tomhop · Jun 18, 2016

got the landy all stripped down to the bear chassis ready to get shot blasted then galvanised, the only bit i am not sure about is the top pins for the shocks they look like they should come out before it goes away how do you get them out (pictured below)

also the bush for the leaf spring is there an eassy wya to remove them (the 2nd picture) any help would be great.

Magicgrotto · Jun 18, 2016

Hi tomhop
You have to press them out !

Have a look at some of the resto threads on here & it will ex plane on how you do it !

Hope this helps

Magic / Steve

ging360 · Jun 19, 2016

Items needed:
1) large capacity g clamp
2) a large preferably deep socket with a diameter just large enough that it will sit on the carrier tube but not obstruct the bush coming out.
3) a solid brass or steel length (a bit longer than the length of the carrier tube) of bar just smaller that the diameter of the bush.
4) a long ish pipe that will slip over the handle of the of the g clamp.
5) possibly an extra pair of hands for the start to help.
Open the g clamp up till the opening is just large enough to accommodate the socket, chassis carrier tube and length of bar. Place the socket over one of the carrier tube openings and hold it in place with the solid clamping face of the g clamp. Then put the solid bar between the other end of the bush and flexible clamping face and the nip up by turning the spindle with your fingers you should be able then to have one hand free to start tightening using the handle.

If all else fails brass punch and a hammer.

Rattlegun · Jun 19, 2016

All that fancy pants stuff will be very hard and may be impossible. Drill out the rubber with a 3mm approx drill bit then tap out the centre, then use a new hacksaw blade to cut along the outer part then it will tap out quite easy, takes about 10 mins.

tomhop · Jun 19, 2016

Thanks for all the help may try it with my bottle jack as the chassis is flawless on the floor, were there's a will there's a way!

tomhop · Jun 19, 2016

Bloody predictive text!

kommer2013 · Jun 20, 2016

tomhop said:
chassis ready to get shot blasted then galvanised,

i dont think the chassis needs to be shot blasted as the everything that is galvanised get an acid dip/bath before its galvanised

kommer2013 · Jun 20, 2016

also i have noticed in the pics that the chassis looks to be galvanised already as you can see the white corrosion from the breakdown of the zinc coating, id just get it soda blasted and just get a industrial coating on there, preferably a two pack epoxy based paint with a suitable etch primer under coat so the top coat will stick and not peel off down the track. it should last a good few years on there, but get a professional industrial painter to do it.

tomhop · Jun 20, 2016

I will get some more pictures of it posted the old galvanising is coming off in places and there is a fair bit of surface rust. The local galv place can do it for £250 so thought it was worth doing again but I will see what you all think first

1977 · Jun 20, 2016

Be careful when drifting the bushes out, I seriously distorted my chassis when I did it! it was quite rusted and twisted already, but I managed to distort it as much as 2cm, and crack the steel below it.

tomhop · Jun 20, 2016

here are a few pictures of the rusty spots on the chassis, my options are:
1. spend the mony £100 to sand strip the chassis then patch any bits needing attention then £250 to galvanise again then paint with chassis black all done nothing more to worry about for a while.
2. Get the angle grinder out and clean up rusty areas give it a good steam clean with the power washer then send to galvanisers etc
3. wire wheel then paint rusty areas then paint and hope for the best
I have the money saved up from birthday gifts and putting a little aside to do it the first way and i thought at least i would have peace of mind that its all rock solid underneath. have a look at the pictures and let me know what you think. cheers
P.S the front is pretty good not much rust at all just the back half.

Disco1BFG · Jun 20, 2016

I think I would more concerned about rust inside the chassis - which you can't see. IOW, how much of the galv inside the chassis has fallen off ?

Was this a proprietary galv chassis ? or a plain steel galved aftermarket, so to speak?

tomhop · Jun 20, 2016

unfortunately i don't know much of the history of this landy i bought it from a guy with no paper work and no history, i have re registered it and transferred ownership to my name with the DVLA's help but that is it.

John S · Jun 20, 2016

1977 said:
Be careful when drifting the bushes out, I seriously distorted my chassis when I did it! it was quite rusted and twisted already, but I managed to distort it as much as 2cm, and crack the steel below it.

Getting the bushes out is a right bastard of a job. If they have been in there for a long time best to burn the rubber out. Its smelly and slow but it works. Eventually the inside sleeve can be drifted out. The outer sleeve of the bush can then be hack sawed out. Its slow and dirty but they will come out. Ream the holes as they get ovaled through time. I tend to agree with other posts that galvanizing isn't perhaps the best option. I'd use brushes and needle gun to clean it up. Then consider what welding needed. Galvanizing isn't a silver bullet restoration process.

kommer2013 · Jun 20, 2016

tomhop said:
unfortunately i don't know much of the history of this landy i bought it from a guy with no paper work and no history, i have re registered it and transferred ownership to my name with the DVLA's help but that is it.

just had a look at the pictures you have posted and yep she does need to be regalved, grit blasting probably wouldnt hurt to be honest

tomhop · Jun 21, 2016

thanks Tony i think the best thing is to get it blasted the guy charges by the hour so its not going to cost much to get the rough areas tidied up, then patch up and galvanised for all the cost it will be worth it.
one more question would it be better to patch the outriggers (there is one with a tiny hole) or cut them off and get the local smiddy to weld a new one on?

tomhop · Jun 21, 2016

are you sure these are meant to press out? i got the 4 for the leaf springs out (burnt the bugger's out) but started hammering at the top mount for the shock absorber and it doesn't look like its shifting.......
the last one is of the back of the peg pictured in the first 2 photos

(whats its proper name?)

kommer2013 · Jun 22, 2016

tomhop said:
thanks Tony i think the best thing is to get it blasted the guy charges by the hour so its not going to cost much to get the rough areas tidied up, then patch up and galvanised for all the cost it will be worth it.
one more question would it be better to patch the outriggers (there is one with a tiny hole) or cut them off and get the local smiddy to weld a new one on?

just put patches on as the galvanising will seal the the work done and shouldnt need anymore work done after that.

tomhop · Jun 22, 2016

just took it to a mate and these pegs/pins are welded in and can just stay put i can sand them down if needs be after the galv

kommer2013 · Jun 22, 2016

tomhop said:
just took it to a mate and these pegs/pins are welded in and can just stay put i can sand them down if needs be after the galv

I was going to tell you yesterday they look like they are welded in and can be left there, ahh well, you found out anyway.

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