RobRainford
New Member
Take the transfer box off first then gearbox. Will save a lot of hassle. If you have any decent lifting gear it will save your back.
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
I did neither.
Take out all the bolts in the bell housing. Replace the two lowest bolts with lengths of threaded bar. Slide the box away from the engine.
It will rest on the threaded bar and a trolley jack giving you enough room to change the clutch. Then when you come to mate the box to the engine again, it will be easier.
Simples
Take out all the bolts in the bell housing. Replace the two lowest bolts with lengths of threaded bar. Slide the box away from the engine.
It will rest on the threaded bar and a trolley jack giving you enough room to change the clutch. Then when you come to mate the box to the engine again, it will be easier.
Simples
JonnyP
Well-Known Member
arienol
New Member
Good method, thanks for sharing that :clap2:
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Engine is technically easier IMO cos its not a #### to lift but transmission is better option because engine hydraulics etc etc makes more work overall.
Plus when transmission is out you can split transfer and gearbox and check gearbox output shaft and fit new cross drilled transfer input gear, new transfer output seals etc etc.
Plus when transmission is out you can split transfer and gearbox and check gearbox output shaft and fit new cross drilled transfer input gear, new transfer output seals etc etc.
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
The big crossmember only has to be removed if you need to take out the top bell housing bolt, as to access this you need to tilt the engine all the way back.
When putting mine back, I left the top bolt out so I can remove the gearbox a lot quicker next time.
When putting mine back, I left the top bolt out so I can remove the gearbox a lot quicker next time.
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Remove the console, remove the rubber membrane to transmission, then tilt engine back, careful with the viscous fan hitting the rad, then use long extension to get to the bolt from above whilst sat in the car.
MPfive
Active Member
Thank you. I fear this is a job on mine thats been looming for a while. Going to change master/slave first and hope its just this as theres no nasty noises or slipping of clutch. Just the biting point progressively getting lower
Another question, what did you use to line up the clutch plate?
Another question, what did you use to line up the clutch plate?
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
Socket wrapped in electrical tape. I'm advanced am me.
With the thread bar method, I found it lined up lovely as you don't have to worry about managing the weight. And I did it in the gravel drive
With the thread bar method, I found it lined up lovely as you don't have to worry about managing the weight. And I did it in the gravel drive
MPfive
Active Member
Spot on help,thank you
GreenHornet
Well-Known Member
No worries anything I can do
The advice from GreenHornet is the best by far. I did mine the hard way a while ago and opted for the "remove gearbox" method. Despite me and a mate, a pit, an engine lift and a few trolley jacks it was probably the hardest bloody job I've ever done on my landy and wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. Hope it goes well.
