B

BostonSpaDefender

New Member
So, the 110 that I bought a couple of months ago passed it's test - new shocks, drop links and bits and pieces but nothing too bad.


I have now started to clean up the chassis and have noticed a few things that concern me. So I am looking for either reassurance or confirmation of my fears.

1. It has had a repair to the rear section and cross member (replacement section) that was done a few years ago. Should I be worried? Does anyone have any experience of similar repairs?

2. I scrapped out a bit of rust from underneath the bulk head on the passenger side - no sign of rot on the outside of the bulk head and not sign of rot on the floor pans.

So my question is does this sound like a heap of trouble waiting to happen and I should get rid of the truck or is it to be expected with a 16 year old Landy?????
 
Cheers. That was my thought. As this is my first Landy I am still trying to get my head around what is to be expected and what should send me running for the hills!
 
BostonSpaDefender said:
new shocks, drop links and bits and pieces
Click to expand...

So, what I need new after a longish run...

BostonSpaDefender said:
1. It has had a repair to the rear section and cross member (replacement section) that was done a few years ago. Should I be worried? Does anyone have any experience of similar repairs?
Click to expand...

No, you should be reassured it wont need touching for a loooooong time. So about 5 years. :D
That's quite normal. If it's still fresh-ish i'd treat it somehow against rust.

BostonSpaDefender said:
2. I scrapped out a bit of rust from underneath the bulk head on the passenger side - no sign of rot on the outside of the bulk head and not sign of rot on the floor pans.
Click to expand...

Great. Have cookie and a beer. Everything's fine. A full ton of steel has to have some oxidation running, innit?

BostonSpaDefender said:
So my question is does this sound like a heap of trouble waiting to happen and I should get rid of the truck or is it to be expected with a 16 year old Landy?????
Click to expand...

IMHO that's quite good actually. Like the doctor from Stressed Eric would say: "Relaaaaaax"
Have a beer.
THAT's rust:
P1010540.jpg
 
Try and get up inside the bulkhead from under the door pillars with the waxoyl or similar product and give it a good spray inside ,the cleaner it is to start with the better so get rid of all visible rust where you can.
 
philvy said:
So, what I need new after a longish run...



No, you should be reassured it wont need touching for a loooooong time. So about 5 years. :D
That's quite normal. If it's still fresh-ish i'd treat it somehow against rust.



Great. Have cookie and a beer. Everything's fine. A full ton of steel has to have some oxidation running, innit?



IMHO that's quite good actually. Like the doctor from Stressed Eric would say: "Relaaaaaax"
Have a beer.
THAT's rust:
P1010540.jpg
Click to expand...
Holy **** dude !!
 
Well if it makes you feel better if they are the only issues you have found then you should ne grinning. I've spent hours welding on my "new" 110..

both top corners of the bulkhead, both footwells, a patch on 1 outrigger and finally 1 large patch on the rear chassis behind the suspension.
All measured and made from scratch panels.. 3mm steel.

I'm now seriosuly worried that with the large patch (and several other existing patches) that the mot guy may just say the chassis has too many patches/welded sections... but hey ho I only paid 700 for it and I can always re-chassis it I guess.

So.. if it passed an mot and they are only small issues.. paint, protect and wax oil away with a BIG smile.
 
bigsi13 said:
Try and get up inside the bulkhead from under the door pillars with the waxoyl or similar product and give it a good spray inside ,the cleaner it is to start with the better so get rid of all visible rust where you can.
Click to expand...


Agree with the guys

Removing the top door hinge on each side and feeding a flexible tube in attached to a schutz gun is an easy way to spray inside the bulkhead. If yours has rubber grommets by the wiper blades as well, remove and also feed the tube through there.

Well worth spraying inside all the chassis box sections as well - personally prefer ankor wax - easier to spray than waxoyl and better at chasing any damp away - waxoyl can trap
 
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