border

border

Well-Known Member
Hoping to get the ball rolling and get my 110 Chassis Galvanised in January.
Need to get it shot blasted first and then sent to GALV company.
Now it is completely bare apart from bolts that are in the engine mounts, but I'm sure that these are welded too.
Can I leave bolts in place ? before Blast and Galv or do they have to be removed ? and does anything else have to be done before its ready to go ?
Thanks
 
Sounds interesting, but shot blasting will only clean the outside, how is the inside being cleaned?

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Sounds interesting, but shot blasting will only clean the outside, how is the inside being cleaned?

Cheers
Click to expand...
Don't really know the process Mate, but I know they dip it in some kind of Acid before they Galvanise it.
 
border said:
Don't really know the process Mate, but I know they dip it in some kind of Acid before they Galvanise it.
Click to expand...

Yes, Seen how it is done, but wonder if your chassis is as dirty as mine has been in the past, how they get the years of crud out of it ,as I imagine it will a take a while for the acid to get thru the crud and remove it, if it would do a complete job?. Are you not planning on pressure washing / steam cleaning the chassis out before hand?

Cheers
 
These are Cooked in large oven to remove paint.
When cold this is then Dipped in a cleaning solution.
Anything attached to the chassis will be galved. Don't leave bolts on.

Clean chassis rails out well.
If you want some good security bead weld some ID onto the chassis that will show through the galv. If someone removes this it will show to all.

Do the following.
Drill all holes out a few mm larger. When it comes back they will not need as much cleaning for bolts to fit.
Send engine mounts & gear box cross member.
Also drill out the drain holes on the lower rear chassis rail.

Chat to the company doing the galving they may have other requirements

Enjoy your build
 
There are no bolts in a standard chassis.
I used to work in a galv place and they won't be interested in the inside and if it comes clean on the outside from the blasters it probably won't go in the acid tank at all, maybe not even the flux tank but straight into the zinc bath.
Get as much muck out the chassis as you can before sending it off then ask the blasters to poke the nozzle up every opening they can find but they may not bother cos you won't be able to tell.
 
It is a very clean chassis for its age, just had rear crossmember fitted and could not see any crud or muck inside but I could get it it pressure washed, The company did mention drilling bigger holes in so will get back on to them, also will get the shot blaster to try and get most of it out.
Photo before stripped, like I say just a few bolts left in.
 

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border said:
It is a very clean chassis for its age, just had rear crossmember fitted and could not see any crud or muck inside but I could get it it pressure washed, The company did mention drilling bigger holes in so will get back on to them, also will get the shot blaster to try and get most of it out.
Photo before stripped, like I say just a few bolts left in.
Click to expand...

Your chassis looks as clean as mine did, from the outside. I had the same plan to repair and galvanise mine. I had 2 holes starting to develop between the spring mount and crossmember, so I cut a patch to be replaced. When I opened it, the chassis was ****ed. The steel appeared to have delaminated and peeling with rust. It wasn’t worth the effort to repair it.

I spoke to two galvanising places, one said the wouldn’t touch “old” steel, the other wouldn’t warrant/guarantee anything. They said they would prep and dip it, but that’s it. They also wanted full price for it, even though they didn’t think it would work.

It’s up to you, but I wouldn’t bother with trying to galvanise it, instead, get it as clean as possible and give it a decent paint protection system. Save up for a few years and put a new galv chassis under it.
 
You'll never get the inside clean enough to galv, you have to remove any old paint ect
I can't see any way that's economically possible, the acid is only for rust/millscale
 
Well all that's got me thinking now. I'm sure there's people on here had the same thing done to there old Chassis before. There's a Landrover place near me that actually takes them up to Scotland for Galv then picks them up
 
I galved my chassis in Birmingham.
Made changes then took it in with some others. Checked dimensions before & after galv & no twisting.

Most places They charge per weight of galv applied and collection/delivery
 
Hicap phill said:
I galved my chassis in Birmingham.
Made changes then took it in with some others. Checked dimensions before & after galv & no twisting.

Most places They charge per weight of galv applied and collection/delivery
Click to expand...
The shot blasting is going to cost the most, theres a company close to me that will do it, Ive spoken to them and they seem to know what they are doing the said for Galvanising it has to be done with some kind of Bead to get it really clean, they also stand them up on end to blast all the crud out, they have done them before ready to be sent off for Galv.
£240 for Blasting and £130 for Galvanising, probably a bit more if I have to take it to them myself.
 
border said:
The shot blasting is going to cost the most, theres a company close to me that will do it, Ive spoken to them and they seem to know what they are doing the said for Galvanising it has to be done with some kind of Bead to get it really clean, they also stand them up on end to blast all the crud out, they have done them before ready to be sent off for Galv.
£240 for Blasting and £130 for Galvanising, probably a bit more if I have to take it to them myself.
Click to expand...

I spoke to MD Shotblasting as we used them for work, and they do rebuild things (they have a Porsche in their shop being built up, or at least they did), I’m sure it was going to be around £100-150 if I sorted transport to them.

No disrespect, but that chassis can’t be that good really, if it is, why change the outriggers/bulkhead mounts? If your dead set on getting it done, cut two small squares out of the lowest point of the chassis rails and inspect the insides thoroughly. I hope you aren’t, but you may well be surprised like I was. Sounded good all along it, didn’t bend when struck with a hammer, but delaminated. If the chassis isn’t that bad, get the blasters to use the holes to send a load bead down. When home, get as much out as possible, use an air line or water and flush it all out. Weld the hole and send straight to galvanisers. Surface rust isn’t a problem, so should be ok.
 
When we cut the old rear crossmember off it was really clean inside, the outriggers were replaced but they weren't that bad either it was the previous owner that had bought new ones for it. But I will have a closer inspection before I decide, It was M D that I spoke to they are only about a mile from me. but he did say that he had done loads before and seemed to know what he was talking about.
Gonna try and get it all sorted beginning of January, then I can get a start on getting it rolling again.
 
border said:
When we cut the old rear crossmember off it was really clean inside, the outriggers were replaced but they weren't that bad either it was the previous owner that had bought new ones for it. But I will have a closer inspection before I decide, It was M D that I spoke to they are only about a mile from me. but he did say that he had done loads before and seemed to know what he was talking about.
Gonna try and get it all sorted beginning of January, then I can get a start on getting it rolling again.
Click to expand...

His son used to do all the collections and deliveries to us, so it was him I spoke to. I think it’s Martin that owns the place isn’t it? He said they do a few per year for it, so I thought it would be ok and a decent plan. It wasn’t until I started the chassis work that I gave up on the idea. My chassis was the original, so a 91-92 built item. How old is yours?

I pick my galv chassis up tomorrow, eventually, so will start the rebuild on Friday! Can’t wait, it’s been sat dormant for the last 4-5 weeks.
 
Get yerself a usb drain camera to poke int side before and after the sand blast to check the condition.
 
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