on the bench and replaced with the new sections again in 3mm steel and seam welded with red oxide coating to the inner panels before final seam welding ( I know a lot will get burned off but youd be surprised how much stays in place) the Tow bar mounts are then added to the chassis rails along with al the other ancillary brackets etc and the whole thing coated in red oxide.
Next the new chasis section is offered back up to the vehicle and seam welded back in place..for extra strength ive started adding cheek plates over the welds but it really is over kill..all threads are retapped(they always need it) and the chassis is then oil sprayed from the open ends at the rear..all components are refitted and its as good as new, infact its better and will outlast the rest of the vehicle.
I have one in the workshop now which is in terrible state (I think it was made from some chocolate they borrowed from down the road) and will upload some pictures when I have finished so you can all see the finished article, and of course how it looked before.
Also have done the front chassis sections just as it goes under the floorpan these always collect water and rot away from the inside, they are a real pig to do but the end result is worth it. Yet to see a TD5 Disco chassis that isnt showing the effects of tinworm why they built the chassis from such poor metal is a mystery..I have a 96 300TDi i run and the chassis is mint..unfortunately the floorpan fell to bits along with the inner wings so all that was rebuilt too, TD5 Bodywork is like new but chassis rots Go figure that one???.

Steve
Minivation

Click to expand...

:nopics:

lookin forward to them

oh, and
:welcome2:

Also very keen to see and how much do you charge? How long do you need the car for and does the petrol tank need to come out?

Cheers

JIMZ said:

Also very keen to see and how much do you charge? How long do you need the car for and does the petrol tank need to come out?

Cheers

Click to expand...

Not really possible to say how much I charge for this as every one of them has rot to a different degree, I didnt really put this on here to advertise my services more to demonstrate that it can be repaired and be repaired well...but for information the TD5 I have now will be in the region of £1200.00 and will take around 10 days to complete...this includes rebuilding the rear crossmember which is always rotten due to being a water trap behind the fuel tank..which in itself answers your question regarding fuel tank removal...yes its got to come out...the owner of this vehicle will be happy the fuel tank has been removed as well..you should see the muck that came out of the tank I poured it into an oil meausring jug and there is up to the 2 litre mark of pure silt from the tank....imagine the damage that is doing to the fuel system...
The pictures will speak for themselves and should show step by step the repair in progress..like I have already said I will upload all the pics when the job is complete...spent today cutting out the new chassis rail sides tops and bottom rails and tow bar strentheners...tomorrow I will be removing the inner chassis rails and welding in the bracing..before cutting the rear section from the vehicle...the last one I did required the front chassis repairing too and it was on the strength of that repair I got this one recommended to me by the MOT Station..the rear section was full of weekend warrior plates which were removed with just a good beating with a hammer..the welds were to rust and the plates were a complete waste of time..this guy had been towing a heavy trailer with the vehicle and I would say he was lucky to have not had it break loose..there is only one cure for the rust and that is to completely remove the effected area right back to good solid metal and rebuild....Had a lifelong Landrover chap in the workshop while I was cutting the new components and trial fitting..he seemed very impressed and would like his repairing too and thats a much later vehicle so these chassis are very poor quality whatever their age..it was this chap that suggested I put the pics on here and show how to repair the damage hence why I have joined the site..I am happy to advise anyone wishing to go about this repair but I would caution anyone without a decent High end welder and some good welding experience...you could make more work than was there before its critical to get everything lined up correctly or the Tank will not go back in its a very snug fit...I find the way I do it the best way and the finished result is spot on and will outlast the rest of the chassis..

Happy to help

Steve
Minivation

:hysterically_laughi
weekend warrior, lmao!

op2:
pics should be good.

Sorry to everyone its been a while since I said I would post the photos of the ongoing TD5 Chassis Repair, the reason for this has been the TD5 I am working on right now is probably the worst chassis I have ever had to repair and what started out as just a rear end repair has now extended to just forward of the rear wheels entailing removal of the Shock absorber Mount and the Spring Retainer Bracket ( A very big job)..this has meant a whole different approach to my usual method in that the rear end has had to stay in the vehicle or else everything would go to cock and not re-align. I have taken plenty of pictures but unfortunately havent been able to upload them to here..I have tried several times now so I guess i must be doing something wrong..If one of you guys could point me in the right direction then I will post the whole repair process so everyone can see.

Steve

At last I have a link to my photos so you can view the complete repair process. This Disco 2 was probably the worst I have had to repair and the chassis rot extended from the rear to just inside the outriggers under the passenger doors on both sides..grab a look at the weekend warrior plate inside the spring turret its a real gem it was just a plate with a run of weld all the way around the edge and then just a spot of weld at the bottom where they could get access.....somebody was charged for that repair..."shocking"!!!
Flickr: wrayclassics' Photostream

once all the welding was complete the whole repair was sand blasted primed and then painted in black 2 pack which is better than powder coating as it doesnt chip so easy then the whole lot sprayed in Shutz underbody sealer..finally all the internals were injected with an engine and gear oil mixture which should stick to everything inside nicely and help to avoid the dreaded tinworm..took this vehicle for the MOT and it sailed through as have all the others....

Minivation said:

Sorry to everyone its been a while since I said I would post the photos of the ongoing TD5 Chassis Repair, the reason for this has been the TD5 I am working on right now is probably the worst chassis I have ever had to repair and what started out as just a rear end repair has now extended to just forward of the rear wheels entailing removal of the Shock absorber Mount and the Spring Retainer Bracket ( A very big job)..this has meant a whole different approach to my usual method in that the rear end has had to stay in the vehicle or else everything would go to cock and not re-align. I have taken plenty of pictures but unfortunately havent been able to upload them to here..I have tried several times now so I guess i must be doing something wrong..If one of you guys could point me in the right direction then I will post the whole repair process so everyone can see.

Steve

Click to expand...

cant seem to grab a full size image off flickr.
yer need to try photobucket!

seems a nice job, like the marking for the turret replacement!
are you a restorer by trade or is this a past-time?

I will try and upload some of these pics to photo bucket so you can grab a full size picture although it took two hours to upload them to Flikr...
I have been restoring vehicles for more years than I care to remember now..its what happens when your first cars a Mini and your a Mechanic I guess...lol...
I work on vehicles almost full time as my other work is on a consulting basis and tends to be a few months a year..I have just tried to remain specialising in Classic Minis and Landrovers although we do undertake some other projects from time to time..we do have a couple of workshops that are very well equiped with everything needed for Panelwork including bending press, guillotines Mig and Tig welders and spraying equipment. As we dont rely soley on vehicles for an income we are fortunate we can spend a bit more time than most on a project.
Seems we are getting quite a lot of TD5 Discos with the same degree of rust to the rear end of the chassis although the one in the photo is extreme to say the least.However everyone has been extremely pleased with our end results (and price !!).

Steve
:nospamhere:

nrgserv said:

cant seem to grab a full size image off flickr.
yer need to try photobucket!

seems a nice job, like the marking for the turret replacement!
are you a restorer by trade or is this a past-time?

Click to expand...

Thanks for the photos, scared the sh1t out of me though!

If mine needs £1200 spending on it, it will be scrapped, just not worth it with the prices going the way they are.

Think I will have some fun and then move it on with a bit of MOT remaining.

Thanks for the education though.

Jim

Minivation said:

At last I have a link to my photos so you can view the complete repair process. This Disco 2 was probably the worst I have had to repair and the chassis rot extended from the rear to just inside the outriggers under the passenger doors on both sides..grab a look at the weekend warrior plate inside the spring turret its a real gem it was just a plate with a run of weld all the way around the edge and then just a spot of weld at the bottom where they could get access.....somebody was charged for that repair..."shocking"!!!
Flickr: wrayclassics' Photostream

once all the welding was complete the whole repair was sand blasted primed and then painted in black 2 pack which is better than powder coating as it doesnt chip so easy then the whole lot sprayed in Shutz underbody sealer..finally all the internals were injected with an engine and gear oil mixture which should stick to everything inside nicely and help to avoid the dreaded tinworm..took this vehicle for the MOT and it sailed through as have all the others....

Click to expand...

Just gone through all the pictures and I must say that I admire and respect the quality of your work and attention to detail.

I also have a D2 with a dodgy chassis and am just researching my options. As you can see I live in France but if I need to I could bring it back to UK for the chassis repair - whereabouts are you located please?

Cheers
Dave

looking at the work involved and potential problems i.e finding more and more rot , id just do the chassis swap

Minivation,

I know this is an old thread - do you still repair Disco 2 chassis?

Thank you

Gavin