It did come with another windsceen, bonnet, a hard top, front grill, and a load of other parts, it also had defender seats fitted and it's got a disco 200tdi engine, so I guess it's not totally original. I suppose as I got it free I can't really complain though
It was never going to be a factory restoration, I just want a fun project car I can enjoy when it's done. It's the first classic I've had so happy to hear advise and opinions. In fact I would welcome constructive critism and any advice as want to get it done right so it doesn't spend the rest of its life in bits
 
robd1975 said:
It did come with another windsceen, bonnet, a hard top, front grill, and a load of other parts, it also had defender seats fitted and it's got a disco 200tdi engine, so I guess it's not totally original. I suppose as I got it free I can't really complain though
It was never going to be a factory restoration, I just want a fun project car I can enjoy when it's done. It's the first classic I've had so happy to hear advise and opinions. In fact I would welcome constructive critism and any advice as want to get it done right so it doesn't spend the rest of its life in bits
Click to expand...

my s3 has fender seats, much comfier, I am not bothered about originality, I just want a truck that goes :D

one of the beauties of landies you can do what you want with them, be boring if they were all as they left the factory
 
So I cut some rot this morning and cut a plate to fit the gap. Is this right or should it overlap for added strength?
 

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Looks good to me too. To avoid having to do too much shaping, I generally chop out the rust, cut a rectangular patch big enough to cover it all, then draw round the patch onto the chassis, cut out with a slitting disc, and butt-weld the patch in. Tidying up the irregular hole to match the patch is easier than shaping the patch to fit the irregular hole.
 
I prefer to cut in flush wherever possible. It makes for a tidier job and I'm not keen on doubling up creating rigid points which increases stress during flexing.
 
blue beasty said:
I prefer to cut in flush wherever possible. It makes for a tidier job and I'm not keen on doubling up creating rigid points which increases stress during flexing.
Click to expand...
Absolutely - to clarify what I was saying, it's easiest to make a rectangular piece, then cut out a matching hole in the chassis using your patch as a template, then flush the patch into the hole. Don't slap a patch on it if it can at all be avoided.
 
Thanks, on the next section will cut the patch price then cut the chassis for a neater finish. Here I was trying to keep as much metal as I could. I appreciate the advice.
 
I cut and merged after grinding the waxsol off and then non destructive sound testing (hammer) i replaced 25% of the chassis, and then failed the MOT on a 2x2" patch I tack welded under the load bed to take the load. Because they thought it was part of the chassis it had to be considered structural, thus tack welding was no good. So I saved up and got a new chassis which is not 3" longer on one side than the other. Mind you they failed a car for mot because it had a tax disc in the window.
 
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